OFFICIAL: NicoClub's Rally 240SX, by Finnish Fury Rallysport

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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Razi
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FlatBlackIan wrote:At long last she roared to life. At almost exactly Midnight central the new engine took its first breath. I spent hours banging my head against the was trying to figure out why it would start. I checked everything multiple times. I had good spark, I had fuel, I had compression, yet nothing. I checked and double checked my ignition timing, and spark quality. I tinkered with every single setting I could imagine to try to bring her to life, and nothing. As a last ditch effort I pulled the valve cover a second time to re check cam timing. For kicks I pulled the distributer cap. Over the last few days I have had the distributer out at least twice while working through the sync issue. Well, either the very first install I brain farted, or one of the later ones I wasn't careful enough, I managed to put the distributer in 180 degrees off. Spark was happening at the right time via timing light on the crank pulley, but not on the right stroke. I swapped it, and boom goes the dynamite. The rest is history.

Video of start, idle, and rev is uploading now. I will post it here in the morning. Or if you are antsy pantsy, it should auto post to the Finnish Fury Rallysport facebook page in the next 90 minutes or so. You can find that at http://www.facebook.com/finnishfury
Woot woot!
I didn't know you had a Facebook page, haha. Liked! :)
Looking forward to the video.


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gmac708
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Congratulations Ian!
It won't be long before you are back on the road...I mean dirt. :dblthumb:
Gord

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IanS
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Razi wrote: Woot woot!
I didn't know you had a Facebook page, haha. Liked! :)
Looking forward to the video.
Thanks Razi!!

Here is the video. The exhaust is so loud that it was clipping the microphone really bad, so the sound quality is terrible. I hope to get the tune worked over enough this evening to take her for a drive. I need to be careful though, I still have stock injectors in the car, and pump gas in the tank. Hopefully on Friday I can get the big injectors in, and swap in some E85........

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e63yXXSg ... e=youtu.be[/youtube]

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Ajax
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Congrats man! Mine is about to be taken out onto the streets again after a long and busy hibernation period (busy for me, not the car). I'm going to bring her up to visit you sometime this summer!

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IanS
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Ajax wrote:Congrats man! Mine is about to be taken out onto the streets again after a long and busy hibernation period (busy for me, not the car). I'm going to bring her up to visit you sometime this summer!
Sweet.

Well I put about 100 miles on the race car yesterday. With a little help from my friend Brian, we got a darn decent base tune all set up. Car pulls nicely even with it being super conservative, plus I set the rev limiter at 5000 rpm so......

Here's Brian plugging away at the laptop.

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Then, to sweeten the deal, my wife and I headed to my Moms house for dinner, and when we returned home, look what was waiting for me. JVAB suspension has arrived.

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Once the engine work is done, I will move on to modding the rear to accept the new gear. I want double sheer mount points top and bottom, and I need to raise the strut towers because they are so long. The other issue, is I may need to strap the rear suspension baja style to keep the axles from rubbing the subframe in full droop over jumps and such.

Also, for the lulz, here is the thrust arm I destroyed at LSPR. Going to hunt, that dog, deffinitely is not.

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IanS
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Update.....

Got the mounts on the front dampers, and got them in the car. They are freaking sweet x11.

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Can anyone say droop travel?

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Static ride height. I may lower it a little.

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Height reference. A pop can will fit between tire and fender.

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Testing how far the rear can sag before the axles bind, or control arms hit the body. This is as low as it will go.

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I will be remaking the rear strut towers to accomodate the new dampers. I would like to make use of as much travel as possible. At full sag, the axles touch the subframe. Why all this work you ask?

0ne new spring vs. both of the old springs. I will have just a little bit of travel. 16" long spring 150 lb inch. Woot.

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I also pulled the valve cover and cams to re-torque the head studs. Almost time to start making power. I drained the fuel tank too in preperation for E85.

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I am not looking forward to pulling, soldering, and looming the wiring harness. Its going to be a massive headache.

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Razi
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:rotfl
That suspension is awesome.

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SX APPEAL
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95 Maxima SE 5MT
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Well you're not going to be very popular with the hellaflush crowd... :rotfl

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IanS
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SX APPEAL wrote:Well you're not going to be very popular with the hellaflush crowd... :rotfl
In this house that is a compliment. Although I bet even most of them wouldn't pass up a ride in the passenger seat.


