OFFICIAL: NicoClub's Rally 240SX, by Finnish Fury Rallysport

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
User avatar
IanS
Posts: 10090
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

Lots of POR 15 is headed my way.



I spent the night thinking about wheel choices. I need something strong and light, but also affordable. I will be running 15" wheels, so I may just find a couple sets of 7 spoke SE wheels, or even some teardrops. What do you guys think? I would love to run a set of Enkie 92 meshies, but they are too spendy.


User avatar
S13Teddy
Posts: 5138
Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2007 4:53 pm
Car: R32 Skyline, S13
Contact:

Post

Sweeeeeet.

Brandon1605
Posts: 128
Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2009 3:07 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx (S13)

Post

I can trade you straight up for a set of old Maxima wheels (similiar to tear drops).

silviaslider37
Posts: 133
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2008 6:44 pm
Car: 92 240 sx hatch(rip)92 hatch sr'd(rip) 93 coupe(hopeful 2 stay)

Post

ive always had the idea of taking a 240sx hatch and rallying the heck out of it. cant wait to see more

93240cooool
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Nov 05, 2008 5:56 pm
Car: 1993 240sx

Post

if you didnt live so far away i would trade you my se's lol.

looks good so far, looks like your gonna have lot's of fun.


User avatar
MagikDragon
Posts: 2385
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 3:48 pm
Car: 1991 240SX, 1992 240SX, 1986 MB 190E 2.3-16
Location: Danbury, CT
Contact:

Post

get a set of fox air shocks and be happy...

User avatar
IanS
Posts: 10090
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

POR will be here Monday.

Got some more of the sound deadening removed today, but still not all. I hope to finish it off tomorrow. With that finished, I will start stripping the engine bay, and pulling the steering rack so I can de-power it.

fastass
Posts: 364
Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2009 8:51 am
Car: 95 240sx

Post

FlatBlackIan wrote:My Plans

Since Im sure many of you will ask, Im going to lay out my plans right away.

This car is being prepared to run in the Rally-America performance rally series. I will mainly be competing in the Midwest events.

I am building the car to fit into Group 2. This means a low displacement 4 cylinder engine, driving only 2 wheels.

Right now, a cage is first on the list. Once that is done, I will be looking for a set of FIA spec seats, and an engine. For the engine, I intend to run an NA SR20DE.

The suspension is still up in the air. The control arms will remain stock, but I have to find a set of coilovers to fit my needs. Something soft enough to suck up major rocks, and give me decent grip on gravel, while stiff enough to stay off the bump stops over jumps, crests, kicks, and the like. Im looking at Hotbits, or possibly Leda's.

Thats it for tonight.

Its in my profile.
i

i would like the rims..

User avatar
S13k
Posts: 431
Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2008 8:24 pm
Car: Mazda miata 99 NB
Nissan 240sx 91 s13

Post

FlatBlackIan wrote:I spent the night thinking about wheel choices. I need something strong and light, but also affordable. I will be running 15" wheels, so I may just find a couple sets of 7 spoke SE wheels, or even some teardrops. What do you guys think? I would love to run a set of Enkie 92 meshies, but they are too spendy.
I would go with some deep dish steelies and wrap them up with some off road tires. affordable right?

User avatar
Razi
Posts: 28681
Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:52 am
Car: Moo

Post

I wish you were closer Ian, I have some 7 spoke SEs that I don't need any longer.

How's your interior going to look? Completely stripped with just a dash and a seat?

I can't wait to see this project grow.

User avatar
IanS
Posts: 10090
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

S13k wrote:
I would go with some deep dish steelies and wrap them up with some off road tires. affordable right?
Bad idea. Steelies bend too easily, they end up looking like eggs after 20 stage miles.

As for tires, I will most likely be running these (Michlins)



Or a Hankook equivalent.
Razi wrote:
How's your interior going to look? Completely stripped with just a dash and a seat?

I can't wait to see this project grow.
That plus a cage, some fire extinguishers, saftey triangles, and a rally computer is all that will be in the car.

User avatar
Razi
Posts: 28681
Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:52 am
Car: Moo

Post

Badass. <3

I'll be checking back often.

User avatar
IanS
Posts: 10090
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

Thanks for all the compliments guys. Im at the bottom end of a very long build process, and Im going to need all the kind words I can get.

User avatar
keith0486
Posts: 2612
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 1:44 pm

Post

sick build i hope to see some pics of you like this when its all done


the_momo
Posts: 730
Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2005 7:49 pm
Car: 1997 VW Golf K2 (His)/ 2001 Black Lexus IS300 (Hers)
Contact:

Post

FlatBlackIan wrote:
Its a good idea in theory, but not a viable one for me. For my class, all suspension mounting points must remain in the factory postions. No pushrod, rosebud, or remote systems. Not to mention the cost. Im going for a budget build. The most important thing to me, is getting the car log booked, and competition ready.

