I am wondering if anyone has tried the NTD throttle controller offered by versaspeed for the versa, sentra, and cube in our jukes. I have one I took out of my versa before trading it in that I was thinking of trying to install. Was wondering if it would work with no problems. I have emailed bob at versaspeed but he said he was unsure if it would or not.

Thanks for any help you can give

No, but I would be interested to know if it works.

Bob said that as long as connector is the same it should work no problem. I am planning on trying it out this weekend. Just wanted to check and see if anybody else has tried it out and knows for sure it works. Since I have the S model I do not have the icon system. I am coming from a versa and the accelerator pedal seems much more sensitive then the versa. So i am wanting to find something to turn down the sensitivity, especially since the first tank was at 24mpg, which hurt since i was coming from a versa that i got 36mpg in. I know that the eco mode on the throttle controller really helped turn down the sensitivity in the versa. I will post this weekend and let all know if it worked or not.

Would be cool to know. Let us know how this turns out.

Beancooker wrote:Would be cool to know. Let us know how this turns out.

Actually just put it in this morning. So far is working fine. I have driven it bout 30-40 miles for bout hr to hr and half and have seen no problems. It is definitely more responsive to the juke than it was to the versa, In the fact that I drove the versa in ec5 all the time and with the juke ec5 is so slow that i will probably be using it in ec3. sp7 is definitely fun (warning: don't do this if you are trying to save gas) lol. It is an awesome devise and i loved it in the versa and seems i will still love it in the juke. I will be sure to let you all know if i run across any problems with it in the next couple of weeks.

So it has been 2 weeks now and it is still working great. The only problem I have seen is that with it plugged in to the OBD 2 port for power it sometimes does not shut off and reset when the car is shut off. It is not a big problem because it is easily solved by turning the key in on position (not started) and turning back off. It is not all the time that this happens and don't understand why it does happen. I do not have this problem with the scanguage 2 (which is also plugged in the OBD 2 port). I do have these items plugged in via a OBD2 splitter so both can be plugged in at once.

Other than that problem it is working great. I have been using it on EC4 and have been getting between 30-33 mpg the last 2 weeks (which is only about 3 fills). But is definitely better than the 24 I got on my first tank.

Wow, 30-33? That's a lot better than the 25-27 that I have been getting.

GRey1 wrote:Wow, 30-33? That's a lot better than the 25-27 that I have been getting.

Well I also have the FWD not an AWD so that makes a little bit of difference there. But 30-33 is not too bad. I am still not satisfied yet since I was getting 34-36 in my Versa. hope to get this close pretty soon.

30-33 is considered really good in my book considering the Versa is 120 hp vs 190 hp Juke. Should set your expectations lower.

Well I also had the fujita Cai which according to their site adds 15%-20% more HP putting it to about 140hp. Also I got 34-36 with AC off and windows up. I am still riding with AC in the Juke and getting 30-33. So is pretty good and will be better when I turn off AC.

LOL, don't believe what you see on websites. CAI's does not add 15-20% more hp on any car, I'm the "before and after dyno sheets" guy. Nonetheless, still getting great mileage with the controller.

Yeah, I was outted by the kid that looks scarily just like his avatar.

This device seems awesome! I wonder if it could work with the Murano at all.

from what bob at versaspeed was saying is that as long as it will plug in to the accelerator pedal then should work no problem. so far it holds true as it works on versa, cube, sentra, and now the juke. still running good on my juke and i've been getting around 34 - 35mpg since the warmer weather has showed back up.

if you want you can post up a pic of the wire connector going to the accelerator pedal in your murano and i can compare it to the connector in my juke and we can determine if it will fit or not. ill try to remember to get a pic of the connector in my juke tomorrow as well.

Would it be behind the pedal? Or somewhere near the OBD plug? (Sorry, I'm not really sure where to look.)

Just filled up today on my way home from work and got 35.044MPG on my last tank. Much happier with the fuel mileage on the Juke from when I bought it. Only other mod I've done since then that might effect the MPG was install a Stillen axle-back exhaust.

Here are a couple shots of the connector. This is actually the connector on the throttle controller but it is the same as the one that is connected to the accelerator pedal stock. The connector should be on the wire harness that connects directly to the pedal. If you look at the picture below you see the pedal and if you follow it up you will see the wire harness at the top of the part of the pedal that connects to the metal bracket.

