OFFICIAL: NicoClub's Rally 240SX, by Finnish Fury Rallysport

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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IanS
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She wont rev correctly without a TPS, but you get the idea.

Stupid phone wont upload to youtube properly, and I cannot get the fbvideo bbcode to work properly so y'all are just going to have to follow the link to fb if you want to see/hear the ITBs!

KA24DE ITBs first startup
Last edited by IanS on Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.


danshaz82
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that launch control, those ITBs, that band saw! everything is so awesome. id love to see it in person again soon. last time i saw it was omaha haha

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IanS
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danshaz82 wrote:that launch control, those ITBs, that band saw! everything is so awesome. id love to see it in person again soon. last time i saw it was omaha haha
She is a whole other monster now lol. Come out to LSPR this year. Its not that far lol. Lots of Chi town folk make the long trek north.

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IanS
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Ran into my first major snag with the ITBs setup today.

The runners have a very slight offset to them. I figured the couplers could easily make the transition. Well, I was correct, but there is another problem. With the couplers pushed all the way on, and the ITBs as close as possible to the runners, the couplers put enough stress on the throttle stack to cause binding in the butterflies. This makes the throttle sticky with the hose clamps tight.

I figured, not a big deal, there is space, I will just pull the throttle stack away from the runners, extending the couplers. Well, It works, but with the engine idling, all the couplers collapse. Its not really an issue at idle, but I fear it could easily get worse, especially with the added heat of competition, and many other factors. Time to find a new set of heavier duty couplers.

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IanS
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Part of the in-car video is finally up. Its just one stage, but its something. Im going to embed it here, but I suggest watching it directly on youtube, as it is in HD, and the embed quality sucks.

Direct link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwXzYur2rz4

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwXzYur2rz4[/youtube]

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Razi
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Damn that's awesome.
Great camera angle.
Car sounds sweeeeet.

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IanS
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Razi wrote: Car sounds sweeeeet.
Don't say that lol. It sounded awful. The flat timing at the top made her sound like someone was strangling her.

With lots o timing and the ITBs, then it will sound sweet.

danshaz82
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FlatBlackIan wrote:
With lots o timing and the ITBs, then it will sound sweet.
this. im excited to hear that. also, if you have time, you should do a write up on the ITBs

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IanS
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Just paid my entry fee for Ojibwe Forest Rally.

98 Stage miles in a single day. This will be more of a marathon then a sprint. I need to start working out on myself as much as the car.

My left shoulder is weak and prone to getting soar after an event. With nearly 100 miles at 10/10s over just a day, I WILL wear myself out, and if I am out of shape, I WILL make mistakes. Time to not only try to increase my cardio, but also my shoulder strength.

Anyone know any good exercises to boost shoulder strength? My left shoulder was pulled out of its socket a few years ago, and its never been the same. Never went to the doctor, so I have no idea what kind of permanent damage was done.....

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SX APPEAL
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Pull-ups, curls (solid bar works better than dumb bells IMO) shrugs, more pull-ups, rows. When you do pull-ups, don't just try to get your chin to the bar, try to pull all the way up to where you're almost touching your chest with your fists (palms facing inward) that will really engage your back muscles.

Get one of these, they're like $20 at walmart

Image

Good luck :dblthumb:

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Ajax
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SX APPEAL wrote: Image
I have one of these in my office for whenever I get pissed at something. I do lots of pull-ups.
I'd also recommend low-speed shoulder swings (not a technical term- don't know what else to call them)- using low weight dumbbells, start with hands at sides, slowly raise the arms to the front or sides without bending the elbows. hold at the top for a few-10 seconds(I sometimes go all the way over the head, sometimes just straight in front of me), then slowly release down. I did these to prep for holding a 15lb torch through a long scene in an opera.
I'm finally heading back to the gym today after a long string of shows and will most likely be using 10lb weights for these (at my best, I've used 20lbs, but what you're looking for is smooth control and endurance).
Good luck man.

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Another good variation on that ^ exercise is to bring the weights up in front until your arms are parallel to the ground (elbows straight) then swing your arms to the sides, still holding them parallel to the ground, then back to the front, then finally raising them all the way above your head. This is one rep, do ten to twelve reps in a set with 5-10lb dumb bells. My high school weightlifting coach called them "dirty dozens" lol.

