No Start After Engine Refresh - Help Needed
Re: No Start After Engine Refresh - Help Needed
Operating temperature is controlled by the thermostat, not by the coolant concentration. The only way the coolant mixture will affect the temperature is if it’s 100% coolant which could make it run hot because of the reduced heat transfer. Nothing you can do to the coolant mixture will make the engine run cooler than the thermostat temperature.
Re: No Start After Engine Refresh - Help Needed
3Q Jay wrote: ↑Sun May 02, 2021 6:59 amThe factory installed thermostat is 21200-6P000 (now-6P001). It has an 82C setpoint (~180F). This was higher than that used on the G50 platform.
When I first purchased my '95 back in 2007, I noticed that it took a long time to warm up (confirmed by ECU temp scan). When doing the re-hab mx, I found that the original factory installed t-stat had a split in the o-ring which allowed coolant flow even before the spring opened.
To be precise, you are saying you are running a lesser ratio of coolant to water? Running more "coolant" than water will actually raise the engine operating temp as the fluid must attain a higher temp prior to boiling off to the overflow tank.
I apologize - other members are correct that I am running more distilled water than coolant (flushed system out and put straight distilled. Planning on reflushing again to refill with 50-50 when we start seeing lower temps, in az that’s November LOL.
I will look further into thermostat. I was under the impression that 170s was an acceptable average temp for our cars.
Re: No Start After Engine Refresh - Help Needed
Running straight distilled water until November is not a good idea - your cooling system is going to be rusting with no corrosion inhibitors. If your car is running hot you need to diagnose the problem and fix it (bad fan clutch, clogged radiator?), running straight distilled water is going to do more harm than good.
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VStar650CL
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3Q Jay
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Re: No Start After Engine Refresh - Help Needed
170F was indeed the setpoint on the G50 tstat (at least thru the 1995 model year). but they upped it for the FGY33. I believe it had to do with OBD-ii but not certain.
I think we all agree that 100% glycol is bad (great metallics protection, lousy heat transfer, high specific heat), and 0% glycol is bad (great heat transfer, no corrosion protection). Where I may differ from others on this board is that I do not believe 50/50 is optimised for most applications. Since I live in a climate that rarely sees subfreezing, i prefer 65 distilled, 35 OAT (or hOAT).
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VStar650CL
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Re: No Start After Engine Refresh - Help Needed
Nothing wrong with that. As Ryantzer pointed out earlier, the temp gauge will tell you if the glycol concentration is too high for the load you're putting on the engine. If it doesn't spike when you get on the pedal on a hot day, your concentration is fine. From an anti-boil standpoint, the more glycol the merrier, so in a hot climate that's perfectly sensible.
Re: No Start After Engine Refresh - Help Needed
VStar650CL wrote: ↑Mon May 03, 2021 11:21 amFrom an anti-boil standpoint, the more glycol the merrier, so in a hot climate that's perfectly sensible.
Actually it would be just the opposite: in a hot climate you'd want the lowest concentration of coolant necessary to provide corrosion protection - this would maximize the amount of distilled water in the mixture which will allow the coolant to transfer more heat. The decrease in boiling point is negligible compared to the increase in heat transfer. Additionally, adding a capful of dish detergent will lower the surface tension of the coolant mixture and increase the heat dissipation capabilities - this is how all the Water Wetter type products work.
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VStar650CL
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Re: No Start After Engine Refresh - Help Needed
Yah, I read and wrote that backwards, my bad.Ryantzer wrote: ↑Mon May 03, 2021 11:37 amActually it would be just the opposite: in a hot climate you'd want the lowest concentration of coolant necessary to provide corrosion protection - this would maximize the amount of distilled water in the mixture which will allow the coolant to transfer more heat. The decrease in boiling point is negligible compared to the increase in heat transfer. Additionally, adding a capful of dish detergent will lower the surface tension of the coolant mixture and increase the heat dissipation capabilities - this is how all the Water Wetter type products work.
But the first part was right. Wetters work well, you're right, as long as you don't get carried away. Low coolant levels with a surfactant make for some interesting effects.
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