The wheels aren't for sale just yet guys. I dont even know what shape they are in. I wouldnt want to sell someone a bent to hell wheel.
Thats a bummer, but makes perfectly good sense. The cost and ease of maintenance was one of the things that turned me on to this idea. The only real cost would be the springs and dampers, and some rod ends, but those could be had from mcmaster carr rather cheaply.

Anyhow, I am amxious to see the outcome, if I lived closer, and werent moving farther away, Id be down for some wrench time on this for sure.

I do wonder, tho, how much it would cost to get a dms (drummond) inverted type coil damper for something like this. I know they are rather popular in the subaru rally crowd and are super strong. I would imagine rather expensive tho.

User avatar
baron_harkkonen
Posts: 322
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 3:42 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX, 2005 Honda Civic

Post

Keep up the good work!!!! I like it.

User avatar
IanS
Posts: 10090
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

the_momo wrote:
Thats a bummer, but makes perfectly good sense. The cost and ease of maintenance was one of the things that turned me on to this idea. The only real cost would be the springs and dampers, and some rod ends, but those could be had from mcmaster carr rather cheaply.

Anyhow, I am amxious to see the outcome, if I lived closer, and werent moving farther away, Id be down for some wrench time on this for sure.

I do wonder, tho, how much it would cost to get a dms (drummond) inverted type coil damper for something like this. I know they are rather popular in the subaru rally crowd and are super strong. I would imagine rather expensive tho.
I have considered DMS, they are very commonplace on rally cars. That being said, they are way way way outside my budget. I just cant afford to drop 1/4 of my budget on a set of coils.

Im leaning more and more towards custom valved dampers.

Well, I got some more work done this evening, nothing too exciting.

I got the rest of the sound deadening torn out. Man I hate that stuff.



I also pulled the glass sunroof out. Its for sale if anyone wants it.



I also pulled the rear spoiler off. SUPRISE, rust holes. Guess Im going to have to get creative with the welder.



Popped the rear wiper arm off.



And out came the motor.



Then I moved on to the doors.

I pulled the panels off



Look at all that wiring. Power locks, windows, mirrors, and speakers.



Wiring I removed from the doors alone. I stripped everything down, so all thats left is the power window stuff.



Rally rules state that the steering wheel lock must be removed/disabled.

Drilling out the single use screws.



Ignition out.



The locking mechanism.



I took the grinder to the locking tab, and it is no more. Pity I failed to snap a picture. I reinstalled it back in the car. No more lock.

And finally before calling it a night, I pulled the steering rack out. Hopefully next week I will have a chance to disassemble the rack, remove all the lines, and fully de-power it.



Thats it for tonight. I really need to get the rust fixed, and get an engine and cage in there.

User avatar
Ajax
Posts: 1643
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 3:16 pm
Car: 1991 240sx SE
2010 Mazda 5

Post

I might be interested in the sunroof, if its got good rubber- both of mine are torn up. We'll talk later.

the_momo
Posts: 730
Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2005 7:49 pm
Car: 1997 VW Golf K2 (His)/ 2001 Black Lexus IS300 (Hers)
Contact:

Post

Good stuff man, im enjoying this thread :D

Also, I just realized the initials of your screen name are FBI.....lol

User avatar
mattblancarte
Posts: 1978
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:14 pm
Car: 2005 BMW M3 Comp. Coupe

Post

I hope you plan on installing a video mount in this car. I want to see some first-person rally action!

User avatar
IanS
Posts: 10090
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

Ajax wrote:I might be interested in the sunroof, if its got good rubber- both of mine are torn up. We'll talk later.
IIRC its in good shape. Tell you what, I will trade it for a set of 7 spoke SE wheels.

I started pulling apart the steering rack, but didnt get very far, as I failed to grab my giant wrenches.

User avatar
Razi
Posts: 28681
Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:52 am
Car: Moo

Post

What's your plans for the suspension arms?Are you going to keep them stock or upgrade to something else?

User avatar
IanS
Posts: 10090
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

Razi wrote:What's your plans for the suspension arms?Are you going to keep them stock or upgrade to something else?
Lightweight aluminum arms would be nice, but not worth it for me. Control arms get bent, alot. I would rather they were cheap, so I dodnt feel so bad about it. Also, upgraded control arms tend to be stronger than stock, this means instead of the arm bending, I could potentially do damage to the subframes. Its easy to swap out a control arm or 2 during a 45 min service, but a subframe is a little more work. Also, most aftermarket arms will tend to snap rather then bend. If I smack something real good, I would like to retain the ability of limping the car back to service.

User avatar
Bumnah
Posts: 2042
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 1:50 am
Car: 1992 240SX, black. Bone stock.
Contact:

Post

Your thread is full of potential, I hope it delivers.

