Good morning,

I recently purchased a 1996 Q45 with 130k on the odometer. I've owned a Y33 previously but really appreciate the earlier style so when I found one for a decent price that seemed to operate well I jumped at it. 100 miles later and we are inoperable.

Some of the known issues that I am currently working through are leaking valve cover gaskets (have done this job on the Y33), and the following codes:

Initial codes: P0136, P0400, P1400 - car ran and drove the 100 miles seemingly okay with all of the prior codes. I didn't have a chance to trouble shoot/test EGR system or o2 sensors while car would idle since most of that was just driving the car home. That and I wasn't anticipating it dying shortly after.

A short drive the next day to continue to identify issues left me needing a tow home after the car died while idling - I was able to pull the following codes after:

P0300, P0340.

Symptoms now are it is happy to start within a couple cranks however stutters, then shortly dies after.

My thoughts are to tackle the CPS P0340 code first as it seems unlikely that multiple coils would go bad to the point of misfire at the exact same time after driving with no symptoms this long, as well as the previous owner not having any symptoms (or not disclosing them, ha. He seemed genuine enough though).
Previous threads point to it being possible that enough oil has leaked that it is interfering with the CPS receiving the signals it needs to transmit to ECU. I have checked the CPS harness connector for voltage and confirmed terminal 2 is receiving battery voltage with ignition on.

Happy to take any suggestions on how you would go about resurrecting this G50. It is a relatively clean body and would like to see this thing back on the road to be enjoyed by the masses.

I would test the fuel pressure along with diagnosing the cam position sensor code.

Good morning... I have a '96 Q45. Bought new in 1995. Start searching and stocking parts because they are becoming few and far between. Good thing you are a DIY guy because I'm not and have put about 28 grand in this Q in the past 7 years. Still love it though.
Where are you located? Can you post pictures of your Q?

Good luck

sandydennis11 wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 13, 2021 8:58 am

Good morning... I have a '96 Q45. Bought new in 1995. Start searching and stocking parts because they are becoming few and far between. Good thing you are a DIY guy because I'm not and have put about 28 grand in this Q in the past 7 years. Still love it though.
Where are you located? Can you post pictures of your Q?

Good luck

Wow, I bet that's a gem. I'm in Arizona - I'll be happy to post a photo once it is able to be washed, lol!

Ryantzer wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 13, 2021 8:14 am

I would test the fuel pressure along with diagnosing the cam position sensor code.

Absolutely, this is on my list of diagnostics to run as well! If that was the issue I would be curious to know how that kicked back the misfire and CPS codes and randomly lost fuel pressure while idling after 100+ miles though!

garageascent wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 13, 2021 1:09 pm

Wow, I bet that's a gem. I'm in Arizona - I'll be happy to post a photo once it is able to be washed, lol!

I'm in AZ as well - North Phoenix specifically.

Ryantzer wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 13, 2021 2:05 pm

garageascent wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 13, 2021 1:09 pm

Wow, I bet that's a gem. I'm in Arizona - I'll be happy to post a photo once it is able to be washed, lol!

I'm in AZ as well - North Phoenix specifically.

Nice! I've seen a handful of G50 and Y33s around the state since I've become familiar with both. It would be awesome to organize a meet/cruise for everyone once the weather isn't so deadly

pulled the CPS today to inspect its condition. I couldn't identify any part numbers to verify brand or quality. I also noticed the o ring was broken and there was oil residue around the cover and on the actual rotor plate as well as multiple chips in the rotor plate although none of the chips interfere with the 1 degree or 90 degree slits.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/193452597 ... res/0rQ12f

feel free to look at the photos above - does anything look like it could've caused a stall issue? I'm wondering if that spec of oil was just enough to block the signals and the engine shut itself off because of this.

