1. Ok, will do. How many are there? And exactly where are they located?2. Sounds simple enough. I'm assuming if any of them haven't been done I should probably have it done right away?3. That won't be a problem. I'll be taking good care of my baby.4. Yeah, I'll be getting that header put on very soon.nametakennow wrote:Welcome to NICO.
1. A shop should know what you're talking about if you simply say that you want them to loctite the butterfly screws. They're screws in the butterfly in intake that come loose over time. If they get loose they can go through your intake manifold and get sucked into the cylinders, damaging or destroying your cylinder walls, pistons, rods, valves, etc.
2. Call a dealer and tell them you want to check on recalls. They'll ask for the VIN. Read it off to them.
3. Not really. Just make sure it gets regular fluid changes and such.
4. That's up to you. Get that header on ASAP so that you don't have precat failure and the engine goes. You'll need to move the 2nd O2 sensor or put a spark plug defouler on it to pass emissions after you install it (assuming Iowa has emissions).
Personally, I'd ditch the lighting, the seats, and depending on what the body kit and wheels look like, them too. However, it's your car and your preference matters here.
Other performance mods you would want to consider are balance shaft removal (Jim Wolf Technology), motor mounts (Energy Suspension), and shocks/springs (several brands, do some searching).
It really depends on what you want from the car. More performance means more money and less comfort. More showyness means more attention, more weight, less performance, and, again, more money.
So, let us know what you're into and we can help.
Thanks for the article! From what it looks like, I don't need an adjustable coilover. My car already sits quite low to the ground, especially with the body kit, so I don't want it going any lower. I also pretty much can't afford to spend that much money, so I'll need to wait awhile on that one.VMPhil wrote:i just came across an excellent article about coilovers here:http://www.motivemag.com/pub/f...shtml
Even if you swap your header yes you have to locktite the butterfly screws. its paramount. i dont remember what the throttle body spacers cost. i believe RSB and FSBs cost about 90-100 a piece and coilovers go for about 700-1000 depending on brand. a set of Nismo coilovers i have seen to be as cheap as 760 (as clearance) but typically are about 850-950
UR pullies i dont find to be worth the purchase unless you have done everything else first cause for the cost to benefit ratio isnt that great.
What are the benefits of using the SS lines? Just improved brake sensitivity? I'm not sure if that's worth $80 to me right now...nametakennow wrote:I use my car every day with SS lines. They have no ill effects. The brakes are a bit more sensitive, but IMO, that's definitely not a bad thing.
The CF hood won't save a ton of weight because it has to be reinforced, but it saves some. VIS is the only company I know of that makes them.
There are customer-customizable shift boots out there. I don't remember the name of the company and can't seem to find it, Google it.
I'm curious to see what kind of kit and such your car has on it, have any pics you can post?
KYB GR2 are just like the oem shock, it's no good to buy when shock are still good for the run. A good combo would be KONI Yellow and Tanabe GF210(higher spring rate than the Eibach pro kit).nametakennow wrote:Coilovers will hurt ride quality significantly. Eibach Pro Kit springs and KYB GR2 shocks are probably the best choices for what you seem to be looking for. NISMO coilovers would be alright too, as they're very forgiving.
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