Picked up 10 gallons of E85 today. Just need to swap over the injectors and I can go nuts.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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So are you just going to swap injectors, re-scale your entire map based on that percentage (leaning it out), then richen it by 20% or so for the E85?

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IanS
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:So are you just going to swap injectors, re-scale your entire map based on that percentage (leaning it out), then richen it by 20% or so for the E85?
I can adjust the base injector pulse. Thats how I adjusted it last night. Its actually closer to 30%. So once I swap the injectors, I just need to cut it in half (new injectors are 100% larger or so.) My current tune is very conservative, so once break in is complete and the bugs are worked out I can bump the rev limiter up from 5000 to 7000 and start adding timing, and pulling fuel.

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IanS
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Ok, so. Getting the rear suspension in place. Started off by building new lower mounts. The stock S chassis knuckles use a single shear mount and a bushed strut bottom. The new dampers have Hiem joints top and bottom. I could have milled the knuckle to accept the eyelet, but I decided a double shear mount would be stronger. So I made these guys.

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They are 1.5" square tube. With a little help from Broc we welded them onto the factory mount location. We nipped the end off the stock bolt, then used a square washer to weld into the end for added strength.

We also preheated the knuckle for better weld penetration.

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Test fit.

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Droop droop droop.

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The camber arm wouldnt quite clear, so I had to clearance it a just a bit.

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Anybody have any stock S14 camber arms laying around? I would love to see if they clear. Otherwise I will box these, and build a set of custom adjustable ones down the road.

Starting work on the top mount. I got even more help, it was an all out party. Thanks everyone.

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Mount welded in place. Just need to gusset it for strength.

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Ok, now I am headed back out to get some more work done.

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IanS
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Boxed the cut up camber arms. These will turn into spares once I build a set of tubular arms.

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Drove the car to work today. Spent some time fixing the ride height, then I set up the alignment.

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I started raining on my way home and I discovered that the distributer cap/plug wires I have are due for replacement. I am loosing spark in a few different places. Luckily it made it home without dying completely. Better to find out now instead of at an event. Someone recomend me a good set of plug wires. Hmm, or should I just say screw it and wire up the SR20 coil on plug setup I have? So many choices.

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Razi
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Doing up SR20 coils sounds like it'd be a pain in the butt.
I say just buy some new wires.

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SX APPEAL
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like the boxed arms, good work

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IanS
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Razi wrote:Doing up SR20 coils sounds like it'd be a pain in the butt.
I say just buy some new wires.
The hardest part would be mounting them to the valve cover. But I agree, a good set of wires is the way to go for the moment.

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IanS
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Ok, so its been a while since I have updated. I have taking care of little bits and pieces here and there.

I got the Intake Air Temp sensor wired up, and tuned in. The LEM G2 uses IAT for fuel table and ign table corrections. This should help protect the engine in the event of an over temp condition.

I also finished up the rear strut mounts, and re painted that portion of the interior.

I found another issue though. I have top feed injectors and no rail. I found top feed rails on ebay for $120, but Im not sure I want to go that route. Im thinking I would rather find a set of SR20 injectors, or side feed STI injectors. Anyone have a set of either laying around they want to sell me?

Also, I need an upper timing chain guide. The one that goes on top of the head. Anyone have one laying around?

So many other little projects going on with the car right now, will update with pictures soon.

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SX APPEAL
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I have that guide, I've never bothered to put in back in any of my motors, and haven't had a problem, but its yours if you want it. FREE.99

Also for that fuel rail, you might look through the classifieds on here and some other forums, I've seen almost new JGY and Greddy rails go for $100ish, just a thought.

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Razi
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If you only need 370cc injectors, why not take some off of a Q45 from the junkyard?

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IanS
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SX APPEAL wrote:I have that guide, I've never bothered to put in back in any of my motors, and haven't had a problem, but its yours if you want it. FREE.99

Also for that fuel rail, you might look through the classifieds on here and some other forums, I've seen almost new JGY and Greddy rails go for $100ish, just a thought.
Well, i didn't think I would need it, but i found knicks on the VC that are from chain slap. This after 200 miles of break in driving. Its cheap insurance. How much you want for shipping? I have seen the rails, but I dont like shinny. Im also not sure about the injectors I have. They may need a rebjild. I am exploring other options.