Thank you anthony! Congrats on 35mpg!

Hey all. I just wanted to share my stop at the pumps earlier today.



comes out to a whopping 39.8MPG. Doubt this will ever happen again. Figure all conditions were just right. But I will be shooting for the 40MPG mark. This is better then I had ever gotten the Versa with the max being 36.6.

Hey all,
New to this site but have been on another forum since January-2011. I just purchased the Freepower throttle controller for the Juke from Versaspeed about 3 weeks ago and it is amazing. The first full tank of gas I kept it on "Sp-5" the majority of time with a a few "Sp-9" take-offs. The difference from normal is night and day!!

The second full tank was set at "Ec-5" the entire time (Ec-7 is almost unbearable), 90% city driving, and I saw a 4+ mpg increase (from about 22 to 26 mpg). Hoping to test out some long distance driving the end of the month and maybe then I will try Ec-6 or Ec-7. I absolutely love this accessory!

FYI- I have also noticed the display will sometimes stay on after I take out the key (this happens about 50% of the time). As stated in earlier posts simply putting the key back in the ignition, turning to "on" then "off" will turn it off. On the other forum someone posted that when you disconnect the battery there may be some residual energy left on the charging system and you need to pump the brakes a few times. Well, low and behold, I tried this and it worked in getting the display to turn off.

Would be cool to know. Let us know how this turns out.

east bay j wrote:FYI- I have also noticed the display will sometimes stay on after I take out the key (this happens about 50% of the time). As stated in earlier posts simply putting the key back in the ignition, turning to "on" then "off" will turn it off. On the other forum someone posted that when you disconnect the battery there may be some residual energy left on the charging system and you need to pump the brakes a few times. Well, low and behold, I tried this and it worked in getting the display to turn off.

Thanks for this info, however, I had it stay on this afternoon when I got home from work and tried this little trick and pumped till the brake pedal got stiff and it did not work. I am however connected to a OBD2 splitter and have an older version of this unit. My model will only go up to SP7 and as low as EC5. The fact that it is the older model may be what is different, but not sure.

I am glad you are liking this device and hope your MPG will continue to raise. Good luck and welcome to the forums.

anthony870 wrote:I am however connected to a OBD2 splitter and have an older version of this unit. My model will only go up to SP7 and as low as EC5. The fact that it is the older model may be what is different, but not sure.

[/quote]

So my OBDII power connector on the throttle controller is plugged directly into the Onboard Computer Diagnostic Connector that is under the steering wheel. The newer units for the Jukes are completely plug-n-play with Sp modes 1-9 & Ec modes 1-7

guys i think you have something slightly skewed. a TC will NOT increase power.
it simply makes your computer oblivious to the signals your pedal sensor is sending out.
and inplace, listens to the signals your throttle control is sending. to make things easier, the throttle control either multiplies or divids any signal your pedal is sending by half - and that depends on the map.

if you put your TC in eco, and hit the gas pedal to the floor: your pedal will be sending out 100% throttle response. the ECO map in your new TC, basically is designed to take the 100% that your pedal is sensing from your foot, and cut it in half (lets just use numbers and factions as estimates) since idk the exact measurement to truly speak.
this way your engines responds only to as if you would have pressed your car to 50% throttle, so your technically not flooring the car, and making it burn more gas. YOU CAN DO THIS YOURSELF WITHOUT THE NEED OF A THROTTLE CONTROLER, BY SIMPLY NOT FLOORING YOUR CAR. AND USING ONLY 0%-50% PEDAL TRAVEL IN ORDER TO ACHIEVE THE "ECO MODE" MAP THAT YOU DESIRE.

now lets say you put it on the most powerful SP mode/map: and you touch the gas pedal at say maybe only 10%. your pedal will be sending out the 10%, but it will be blocked by this throttle controller that will be INSTEAD sending 80% signal to your engine. SO YOUR CAR REACTS TO THE 80% THAT ITS BEING TOLD THE DRIVER IS PRESSING THE PEDAL DOWN TOO(even tho your you didnt press the 80%, the TC lied to your engine). so you think to yourself "WOW! a tiny bit of gas, and look how much power my car now has!". But in fact you could have achieved this same amount of power, simply by slamming your foot on the gas pedal to the floor.

