No power.. Need Timing advice!!

[vape-one]

As you all probably know that I did a plenum pull an replaced injectors an it made Z run alot higher of an idle an it seemed better.. I had figured that was the problem..NO.. When I test drove the Fairlady it had still seemed like it wasn't running right.. Seems as if the catalytic converters are clogged.. When I let clutch out,just as it started to really kick in an accelerate/wine out about 2grand it dies an totally looses all power an takes a while to get it to even move.. But it idles fine.. These are a few things that could I think be causing the problem.. Fouled Plugs/In proper timing/Bad Gas/

I have checked all connections for corrosion,an put fresh gas in but I used 87octaine..

I am out of options.. I have switched my IAV-MAS-FIAV-Coils-Plugs-Injectors-Fuel pressure regulator...

Next I gota timing light an im gonna borrow a plug wire off my Fiance's Sunfire an check time.. I hope plug wire works.. I gota crappy light..lol

I am saving Fuel pump switch for last cuz I hate breathing fumes an I already took my old one outa my old Z that I know works.. I had to cut one of the hoses on the Fuel pump cuz it was stuck like it was welded on.. lol

Any of you professional ZX fellas would know of something to try that doesn't cost a pile of $ let me know plZZZ... Thank u..

Its backfiring when it gets to about 5grand an I let off?? Does that help you all maybe?? ...
Modified by vape-one at 3:33 AM 2/20/2010

[Zwicked]

Have you run ECU codes since the most recent things done?

I would pull the spark plugs and see what they look like. They tell the story of how the engine is running. You are using NGK OEM plugs right?

Timing is not what is causing your current major issue, unless the belt of not 100% lined up. If the CAS is adjusted even grossly out of perfect it will be a bit sluggish or tend to show signs of detonation on an NA if you really get on the throttle, but not to any extent as you've described.If it's been running badly and real rich for a long time it can plug the cats. Have you tried removing the cats and running the engine to see if it makes a difference?While the plugs are out, I would do a compression test. Also turn the engine over and see if a strong fuel mist shoots out of any spark plug hole. If it does, this is a sign of leaking lower injector o-rings which will make it run rich and poorly.This is where I would start and if the above looks good, then test all EFI components.Just a crazy thought but your coolant level is full up right? If it gets low or it doesn't circulate or the thermostat is stuck shut (overheating), it will not run properly as the CTS will send the ECU the wrong info. Also, the wiring for the CTS is good right? I have seen the odd Z where the harness in front of the engine gets damaged by the fan the the CTS wiring is compromised.

PS - get rid of the 87 octane. It will foul the plugs.

[vape-one]

-I am thinking a combo of the plugs an the gas.. Fouled..-I just replaced injectors an it made a difference,, Engine sounds stronger. Idles faster.-I took exhaust off an Catalytic Converters are poked out, But you said cats, Meaning Cat backs so no.. Will try tho in morning..-The Z isn't overheating,, Even after the exhaust was turning red the engine wasn't getting warm at all...

Ok I never thought that the Cat backs could be clogged.. Because that is what it really seems like is wrong.. THERE IS NO FLOW .. an there is all this exhaust like something is backed up.. So I will do.. Thanks..

[vape-one]

There is no fuel that came out of line when I unhooked the line with filter on.. These plugs look as if they are burning a little lean... Maybe the check valve in the pump is bad?? Cuz like I said I just replaced injectors so it wouldn't loose pressure there.. An yes when I start it takes a while for idle to catch up.. So I know its gotta be the pump.. What do you all think???




Modified by vape-one at 1:04 AM 2/21/2010

[Zwicked]

Those are not the right plugs. They are not even Platinum from what the photo looks like. No wonder the engine is running badly. Get the correct ones, NGK PFR6B-11 is what you need gapped at .045. Wrong plugs make this engine run very badly. Also, why is that one plug so rusty looking?As it stands they show your engine is running very rich. This is likely why the exhaust is turning red. The unburnt fuel is igniting in the exhaust. This will cause high EGT's and destroy your valves if left that way. There's likely no issue with your exhaust system.Change out the fuel to 91 and change the plugs. Do that first and then let us know how things are.