I bought many parts for Q through Infiniti of Scottsdale.
Talk to the parts department staff and find what they might have for your Q.
Especially ask if they have a package of all the small hose etc. that goes under the Plenum. It was 800 dollars years ago and my tech did a great job replacing everything.
Also look for a new Air Throttle Hose. I think I bought the last one in the world on Ebay last month. My Q failed the California smog test last month because of a crack in the Air Throttle hose. Also replace all the coils with OEM's only. Oh and try to buy the fuel control and the OEM fuel pump. GOOD LUCK

have fun. What color in and out?

sandydennis11 wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 13, 2021 5:53 pm

I bought many parts for Q through Infiniti of Scottsdale.
Talk to the parts department staff and find what they might have for your Q.
Especially ask if they have a package of all the small hose etc. that goes under the Plenum. It was 800 dollars years ago and my tech did a great job replacing everything.
Also look for a new Air Throttle Hose. I think I bought the last one in the world on Ebay last month. My Q failed the California smog test last month because of a crack in the Air Throttle hose. Also replace all the coils with OEM's only. Oh and try to buy the fuel control and the OEM fuel pump. GOOD LUCK

have fun. What color in and out?

To be honest I've called Infiniti of Scottsdale a dozen times or so and every time I've called they don't seem too interested in helping and are always tiers more expensive compared to other dealerships in the area or online for OEM parts. I'm not sure if I'm just not getting the right rep or if it's just been a bad day every time I call. Sad because I've heard nothing but good things about them and would love to have a good local source for parts.

If it turns out I have to replace the coils I'm going to swap to the Audi R8 coils via the performanceVH kit.

Pearl White exterior and tan interior (not sure of the correct name).

garageascent wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 13, 2021 6:13 pm

To be honest I've called Infiniti of Scottsdale a dozen times or so and every time I've called they don't seem too interested in helping and are always tiers more expensive compared to other dealerships in the area or online for OEM parts. I'm not sure if I'm just not getting the right rep or if it's just been a bad day every time I call. Sad because I've heard nothing but good things about them and would love to have a good local source for parts.

If it turns out I have to replace the coils I'm going to swap to the Audi R8 coils via the performanceVH kit.

Pearl White exterior and tan interior (not sure of the correct name).

IoS used to be the place to go. Joe moved on, nissan doesn't have love for their one time flagship.
Plus I think Joe once told me they weren't set up to do local sales, only out of state internet (might have been sales tax, but this was 15+ years ago so don't quote me).
For OE parts, your best bet is Amayama (Japan). Freight is pricey though, especially for heavy items.

The oil tracking is not good on your CAS, but I can't say that the one smear shown in the photo would be your culprit. but if there's a smear, then the optical sensor (not exposed in photo) might also be obscured. the voltage on the one pin is not sufficient indicator, you need to see "alternating current" as the wheel spins. Photo *looks* to be aftermarket. OE ones were hitachi and had a silver sticker on the forward face of the black cap. two versions. 96 would use the later version (only a single 4-pin connector on the CAS housing, vs. '94 and earlier with a second connector on a pigtail).

If you go the Audi R8 coils, be aware that 1) they are tall and you likely won't re-use the ornamental covers 2) the pinout is different than the VAG "shorty" coils.

vh45de-smart-coil-conversion-t623673.html

3Q Jay wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 13, 2021 9:48 pm

IoS used to be the place to go. Joe moved on, nissan doesn't have love for their one time flagship.
Plus I think Joe once told me they weren't set up to do local sales, only out of state internet (might have been sales tax, but this was 15+ years ago so don't quote me).
For OE parts, your best bet is Amayama (Japan). Freight is pricey though, especially for heavy items.

The oil tracking is not good on your CAS, but I can't say that the one smear shown in the photo would be your culprit. but if there's a smear, then the optical sensor (not exposed in photo) might also be obscured. the voltage on the one pin is not sufficient indicator, you need to see "alternating current" as the wheel spins. Photo *looks* to be aftermarket. OE ones were hitachi and had a silver sticker on the forward face of the black cap. two versions. 96 would use the later version (only a single 4-pin connector on the CAS housing, vs. '94 and earlier with a second connector on a pigtail).

