My roomie and I just rebuilt an s14 he picked up. We rebuilt the engine back to stock spec and put the GReddy turbo kit on.
We cannot get the car to start. I have pulled the plugs to double check spark and they were sparking. We syphoned out all of the gas, and purged the system with new gas. We also replaced the starter, battery, and battery terminals.
I am truely at a loss of ideas, I tried doing searching but could not find anything like this. Any sugestions would be great.
Newly built KA-T not starting.
Re: Newly built KA-T not starting. (S-14boy)
So it sound like the thing is tuning over. How did you check spark? You need to have a plug plugged into the spark plug boot and draped across a grounded area while someone turns the engine over. If you do have spark, then you can generally count out cam and crank sensors. Listen for the fuel pump. With the key on the fuel pump primes for about 3secs. and then when you try to start the car the pump runs all the time. If the pump works, check for injector pulse from the ECM with a noid light. If you have all that, then maybe your ignition timing is out. Set cyl #1 to TDC on the compression stroke and make sure the rotor button is on cyl#1 plug wire. Tell us more....and good luck
Re: Newly built KA-T not starting. (carmo)
We originally checked the spark with the method you spoke of. But I know the pump does not prime like you spoke of. I did not think of that as a problem as when I looked at the 95 FSM it does not say anything about it doing that. I will try to check the injector pulse and timing with your methods. I appreciate the input.
Re: Newly built KA-T not starting. (S-14boy)
If you pull the EGI pump (electronic gas injection) relay and read the little diagram on it you can figure out how to test that circuit. If you flip the relay over and look real close next to the terminals you can see numbers. These numbers correlate to the numbers on the little diagram on top of the relay. All your checks will be performed where the relay plugs in at. Check to see if you have power on the switched side of the relay. DON'T jump the control side of the relay. The little coil winding on the little diagram on the relay is the control side. Don't mess with those pins. The other side is the switch side. One pin is hot with the key on. The other pin sends the voltage to the fuel pump when the ECM grounds the control side. It sound complicated, but it's not. If you find power at the one side of the switch, then you can turn the car off, jump the appropriate terminals, turn the key back on and the pump should run all the time. In essence, you cut the ECM out of the fuel supply circuit. Sh*t! I kinda got off on a rant there. Keep me posted.