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Ajax
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That's awesome- I'll have to give that a try^^

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IanS
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Ok ok, back on topic. Going to build a pull up bar tomorrow.

I have a set of 4 ply silicone couplers on order. Tracking says they will be here on Friday. Hope to do a test drive to check how much re-tuning will be required once they are on. Saturday is my wife and I's anniversary, so I don't foresee getting too much work done this weekend. Next weekend is NT 2, so I will be busy with that. Then it will be buckle down time to get the ITBs properly sorted.

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Ajax
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Happy Anniversary!!!

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IanS
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Razi
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WOT pull sounds niiiice.

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DeXteR
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It should sound even better in about a week...

Image

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IanS
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Installed some velocity stacks last night tweaked the tune, and went for a rip. The car hustles to triple digit speeds like never before. As in it could barely break 100 before. And I still have no timing. Video to come.

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Driftnaut
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Things are sweet! Id love to run a set on a street car

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IanS
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Big picture update.

My home made velocity stacks. I used a shop press to flare chunks of exhaust pipe. I used a few different things to get the trumpet shape.

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Installed on the engine. Here they are 3 1/4" long, I ended up cutting them down.

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First full throttle pull to the 7000 rpm redline. still need to add more timing near the top end, but she pulls HARD compared to the stock manifold with the same timing map and similar AFRs.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCSzMnm0 ... ture=g-upl[/youtube]

After that drive we cut an inch off the trumpets to make space to build an airbox.

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Time to fab an air box. Im just winging it. I may end up throwing it all away, who knows how it will turn out. Go easy on me, it looks ghetto now, but hopefully will come together.

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Start simple.

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Flange tacked to the trumpets.

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Expanding. Yes it looks goofy, but I have my reasons.

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Starting to come together.

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Since there is no room to go up, I had to go down and forward. I opened a lot of space by removing the stock manifold, but now I am filling it back up.

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IanS
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The failboat sails shortly lol.

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Ok, its starting to look like something.

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Im trying to make it as large as possible while still allowing room for the engine to shift back and forth.

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Im undecided on how to finish the box once all sides are on. I could have the whole box tigged so it would be fully welding. This may cause too much warpage though, I plan to consult someone with more knowledge then myself on the subject and see what he thinks. I was thinking about adding a few more welds, then covering the box with fiberglass to seal and add strength. Decisions decisions.

I left off there as I ran out of sheet metal, moved on to other projects.

Received a package in the mail from Dexter. Finally time to get rid of the stock exhaust manifold. With the overheating issues I was having at Nemadji, I had decided to try to bring underhood temps down. If I had a stock heat shield, I would have put it on, but I think this will work better. Broc and I spent a few hours wrapping the header I got from Dexter.

This should bring down the temps under the hood, as well as increase power a little bit.

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The center section is double wrapped because I had some left over, and didn't want it to go to waste.

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Installed back on the engine. I can't wait to hear and feel it once the air box is done.

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Thats it for today. Hope to finish the airbox soon.

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Razi
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Velocity stacks look sweet!

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SX APPEAL
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I'm a fan of everything that just happened there^

and that header will actually increase power more than you'd think. Its the same style as the one I had on my S13 a few years ago. Was actually quite surprised at the difference considering I got it just for looks at the time.

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hemifan87
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that has to be the best build thread I have ever read great job to all involved makes me want to do it to my 200sx lol

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kenno470
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Looking good Ian. Hope I get to see this car someday. Sorry we won't get to see you at the Peak.

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SX APPEAL
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Same X2. And as long as you make it to 100AW next Feb I will! Gotta know though, whats the purpose of the airbox? I figured you would just put filters on each runner and go with it. Does it have something to do with heat shielding, or are there flow dynamics outside the understanding of a Rolla, MO garage scrub involved there?

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IanS
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SX APPEAL wrote:Same X2. And as long as you make it to 100AW next Feb I will! Gotta know though, whats the purpose of the airbox? I figured you would just put filters on each runner and go with it. Does it have something to do with heat shielding, or are there flow dynamics outside the understanding of a Rolla, MO garage scrub involved there?
Well there are a few reasons. First being inlet temp control. Rally stages can be hot, and engine bay temps tend to get pretty high. Another big thing to worry about is water. With just a filter, any large water splashes run the risk of hydrolocking the engine, or bending a rod. The box will isolate the throttle bodies, so if I suck water, it doesn't go straight into the engine. There are also issues with smaller filters clogging because of lack of surface area. They tend to pack with dust, limiting power. The box also gives me a place to put the IAT sensor, and valve cover breather.
hemifan87 wrote:that has to be the best build thread I have ever read great job to all involved makes me want to do it to my 200sx lol
Thanks!!
kenno470 wrote:Looking good Ian. Hope I get to see this car someday. Sorry we won't get to see you at the Peak.