Razi wrote:If you only need 370cc injectors, why not take some off of a Q45 from the junkyard?
Didn't know that was aan option. 370 is my minimum. Will look into that. Thanks.

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Razi
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They're a pain to get to though, haha.
Q45 has a crazy manifold over it all.

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SX APPEAL
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Actually just saw a set of SR 370's in the classifieds, didn't check the price though, shouldn't be too extreme. As for the chain guide, just give me your shipping info, I'll get it sent out on monday and if it costs more than a couple bucks I'll let you know, otherwise don't worry about it.

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IanS
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Ok, we have a problem.

Took the car out for a little more break in driving, ended up coming home on a flat bed.

Once the car has spent some time at operating temperature, I start loosing crank reference. A little after that, it goes away completely and the engine stalls. I discovered this after making it about 15 miles from home.

While waiting for the tow truck, the engine cooled and I was able to start her up. Luckily I had plenty of time to play with the laptop, and figure out exactly why the engine wouldn't run, at least from a digital standpoint.

The problem is with Trigger 2.

Today I was able to warm the car up, as it started to misfire from the signal flaking out, I poured cold water over the base of the distributer. By manually cooling the dizzy, I can bring the signal back. The idle smooths, and everything is dandy until the distributer heat soaks again, and the circle starts over.

Looks like the sensor is failing.

So, who wants to sell me a distributer?

In other news, we've been plugging away at other little projects. Barring any crazy issues, the car WILL be ready for Nemadji Trail Rally 1 on June 23rd.

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Razi
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It's always the most random stuff that goes wrong.
I'd offer to try and hunt down a distributor at the junkyard but KA-DEs are getting hard to find at the junkyard. :(

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DeXteR
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I've got a dizzy on my vert that I won't be needing anytime soon. Give me a call if you need it. I can ship it Monday at the latest.

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IanS
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DeXteR wrote:I've got a dizzy on my vert that I won't be needing anytime soon. Give me a call if you need it. I can ship it Monday at the latest.
Found a guy on Zilvia with 2 distributers for sale. I bought both, and he should be shipping them today. In the meantime, I am going to dissasemble the three I have, and attempt to make a working one. Just for fun.

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Ajax
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FlatBlackIan wrote: In the meantime, I am going to dissasemble the three I have, and attempt to make a working one. Just for fun.
This is why I like you Ian :mike

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IanS
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Ajax wrote:
FlatBlackIan wrote: In the meantime, I am going to dissasemble the three I have, and attempt to make a working one. Just for fun.
This is why I like you Ian :mike
Here you go dave, this one's for you.

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IanS
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So there was supposed to be a link in the above post. It apparently didn't show up. This morning I noticed and made a post quoting it, and adding the link. That whole post failed to show up. WTH. Lets try again.

ever-wonder-whats-inside-your-distribut ... 58976.html

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IanS
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Since I didn't get my fill of taking apart stuff with little pieces with the distributers, I decided to tackle another project.

Since I had an SOHC in the car prior, I had an SOHC cluster. Now I am sure most of you know that the SOHC tach will not work with the DOHC motor. Now the reasoning for this has to do with the ECU as it sends the signal to the tach. Now it just so happens that the Link sends the same style signal as the DOHC ECU, so since the swap, the tach has not worked.

Time to fix that.

Luckily the parts car had a DOHC in it at one point so I decided to rob the cluster out of that. Now a cluster swap would have been easy enough, but like I said, I was iching for more little tiny pieces....

The parts car is an Auto and I feel like someone once told me that the Auto speedometers wont work with a Manual car. Either way, the SOHC speedo goes 5 mph higher, and it would give me a reason to pull the odo. I spent some time, and scavenged the speedo and odo out of the SOHC cluster.

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Since this is a new motor, I decided to roll back the odo so I can know exactly how many miles I put on.

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Start off by pushing the little clips and removing the lense. Then do the same and remove the bezel.

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The back side.

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These 4 screws attach the speedo to the housing, as well as transmit the signal. There is also a small harness connecting the speedo to the odo drive.

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Speedo removed.

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Parts car had low miles. Too bad the motor popped. The shell is clean, and it shall become a race car some day.

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2 screws on the back remove the whole trip and odo assembly.

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2 more screws on the back of the odo seperate the drive and the odo base. This allows the odo itself to be replaced.

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All back together. Its nice to have a working tach, and the redline is higher too.

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Why does it keep deleting the last line of my posts?

?


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