User avatar
Razi
Posts: 28681
Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:52 am
Car: Moo

Post

FlatBlackIan wrote:
Lightweight aluminum arms would be nice, but not worth it for me. Control arms get bent, alot. I would rather they were cheap, so I dodnt feel so bad about it. Also, upgraded control arms tend to be stronger than stock, this means instead of the arm bending, I could potentially do damage to the subframes. Its easy to swap out a control arm or 2 during a 45 min service, but a subframe is a little more work. Also, most aftermarket arms will tend to snap rather then bend. If I smack something real good, I would like to retain the ability of limping the car back to service.
Makes sense, I was worried with all the rough terrain, that the subframe might get bent instead of the arms as you've mentioned.

Can't wait to see it in action.

User avatar
IanS
Posts: 10090
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

Razi wrote:Makes sense, I was worried with all the rough terrain, that the subframe might get bent instead of the arms as you've mentioned.

Can't wait to see it in action.
I will be reinforcing the front sub frame, 1 for strength reasons, and secondly, because it will be one of the mounting points for the skid plate. The rear subframes are pretty beefy, Im not worried about it unless I really whack something, (knocks on wood).

Today I got started removing the power from my power steering rack. I used a box on the floor so as not to make a giant mess of the work bench.



First things first, I pulled the supply, return, and crossover lines off the rack.





Then I pulled the bellows boots of to expose the inner tie rods, and the rack piston.



Then I pulled the cap off the steering shaft. I was careful not to damge the bearing in the cap.





Then I pulled the rear cap to remove the pressure relieve valve.





At this point I called it a day. I failed to bring home the proper tools to remove the inner tie rods, and the end cap from the rack. Without them I cannot dissasemble the rack further, and it will have to wait for another day.

User avatar
IanS
Posts: 10090
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

Man, Ive kinda been slacking on the updateage.

I got the steering rack torn down the rest of the way.

1 inner tie rod off.



And the other.



End cap removed.



The actual rack piston removed. One of these days I will get around to machining the fluid seals so the rack can slide freely while retaining semi rigid bushings.



I got my order of POR 15, plus I picked up some bug and tar remover to help get up a little more of the stuff in the interior



Before I can get to cleaning though, I need to pull the wiring out.



Body wiring harness, check.





I decided to also pull the steering column, as it was no longer connected to anything. This way I wont run my back into it anymore. That thing is sharp.

First you see it.



Then you dont.



All the work made me hungry. MMMM Juicy twists and Mountain Dew.





Back to work, yuck, bug and tar remover looks like poop.





Thats better. Still not perfect, but hey, its good enough for the girls I go out with.



Now its time to tackle the dust. Im guessing this car has seen a dirt road before.

Before



After









Yuck, look at that water. 18 years of dust in a bucket.



Finally moving out of the interior. Its time to give the engine bay the same treatment.

Started by pulling the fender liners.



Not much left of the one.



Look, hidden treasure, I mean mud.



then I pulled the bumper cover. Man that thing is heavy considering its just a cover.



Then the fenders, check the mud on the floor, icky.



She looks kind of sad.



Engine bay wiring harness, check.



While I was working on the wiring, Gage and John took it upon themselves to remove the rusty battery tray.



Drilled the spot welds for the air box bracket, wont be needing that.



A little surface rust under that batter tray, stupid acid. Nothing a little POR 15 cant handle.



With the wiring out, I went to town on the brake lines. This car had ABS, and all the lines need to be re run. All for the better, it was a fuster cluck anyway.

So much less clutter.



Look at all that junk.



After a little simple green and a quick scrub down. Its all nice a good that the previous owner wanted to paint the engine bay, I just wish he had done a better job. In a lot of places the paint is just falling off.



Before calling it a night, I decided to put the front bumper on a diet.



I pulled the front lip and all the associated brackets, along with the grids that fill the DRL holes. Then I pulled the license plate frame retainers. Then I discovered the support for the top of the cover. For some odd reason, Nissan wanted to make sure the center of the bumper cover was the strongest part of the car. It has no structural value, all it does is keep the center of the cover from sagging. I figure this cover will get trashed sooner rather than later anyway, so out it went.

The only things Im keeping are the brackets that hold the cover on the car, and the foam support.



Thats it for now. I hope to get some more done today.

User avatar
mattblancarte
Posts: 1978
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:14 pm
Car: 2005 BMW M3 Comp. Coupe

Post

Gotta love POR-15 products. I went with them when I painted my cage. The only complaint I have is that their engine enamel doesn't mix well at all, but it's ridiculously proficient at keeping rust at bay.

Words can't describe how handy Metal Ready is, too. While getting my gym set up, my iron weight plates were all rusted. It was nothing some good-old steel wool and Metal Ready couldn't handle.

Looking forward to more updates.

User avatar
Bumnah
Posts: 2042
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 1:50 am
Car: 1992 240SX, black. Bone stock.
Contact:

Post

This is a good thread

User avatar
Tyler
Posts: 1563
Joined: Sat Dec 23, 2006 7:22 pm
Car: 1989 240sx HB/1992 240sx coupe/1998 s14

Post

may i ask why you dont want power steering?


Return to “240sx General Discussion”