I just upgraded to Satisfied Brakes Pro Ceramic pads on the Rogue. So far, no issues or brake warp.

However, the brakes do not seem to have the same 'bite' as the factory ones. No matter, they still work very well. Time will tell if it helps the warping issue.

philipa_240sx wrote:However, the brakes do not seem to have the same 'bite' as the factory ones.

The OEM brakes are quite good at that chapter, even too good when you come from a Honda Odyssey (which barely brakes).

Do you still consider it good braking or just barely average? Do you have to apply more pedal pressure to get the car stopped?

It's only the initial 'bite' that's affected. Otherwise, I would say the braking force is roughly the same. In some ways, this is nice as it makes for smoother braking.

Now, I did go on a quick run to bed in the pads when I first got them. Admittedly I overheated the brakes doing this and experienced a lot of brake fade. Bottom line: Ceramics to not deal well with repeated high speed braking ie. race track driving. But you would never get them this hot driving 'normally'.

At the 48,000 km mark my front brake rotors were warped and I had to get them machined. Now I have 63,000 km and once again they are warped.
All my driving is hwy driving so very little brake use. I am not hard on the brakes when I do apply. Does anybody else have this problem with their Rogue?
I've never experienced this in my life owning cars. All previous cars I've owned before I can go minimum 100,000 km before replacements of any brake components. Must say pretty disappointed in the Nissan quality. Going to have to see if dealer will replace under warranty.

When you got the rotors machined did they check to make sure the pads were still good? Whenever you either replace or turn your rotors it is usually a good idea to change the pads as well. If the rotors have been warped for awhile then usually that will make the pads go bad. You may also want to check to make sure that the caliper is functioning properly and not getting stuck.

Hey Hammester. They assured me at the pads were still good. I brought the car in to have the brakes checked as soon as I started getting the pulsating throughout the car. At the same time I had the detailed brake inspection, brakes cleaned, and calipers lubed etc. Everything checked serviceable. I just had my 60 000 km service couple of weeks ago and they say the pads were still good. I just started getting the pulsating again a little while ago. Thanks.

Firstly, turning brake rotors on a lathe usually will never completely get rid of rotor warp. There is a good chance it will return as the damage is already done.

Here is some light reading on how brake warping occurs:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_wa ... disk.shtml

I've had warped rotor issues on all my cars including company cars in the past 10 years. This covers Mazda, Nissan, and Fords. I've tried different types of brake rotors and a few different brake pads and it seemingly makes no difference. The warp still occurs.

My take on it? It's a combination of driving habits and the type of brake pad material. It's not a manufacturing defect or inferior parts. You could put a different driver in the same vehicle and never have a problem.

Since we can't change the driver, change the brake pads. I've had good success with the newer Ceramic composite brake pads. Specifically Satisfied Performance Pro Ceramic. My wife had warped brakes on her Mazda using OEM pads. I swapped in the Satisfied Pro Ceramics 4 years ago... never had a brake issue since. She's on her 2nd set of ceramic brake pads now. My theory is the chances of pad imprinting and rotor hot spots are reduced with these ceramic pads. Regardless, it's solved the problem.

The brakes on my Rogue went a bit longer before warping... nearly 60,000mi. So when the time came, I swapped in the same Satisfied Pro Ceramics and a new set of rotors. I have put on about 8000mi. since with no issues. Time will tell if the rotor warp re-occurs.

Some good info there philipa. Thanks. Will look into those pads.

Yeah, they weren't cheap. Fronts are 2x the cost of OEM.

Front: #PR1338-C $152
Rears: #PR1288-C $58

http://www.ibrakeparts.com

Wow you were not joking when you said they were expensive! How long do they usually last for you?

hammester wrote:Wow you were not joking when you said they were expensive! How long do they usually last for you?

I get 50-60k miles out of my brakes usually. I drive a lot of highway so that makes a difference. I haven't had these ceramics on the Rogue long enough to see how they wear.