If you go the Audi R8 coils, be aware that 1) they are tall and you likely won't re-use the ornamental covers 2) the pinout is different than the VAG "shorty" coils.

vh45de-smart-coil-conversion-t623673.html

Ah, that’s a good catch. I may have been misspeaking as the VH kit advises you can use the ornamental cover. Their coils are just labeled as “Imported Bosch Audi/VW coils” so they may be the shorty ones you are referring to.

I attempted to gently clean the CPS and realign/reinstall however was having a miserable time with aligning it. Thought I aligned it properly and started to tighten down the bolts and SNAP! One of the bolt aligning brackets on the CPS gave out.

Oh well, a new CPS sensor was inevitable. That’s what I get for trying to be cheap. I know better.

Debating at this point whether it’s worth it to do a long restoration and shoot to have it ready before next summer (main reason for buying the g50 was of course the body style but the stellar AC, AZ is unforgiving.) Or to try and get it back on the road ASAP at the expense of potentially having to go back in and refresh other items. I’m positive which one will have me swearing more.

If anyone has suggestions or advise on how to align the CPS with the camshaft without removing valve cover or radiator I am all ears.

My earlier post references me snapping the CPS because it was misaligned. I would like to put a new CPS in and turn over the car to see if that fixes the 0340 and 0300 codes and release full pressure before I start to disassemble the upper half of the engine for a refresh.

My understanding is I cannot release the fuel pressure without the CPS for the obvious reasons of a big hole where the CPS should go and no signal to relay to ECM

i'm confused. the slightly wiggly piece with the offset key that engages the camshaft is what broke? or one of the two 'ears' where the bolts with the 12mm head go?
you dont need to remove either the radiator or the valve cover. line up the offset key, insert CPS, snug it up. are you asking how to eyeball the base timing before you get a light on it?

3Q Jay wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:41 am

i'm confused. the slightly wiggly piece with the offset key that engages the camshaft is what broke? or one of the two 'ears' where the bolts with the 12mm head go?
you dont need to remove either the radiator or the valve cover. line up the offset key, insert CPS, snug it up. are you asking how to eyeball the base timing before you get a light on it?

One of the bolt ears snapped, which, out of the things that could snap or break I would much rather that then the offset key - I’m not really sure why I was having such a miserable time with lining up the offset key. I had no line of sight to see the camshaft but I could feel where the slots were for the offset key and couldn’t get it to line up. Tried rotating the offset key 180 and probably spent an hour doing so and just could not get it. Finally thought I did and put a little tension on the bolts and then snap, the bolt ear is sheared off. That tells me that I didn’t have it lined up and the bolt ear was the weakest point. I’m going to order a new CPS and give it another go, let’s hope I don’t break this one too.

ok. when the offset key is aligned, you can (will) push the ears all the way up against the upper chain cover by hand. the only resistance would be the rubber o-ring that seals the CPS body shaft.

PS- you could definitely run the car temporarily with just one of those ear bolts in (if you wanted to try your 'old' CPS again after cleaning it).

3Q Jay wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 14, 2021 12:06 pm

ok. when the offset key is aligned, you can (will) push the ears all the way up against the upper chain cover by hand. the only resistance would be the rubber o-ring that seals the CPS body shaft.

PS- you could definitely run the car temporarily with just one of those ear bolts in (if you wanted to try your 'old' CPS again after cleaning it).

That’s good advice. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge!
Will keep this thread updated in hopes it helps someone else revive their g50 later on.

you're welcome! Gotta do what we can to keep as many G50s representing as possible

UPDATE: I’m happy to say the G50 is back to an idling- on-its-own-status. I went back at the engine bay today and reconnected everything I unplugged from the harness, reinstalled the CPS with the broken ear, double checked everything vacuum and connection wise and turned it over and ta-da, idle!