Indeed. The postponement really screwed things up. Its just not great timing with Ojibwe Forest Rally the very next weekend.

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RallyB13
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FlatBlackIan wrote:Well there are a few reasons. First being inlet temp control. Rally stages can be hot, and engine bay temps tend to get pretty high. Another big thing to worry about is water. With just a filter, any large water splashes run the risk of hydrolocking the engine, or bending a rod. The box will isolate the throttle bodies, so if I suck water, it doesn't go straight into the engine. There are also issues with smaller filters clogging because of lack of surface area. They tend to pack with dust, limiting power. The box also gives me a place to put the IAT sensor, and valve cover breather.
I was shocked at how hot the engine bay got in my Sentra at Nemadji, and I already had my exhaust heat wrapped. The skidplate under the engine has a lot to do with limiting air flow. I really want to find an evo-style hood vent to allow air to flow better, but I may just shim up the hood hinges a little before OFR to allow more heat to escape that way.

Having hydrolocked an SR20 in the past, I tend to be a little paranoid about doing it again. But with the underhood temps so high I know I'm robbing myself of power with the "short ram" style intake. Gotta find a proper way to do a protective liner (I tore out both my finder liners on the transit to the first at Nemadji) and swap to a CAI. Probably a winter project along with rebuilding the second engine (so I'm not running a 180K old stock longblock)

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IanS
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RallyB13 wrote:
FlatBlackIan wrote:Well there are a few reasons. First being inlet temp control. Rally stages can be hot, and engine bay temps tend to get pretty high. Another big thing to worry about is water. With just a filter, any large water splashes run the risk of hydrolocking the engine, or bending a rod. The box will isolate the throttle bodies, so if I suck water, it doesn't go straight into the engine. There are also issues with smaller filters clogging because of lack of surface area. They tend to pack with dust, limiting power. The box also gives me a place to put the IAT sensor, and valve cover breather.
I was shocked at how hot the engine bay got in my Sentra at Nemadji, and I already had my exhaust heat wrapped. The skidplate under the engine has a lot to do with limiting air flow. I really want to find an evo-style hood vent to allow air to flow better, but I may just shim up the hood hinges a little before OFR to allow more heat to escape that way.

Having hydrolocked an SR20 in the past, I tend to be a little paranoid about doing it again. But with the underhood temps so high I know I'm robbing myself of power with the "short ram" style intake. Gotta find a proper way to do a protective liner (I tore out both my finder liners on the transit to the first at Nemadji) and swap to a CAI. Probably a winter project along with rebuilding the second engine (so I'm not running a 180K old stock longblock)
Indeed. My underhood temps actually stayed at an exceptable level. They were high, but not excessive. I believe my cooling problem is many fold. First, the hole I cut in the hood works well for venting heat at low speeds, but because the back of the hole is higher then the front, I believe that as speeds increase, airflow is being forced into the engine bay. Air in good right? Well, if Im shoving air into the engine bay, pressure is going to increase. More pressure inside the bay means less air flowing through the radiator, instead of going around. Last night Broc and Dustin fabbed up a flap for the vent. If it goes to plan, it should generate a low pressure area above the vent, helping air to be sucked out of the engine bay, thereby increasing flow through the radiator.

Secondly, when I installed the radiator, sans A/C condenser, it left gaps at the top and sides of the radiator. I believe this allowed some air to go around the radiator and into the engine bay. I have already sealed the top, now just need to do the sides some how.

Lastly would be the tuning. I noticed on the first stage at Nemadji that my high RPM A/Frs were unhealthily lean. 13:1 is ok for short stints, but on stage I think its too much. I babied it back, and added some fuel to the map at service, and I was able to push harder on stages 3 and 4.

Hopefully remedying all of these issues will solve my cooling problems, and I can go buck wild at OFR.

As for CAI, I may build one down the road, but for the moment I plan to suck my "hopefully" not too hot engine bay air.


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