In theory, ceramic composite pads should last longer then conventional semi-metallic pads. But quite honestly, it depends largely on your driving habits:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/tec ... ?techid=88

The best pad I have ever used for wear is the Hawk HPS I had installed on my Altima. However, they were hard on rotors. I went through 2 sets of rotors in 60,000mi... both warped and showed signs of heavy wear. I swapped in some PowerSlots which seemed to help. After 80,000mi I still had the original Hawk HPS pads with over 25% pad material left! That's just nuts!

88,000 miles on my Rogue and I am on my 3rd warped rotor tour. Philipa, you are a very knowledgable guy but you are wrong on this one. It is not the way I drive. I drive 50,000 plus miles per year and have done so for the past 25 years. Never warped a rotor. Now three times in less than 2 years with the Rogue. I have had 17 company vehicles in that time. Ranger, Camry, Tacoma, F150, Tahoe, Explorer, Trailblazer, Accord, T Bird, etc. Many makes and types of vehicles. Add my personal cars to that list with no rotor problems on any of them and I think my driving habits can eliminated as a cause.

Webrrider and others with rotor problems:

I wonder if this is a case of brakes calipers sticking, have any of you disassembled, cleaned and lubed the calipers? Do any or all of you drive in winter conditions with road salt? Also, were all rotors equally warped, if so, it must be rotor quality becauase all 4 calipers couldn't seize up at the same time, unless something else is going on that I'm unaware of such as the brakes not releasing when you release the brake pedal. Electronic brake force distribution system? I don't know much about it, just tossing around ideas.

kerrton: each of the three times this has happened to me, I have taken the car to my mechanic (all happened out of warranty) and he has gone throught the calipers, replaced pads, tirned the rotors, etc. He says they are just cheap rotors. Not sure how he could tell but he told me after the first warping that this would probably keep happening. He was right. I break in the pads per manufacturers instructions as well. I doubt that very many people take that extra step and I still have this problem. As far as winter conditions, I live in Southern California so that is not a problem. My three occurances do not have any similarity as far as I can tell. My driving patterns have been the same (outside sales in the same territory) for over 25 years so this is really strange. I assume that I will soon be replacing all four rotors ($$$$)

Weberrider,

I went through the same brake issues with my Altima. I tried OEM Nissan and 2 or 3 quality aftermarket rotor makes along with a couple sets of OEM pads. They all warped the same. I also raced for several years so bedding in brakes was natural for me. Bedding-in made no difference either.

The final solution? Hawk HPS pads and PowerSlot rotors. Never had a warp issue.

The OEM brakes on the wife's Mazda had badly warped with only 48,000mi on the clock. I swapped to ceramic composite pads with generic aftermarket rotors and not a single rotor warp issue for the past 4 yrs and 85,000mi.

My money is on the brake pads. I would try a different make to see if it helps.

Like Weberrider, I do 60 000km/year 95% of it highway, and out of all the vehicles I've ever owned, this is the only one that I ever had brake issues with. Like I said with previous post, I was usually able to get 100 000 km before my first brake job.

I'm going to have to look into other options, like Philipa's ceramics there...but I really don't think I'm going to with with Nissan OEM again. My car is due for it's 66 000 service so I'll have to figure out something then. Dealer already told me you can only turn the rotors once if it happens again, likely a change. Of course now that my warranty is done, and I have to pay, may as well pay for something that'll last....

Thanks for all the input there guys....

This is my third Car and my Father's 6th, we never had Warping until be bought our Nissan's.

I had to change my Coupe at 70k/km and my Father's Rogue SL at 60k/km.

Just wanted to get this out there.

I replaced mine at 48k miles. Not really that they were completely out but they were shaking and I decided to replace them instead of reconditioning them. Paid $260 for 4 rotors including shipping and 4 ceramic pads off ebay from http://myworld.ebay.com/trinet_motorsports. The funny part is that there's still no rust on my drilled/slotted rotors since they were zinc plated. All rotors getting rust one day but zinc ones rusting slower.

I'm in need of rotors too at 29K. I'm looking at these slotted/drilled ones for 65$ each and free shipping. Not bad since Autozone wants the same price for plain old regular rotors

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A2854A0A0.aspx

There really is no significant benefit to drilled rotors on the street. If anything there are drawbacks as you are decreasing the thermal mass of the rotor and the drilled holes can lead to rotor cracking.... even if they are chamfered/radius-ed.