this throttle controller is nothing more than a trick to your car. its sending out wrong, signals in order to manipulate the engines response. so your not getting any more power, than you already had. you didnt 'unlock' any hidden potential in the car. this is a common practice for bike racers to shorten the cable by which the throttle works on. the result is a shorter twist rate of your wrist, to get to the WIDE OPEN THROTTLE stage faster. the first time, riders get back on their race bikes, they are kinda tricked, that the usual throttle twist, now equals MORE ENGINE RESPONSE. but its not power. its just a new, faster response. (bikes still use cables, while cars now use electron "drive by wire" systemes. but the result is the same.)

you can give yourself the same results for free, as this throttle control gives you by doing this:
eco mode: gently press the pedal down no more than 35% of its total travel distance.
normal mode: from 0% pedal travel - quickly press the gas pedal down to 75%
sport mode: from 0% pedal travel - quickly press the gas pedal down to 100%

if you wanted to unlock power, or make the engine actually make more power, it would need to be either re-tuned, or have a computer piggy-backed to the car- the will control the fuel injectors. my race-bike has this. its called a Dynojet PowerCommander. runs a little over $300 and it gets directly installed to your fuel injectors, and throttle control sensor. and what happens, is it basically re-organizes your air/fuel ratio, ignition setting, etc and makes your fuel injectors squirt more fuel depending on the MAP you choose. It allows a full range of fuel adjustment, as much as +/- 100% over stock.

Thank you ImStriken for the detailed explanation. May I know how we can improve fuel economy for our Juke? I was told using good engine oil helps. Tyres should help too. I have a friend who drives a Mitsubishi Pejaro, he says the Pivot Mega Raizin voltage stabilizer helps.

LuvJuke wrote:Thank you ImStriken for the detailed explanation. May I know how we can improve fuel economy for our Juke? I was told using good engine oil helps. Tyres should help too. I have a friend who drives a Mitsubishi Pejaro, he says the Pivot Mega Raizin voltage stabilizer helps.

YOUR FRIEND IS CRAZY. a voltage stabilizer will do nothing for your car, fuel wise. hell it wont do anything at all. there is no efficiency to capacitors unless its regulating a high electrical consumption. for example: bass subwoofers & amplifiers. but the capacitors are the size of a SHOE... not a little box. voltage stabilizers are like fuel hose magnets, like rust modules, etc. those are all ebay sales gimmicks.

if you want to take a car and make it burn less gas, do this:

• reduce the weight as much as possible. ounces = pounds, pounds = MPG's
  keep your tire pressure right. use LRRT(low rolling resistance tires)
  keep the accessories down to a minimum. many times extra fog-lights, spoilers, etc create more drag, thus ruining the vehicles aerodynamacy = worse MPG's
  dont use the A/C to much
  dont install power draining items in your car. they create more drag upon the alternator
  dont drive fast. learn your car's MPG speed-spot speed. my car has it around 71mph - that gets me the best mpg's. any slower or faster and the mpg's start getting worse
  drive with your windows closed.
  stop eating fatty foods = your fat butt reduces mpg's

put it this way... without making serious major alterations = your car is what is from the factory. deal with it. all the things i listed above will save you penny's- not dollars. but in 10years, it could add up to a couple hundred dollars. THE BEST WAY TO STOP USING SO MUCH FUEL = KEEP THE THROTTLE RPM'S DOWN

Thks ImStricken. The figure was provided by my friend, he works in an oil & gas company, I don't think he lies. But anyway, you had given good advise for improving fuel economy. My 1.6L non turbo petrol unit is doing only about 35mpg. Not sure if you can recommend a set of good LLRT tyres? Yes, I am mindful of the pressure from my right foot.

LuvJuke wrote:Thks ImStricken. The figure was provided by my friend, he works in an oil & gas company, I don't think he lies. But anyway, you had given good advise for improving fuel economy. My 1.6L non turbo petrol unit is doing only about 35mpg. Not sure if you can recommend a set of good LLRT tyres? Yes, I am mindful of the pressure from my right foot.

i dont know much about them, but LLRT will be really hard. hard tires are horrible in the cold. you need soft flexible tires in order to not freeze up and turn into ski's.

Noted with thanks!