[vape-one]

They were old plugs an I never knew you had to have platinum plugs.. The plugs was in the Z when I bought it an the old Injectors that was in it- two of them was not working or stuck open.. After Z sat for a few days I took fuel hose off an nothing squirted out at all.. There is no fuel pressure.. All it could be is some kinda check valve with the fuel pump.. So I will get the right plugs/Gas an im putting my old fuel pump in that I know worked.. Thank you very much you really have helped me out alot..

[es.biggs]

I also have the wrong plugs in my Z, and hopefully when I get the right ones, NGK PFR6B-11, the hesitation problem will cease!!!!!!

Either that or my 1990 is going to need a new head most likely haha

[vape-one]

Those are not the right plugs. They are not even Platinum from what the photo looks like. No wonder the engine is running badly. Get the correct ones, NGK PFR6B-11 is what you need gapped at .045. Wrong plugs make this engine run very badly. Also, why is that one plug so rusty looking?As it stands they show your engine is running very rich. This is likely why the exhaust is turning red. The unburnt fuel is igniting in the exhaust. This will cause high EGT'

-Ok I got the right plugs but they are ones from my old car, It's midnight an I just got done taking the fuel pump out an putting in my old one from my "Blown Z" that I know did work well..-The reason the plug was rusty was because I used one of the old plugs outa my old Z.-It was not running rich--They were just black because they were in my new Z an it was running really rich when I first got it..Two injectors needed changed.. I think that one was even stuck open cuz it was burning really black an the other one that was no ohm reading was really clean an im thinking it was stuck closed..

-The fuel line I know is supposed to hold pressure even after multiple days im sure this one didn't an it would start right up but it would take some time to fully run once started.. You could tell once it was started that there wasn't no fuel pressure...

-So tonight I did fuel pump an sanded an installed the right plugs.. Once I get it warmed up im gonna pinch the P.C.V. hoses on first the left then the right to check for Vacuum leaks..

[vape-one]

FOUND THE PROBLEM-----Well I just changed the fuel pump an no change.. -It still purrs like a kitten an has no miss..-I took a plug wire off my girlfriends sunfire an taped it an timing lite together...

---It is showing 5 degrees

Now~Would you Z fellas say that it plus gas an plugs has anything to do with a Z that has not a lick of power???? 20 more minutes an we shall see..

--Z was way out of time.. After I disconnected the AAC an the TPS I set the base idle at 750 RPM's an loosened up the CAS an just tapped it counter clockwise until it was set at 15 degrees..

After all the things I had checked an switched,if I would of just checked the time first .. All well I guess that's how you learn..

Thank you NICO I couldn't of done it with out your support!!!
Modified by vape-one at 5:07 AM 2/22/2010

[es.biggs]

Sorry for the noobish question haha, but how do you set the CAS? How do you know where 15 degrees is? I have a 1990 as well, and I'm having problems with the timing I believe.

Did you know about the Service Bulletin on the left cylinder head for our cars? There was apparently some machining flaw that causes the CAS to keep getting outta whack until the head, camshaft, and CAS are all replaced.

Hopefully this isn't true for either one of our cars; let me know how yours is doing and if it stays in time now! Congrats on your work so far looks like you just might have come to the bottom of it!

[vape-one]

Hey yea... Thanks for the positive energy pal.. I'll try an answer your question the best I can because it will take days for anyone else to..

-1...First warm up your Z !!! -2...Then set an unplug your T.P.S.(Throttle Position Sensor)

an on your I.A.A.(Idle Air Adjusting unit) unhook your A.A.C.(Auxiliary Air Control) THE UNIT IS LOCATED ON DRIVERSIDE REAR OF ENGINE NEAR THE FIREWALL. -3...On the I.A.A. there is a screw that is the Idle Adjustment an after steps 1 & 2 are completed turn the screw clockwise to lower Base Idle to 750 R.P.M(Revolutions per minute) About 3/16 of an inch below 1 on your instrument panel. -4...Turn off engine an loosen up but don't remove the 3 bolts on your C.A.S.(Crank Angle Sensor).Make a mark on C.A.S. so you know where it was set in case you would need to move it back...Also on main crank pulley find the timing mark an use a white marker to mark it brighter..-5...Start engine an aim timing light at mark on pulley.. Slightly move/tap C.A.S. so mark on pulley is set on 15 degrees before Top dead center..-6...Tighten down 3 bolts on C.A.S. an connect T.P.S. an A.A.C.