I’m contributing the stall+no idle to the oil in the CPS. Still going to replace what is in there now due to the broken ear and crumbling o ring under the CPS cover but a successful idle is a step in the right direction! I didn’t mess with timing or idle prior to this video, that’ll be tackled over the weekend. Still absolutely going to be tearing down the valve covers and all valley parts to replace/refresh but want to get a good baseline before I do so in order to have a good before and after comparison.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/193452597@N02/C49Puu

good to hear.
And for those who believe in science....baselines are always appropriate!
I think you are wise to replace the CPS, as the oil didn't get in there without the internal shaft seal leaking.
I couldn't hear the sound very well in your video, but the throttle response seems reasonable. I did notice some 'jitter' in your tacho
Seemed too abrupt to me to be a misfire, more like signal noise. Could this also be CPS contamination related? maybe. Will be interesting to see after you swap CPS.

vcg on G50 significantly less friendly than the FGY33. Maybe you decided to remove upper plenum to do the left bank on your other car, which makes the job cake (other than the work to do the upper plenum). On g50, it IS possible to do the driver's side without removing the octoplenum, but you might consider doing that anyway if you are feeling ambitious, and want to tackle the hoses/knocks. If you DON'T remove the upper plenum, be aware that you will have to at least bend the fresh air pipe that bypasses the throttle body (under it) to snake the valve cover out.
At least you do on TCS cars, maybe its more user friendly on on a 96 and/or non-TCS car. For sure you don't have active hydraulics getting in the way.
One tip on the right bank--remove just the hold down bracket on the low pressure AC pipe (2 10mm heads) that will give you just enough wiggle room without bending the pipe.

3Q Jay wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 15, 2021 8:08 am

good to hear.
And for those who believe in science....baselines are always appropriate!
I think you are wise to replace the CPS, as the oil didn't get in there without the internal shaft seal leaking.
I couldn't hear the sound very well in your video, but the throttle response seems reasonable. I did notice some 'jitter' in your tacho
Seemed too abrupt to me to be a misfire, more like signal noise. Could this also be CPS contamination related? maybe. Will be interesting to see after you swap CPS.

vcg on G50 significantly less friendly than the FGY33. Maybe you decided to remove upper plenum to do the left bank on your other car, which makes the job cake (other than the work to do the upper plenum). On g50, it IS possible to do the driver's side without removing the octoplenum, but you might consider doing that anyway if you are feeling ambitious, and want to tackle the hoses/knocks. If you DON'T remove the upper plenum, be aware that you will have to at least bend the fresh air pipe that bypasses the throttle body (under it) to snake the valve cover out.
At least you do on TCS cars, maybe its more user friendly on on a 96 and/or non-TCS car. For sure you don't have active hydraulics getting in the way.
One tip on the right bank--remove just the hold down bracket on the low pressure AC pipe (2 10mm heads) that will give you just enough wiggle room without bending the pipe.

I will be removing the upper plenum just for the sake of replacing hoses and knock sensors underneath, send the intake manifold off to be cleaned, and of course to make the VCG job a little less painless in the long run. Did it this way on the FGY33 and although it was extra steps I think it was less frustration in the long run ha!

UPDATE: hooked up my OBDII scanner and identified at idle I am sitting at 650RPMS and 15 degrees of ignition timing. This is right in spec according to FSM. I think for the sake of troubleshooting other problems I can leave this as is and not further adjust timing/idle speed and begin to focus on other things!

https://flic.kr/p/2mbvWyg

3Q - the video you watched was it’s very first start up after being reassembled. Once I let it sit until warm and revved it to 4K for 10 seconds and to 6k and back it mellowed out right at 650RPMS +/-50. I imagine the spike and jumping around in my prior video could’ve been the ECU learning again since battery was disconnected?

UPDATE: took the G50 to emissions hoping to sneak on by, but I hadn't completed a full drive cycle since removing the battery and reinstalling so they sent me on my way and told me to come back.