ImStricken wrote:guys i think you have something slightly skewed. a TC will NOT increase power.
it simply makes your computer oblivious to the signals your pedal sensor is sending out.
and inplace, listens to the signals your throttle control is sending. to make things easier, the throttle control either multiplies or divids any signal your pedal is sending by half - and that depends on the map.

if you put your TC in eco, and hit the gas pedal to the floor: your pedal will be sending out 100% throttle response. the ECO map in your new TC, basically is designed to take the 100% that your pedal is sensing from your foot, and cut it in half (lets just use numbers and factions as estimates) since idk the exact measurement to truly speak.
this way your engines responds only to as if you would have pressed your car to 50% throttle, so your technically not flooring the car, and making it burn more gas. YOU CAN DO THIS YOURSELF WITHOUT THE NEED OF A THROTTLE CONTROLER, BY SIMPLY NOT FLOORING YOUR CAR. AND USING ONLY 0%-50% PEDAL TRAVEL IN ORDER TO ACHIEVE THE "ECO MODE" MAP THAT YOU DESIRE.

now lets say you put it on the most powerful SP mode/map: and you touch the gas pedal at say maybe only 10%. your pedal will be sending out the 10%, but it will be blocked by this throttle controller that will be INSTEAD sending 80% signal to your engine. SO YOUR CAR REACTS TO THE 80% THAT ITS BEING TOLD THE DRIVER IS PRESSING THE PEDAL DOWN TOO(even tho your you didnt press the 80%, the TC lied to your engine). so you think to yourself "WOW! a tiny bit of gas, and look how much power my car now has!". But in fact you could have achieved this same amount of power, simply by slamming your foot on the gas pedal to the floor.

this throttle controller is nothing more than a trick to your car. its sending out wrong, signals in order to manipulate the engines response. so your not getting any more power, than you already had. you didnt 'unlock' any hidden potential in the car. this is a common practice for bike racers to shorten the cable by which the throttle works on. the result is a shorter twist rate of your wrist, to get to the WIDE OPEN THROTTLE stage faster. the first time, riders get back on their race bikes, they are kinda tricked, that the usual throttle twist, now equals MORE ENGINE RESPONSE. but its not power. its just a new, faster response. (bikes still use cables, while cars now use electron "drive by wire" systemes. but the result is the same.)

you can give yourself the same results for free, as this throttle control gives you by doing this:
eco mode: gently press the pedal down no more than 35% of its total travel distance.
normal mode: from 0% pedal travel - quickly press the gas pedal down to 75%
sport mode: from 0% pedal travel - quickly press the gas pedal down to 100%

if you wanted to unlock power, or make the engine actually make more power, it would need to be either re-tuned, or have a computer piggy-backed to the car- the will control the fuel injectors. my race-bike has this. its called a Dynojet PowerCommander. runs a little over $300 and it gets directly installed to your fuel injectors, and throttle control sensor. and what happens, is it basically re-organizes your air/fuel ratio, ignition setting, etc and makes your fuel injectors squirt more fuel depending on the MAP you choose. It allows a full range of fuel adjustment, as much as +/- 100% over stock.

I don't believe I ever said that it adds more power to the vehicle. This is all completely ture, however, the reason I use it is because the accelerator pedal in our Jukes is so dang touchy. This device helps me to trick the Juke and turn down the touchyness of the pedal. I normally drive between 15 - 20% throttle on the back roads and 30-35% throttle on interstate. I keep it at EC3, EC5 was just way to slow, and if I pull out of a parking lot and forget to change it back to EC3, since it resets sometimes when car is off, I can tell a huge difference immediately at 15% in normal compared to EC3.

Sorry to post this so long after your post but guess I never saw it before, and please don't think that I'm arguing the fact with you cause everything you said is completely true, but its different for the Juke. If you haven't test drove one I definately recommend it so you can judge the throttle for yourself. And who knows it may even just be me from going from a Versa to a Juke. Also one thing I've also thought about is that it may seem like a useless device and you could just watch your driving habits and get the same results, but then by saying that you would have to say the same for radar detectors. Sometimes these devices just help keep yourself in check.

Hi Anthony, I bet you are driving a turbo version of the juke? I'm driving a naturally aspirated version. The throttle input is never that immediate. So I guess throttle controller won't work as well as in your case? Just my gut feel.