I admit, they do look pretty though.

oK,

I've got a 2008 SL AWD, and it has around 55K Miles on it.

I've noticed some noise coming out of the front brakes, and inspected them. They are getting low (a LOT of highway driving...female driver who is quick on the brakes, short stops a lot).

What is the best option? I read through this thread, but it seems as if there are a lot of 'maybes' and 'not sure but it may fit'.

Is there a definite route to go? Is aftermarket drilled/slotted and ceramic cheap compared to auto-zone or factory?

I'm not looking to make a race-car out of my Wife's rogue...just want the brakes to be in good shape and it's time for a replacement up front. I've never had them turned, so maybe I can get by with a simple rotor turn and pad swap?

Thanks in advance,
Shawn

I'd say that the stock rotors should be fine and won't need replacing unless there is something to indicate otherwise? Just change the pads, I'd stick with stock for simplicity but if you have the time and interest you could research ceramic, and remember it's a good idea to flush the brake fluid. It'll likely cost $80+ for the brake fluid flush but it is worth it not only for maintenance longevity but also for functionality, new fluid will function better than older fluid. But if nothing is out of the ordinary they probably won't even have to touch the rotors, just replace the pads and clean up the calipers........pretty basic and relatively cheap maintenance!

kerrton wrote: But if nothing is out of the ordinary they probably won't even have to touch the rotors, just replace the pads and clean up the calipers........pretty basic and relatively cheap maintenance!

Ideally, you'd check the condition of the rotors and measure their thickness with a micrometer.

Front Rotors: New = 26mm , Wear limit = 24mm
Rear Rotors: New = 16mm, Wear limit = 14mm

If the rotors are within spec, do not vibrate when braking, and appear in decent condition then re-use them. Otherwise replace them. The front rotors on my Rogue were pretty much done when I did my last brake job so I replaced them.

philipa_240sx wrote:]The front rotors on my Rogue were pretty much done when I did my last brake job so I replaced them.

Phillipa, which rotors did you replace the OEM ones with? Did you stay with Nissan? I called my one and only local dealer and found their pricing quite high (at least double of that @ AutoZone), not to mention they don't usually have them in stock.

bill875 wrote:

philipa_240sx wrote:]The front rotors on my Rogue were pretty much done when I did my last brake job so I replaced them.

Phillipa, which rotors did you replace the OEM ones with? Did you stay with Nissan? I called my one and only local dealer and found their pricing quite high (at least double of that @ AutoZone), not to mention they don't usually have them in stock.

I used an aftermarket rotor... less than $75/ea (in Canada):

Raybestos #980637R

NAPA also sells a similar rotor #48880637:

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 90+2090036

My only complaint with aftermarket rotors is they lack any coating to protect against corrosion around the hub area. That was easily solved with some high temp silver caliper paint. I just masked off the rotor area (where the brake pads touch) and sprayed 3 light coats.

philipa_240sx wrote:I used an aftermarket rotor... less than $75/ea (in Canada):

Raybestos #980637R

NAPA also sells a similar rotor #48880637

Thank you very much for the info

This problem you're experience is pretty much widespread within Nissan/Infiniti vehicles. Nissan has offered some "fixes" but the problems seem to continue to exist. You probably better off just getting brakes from Midas or Meineke or a set of OEM like aftermarket rotors and pads.

It seems that alot of this rougues are having Warping problems, I've notice a slight shimmy, when braking at 24K miles. Just waiting on the time to replace pads to refinish the rotors. My question is, how many have just replaced pad and turnd their rotors and the problem still presents it self? I just orderd some EBC green stuff 6000, for my rogue. Does any one have any info on how good they are, or how bad they are?

I have a 2010 Rogue SL and it is only at 18,000 miles and the dealer replaced my rotors....been driving 30+ years never before had a car with this issue especially at this low mileage. The dealer said I had to have stopped hard or rode my brakes on mountain roads, neither of which has happened!

Over 20,000 miles on the same rotors on my 2009 Roguel SL AWD here.