7... FREAKING BURN RUBBER

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91KAz8d7VRA http://www.es-ab.se/z-car/IdleTech.html ... Tech2.html

[BigTDogg (MA)]

You can skip the first 3 steps. Just warm your engine up till the coolant line is roughly 9 o'clock. Measure timing using the loop on the PTU. Then shut the engine off, loosen the screws and adjust accordingly. Counter clockwise to advance timing, clockwise to retard it. 15 degrees before top dead center is ideal, except for 96TTs (I think), which are supposed to be at 10 degrees.

Glad your Z is up and running again!

[vape-one]

Thanks buddy! I had 90' N/A I paid 3 grand for an had it 3months an it spun a bearing. I was lost for the past year because of my loss. I bought a TT engine block for Vg30 an never went any further because I want to put a V8 an Turbo it..

Please send me a picture of the hook on PTU if you have accessibility to get one.. You also have to have a special Timing light to do it with the hook also I know..

I gota lot to do to get the Z legal an on the road... I gota call state police an get a one way pass to DMV to get it inspected because the Z only has a salvaged tittle an I need a reconstructed one.. I wonder how much all that will cost.. Sucks.. The Z was wrecked an it only busted the fender an front control arm.. but its all fixed an painted beautifully..

Bad part is I go to court on March 31 for DWI in Maryland but I have a West Virginia license ...

So I have very limited time to do all this.. ;(

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Kinda tough to see in this pic (not my engine) but it's the small loop of wire before the first connector on the PTU on the left side of the engine. Just above the top connector, there is a small loop of wire. You run the inductive loop through that.



It's a little clearer here, off the car. This is my EFI harness before I installed it. You can see the loop up in the left corner.



This is the timing light I have, picked it up at a local auto parts store for about $40. The black box is the inductive pick-up I was referring to.

http://www.carparts.com/Tune-U...08168

[es.biggs]

So the black clamp/box (the inductive pickup) on the timing light goes on the black loop before the PTU connector? With the timing light, do you check for the light to illuminate every time the crank pulley gets to TDC or or is it supposed to light up at 15 degrees before?

I've never had to use a timing light before.

Thanks so much for the help guys. This forum is great!

[Zwicked]

If that doesn't work for you ( some lights are picky), you can also clamp it around the #1 coil pack harness right next to where it plugs into the coil pack.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

You aim the light at the timing marks on the lower timing cover. The light flashes everytime the #1 cylinder is at TDC. There is a mark on your crank pulley which will become visible with the flash, indicating the electrical timing of the car. See in the picture below, just above the crank pulley, there are some silver numbers:



So if you read 10° BTDC timing, you want to shut the car off, loosen the CAS, and tap it very gently counter clockwise. 5° on the CAS DOES NOT EQUAL 5° of timing adjustment. Millimeters of adjustment is all it takes. Tighten the top CAS bolt, recheck timing. If it's now at 15°, you're good. If not, repeat the process till you're at 15°, then shut the car off and tighten the other two CAS bolts.

More information about reading timing, including viewing angles with underdrive pulleys, can be found here:

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/30....html

[es.biggs]

Thanks much. I'm gonna get a timing light and hopefully get some readings/adjustments done soon, whenever I get a chance.

[vape-one]

With the timing light, do you check for the light to illuminate every time the crank pulley gets to TDC or or is it supposed to light up at 15 degrees before?

I've never had to use a timing light before.

Thanks so much for the help guys. This forum is great!

I put a Video link for you to CLICK ON.. An it would of explained most of what you wanted to know but I know it was probably easy to miss.. HERE IT IS even though im sure you got a good grasp on things..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91KAz8d7VRA

If ya need anything else just ask ill be watching for your name..

That Z at the bottom of your posts is Sweet pal... later

[es.biggs]

Haha thanks man. I totally didn't see that link. I must have been sleepy or something! Well this weekend I'll have some time to do some work on the car, and this will def be one thing I'll look at.

I appreciate it again

-Ethan