Obviously I completed a drive cycle on the way home because my CEL came on and provided P0305 and P0400 codes. I'll take that over the prior codes of multiple misfire, CPS sensor malfunction, etc etc etc.

Now I am following the FSM for diagnosing the misfire issue however when I gauge the AC voltage with a multimeter at #1 terminal on the cylinder 5 coil plug I'm getting sporadic readings before it zeroes out. This is with connector disconnected and ignition on. Same thing was happening with coil 1 plug as well. Any tips on how to diagnose? Next step is just to swap the coils and see if the OBDII code moves to the cylinder I moved the suspected coil to but I would have better peace of mind if I could confirm via multimeter as well. Thanks!!!!!

It's hard to tell anything meaningful about 3-wire COP coils with a multimeter, the problems they have are usually in the driver FET and not the coil itself. So unless the FET is outright melted, problems are usually only detectable by scoping the secondary with a high-voltage probe. Nobody I know about bothers doing that, you just swap them and see if the problem migrates.

garageascent wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 15, 2021 5:57 pm

UPDATE: hooked up my OBDII scanner and identified at idle I am sitting at 650RPMS and 15 degrees of ignition timing. This is right in spec according to FSM. I think for the sake of troubleshooting other problems I can leave this as is and not further adjust timing/idle speed and begin to focus on other things!

Be careful about using the OBD scan to determine ACTUAL engine timing. The ECU is telling you what it is calling for on timing, but because your CAS is adjustable, it sets the mechanical portion of the base timing.
You still need a timing light to accurately determine this part.

3Q Jay wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 19, 2021 7:25 am

garageascent wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 15, 2021 5:57 pm

UPDATE: hooked up my OBDII scanner and identified at idle I am sitting at 650RPMS and 15 degrees of ignition timing. This is right in spec according to FSM. I think for the sake of troubleshooting other problems I can leave this as is and not further adjust timing/idle speed and begin to focus on other things!

Be careful about using the OBD scan to determine ACTUAL engine timing. The ECU is telling you what it is calling for on timing, but because your CAS is adjustable, it sets the mechanical portion of the base timing.
You still need a timing light to accurately determine this part.

That's good information - thanks! I've decided I'm going to go ahead and remove the intake manifold and replace the following parts while I'm in there:

*Compression test prior
*Intake manifold to runner gaskets and sleeves
*Runner to head gaskets
*Knock Sensors
*Coolant return hoses (replacing with silicone)
*Debating a fuel injector rebuild - I'm lucky enough to be next to AUS Injection and they absolutely crush it every time I drop off injectors to be rebuilt so seems silly to not do this while the manifold is off.
*Sending off my intake manifold to be professionally cleaned by a local shop. Hoping this will help clear out the crud from the EGR system and maybe help clear that code, although I am still going to be testing EGR component operations before I make the car undriveable for a bit to confirm whether something simply isn't working.
*Of course valve cover gaskets
*New spark plugs PFR5G-11
*throttle body to intake manifold gasket

Anything else major or recommended to replace while I'm in there? I'm using the FSM exploded view of the engine and seems I've got just about everything but the diagrams can sometimes be deceiving! I'm attempting to have this done in a weekend so am trying to avoid ripping things apart and then finding I forgot to order something.

There are a crap ton of additional coolant and air hoses under the plenum, and on my '90 most of them were rock hard. I replaced all of them hoping to prevent any vacuum leaks from interfering with the engine running properly.

I was impressed with AUS Injection when I got my injectors from them - the guy I spoke to was super knowledgeable, and their cleaning process includes backflushing the injectors which is not always a part of injector services done by other companies. With the Q45's reputation regarding fuel injectors I think it would be a wise idea to service them while it's apart.

garageascent wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 19, 2021 2:41 pm

I've decided I'm going to go ahead and remove the intake manifold and replace the following parts while I'm in there:

*Compression test prior
*Intake manifold to runner gaskets and sleeves
*Runner to head gaskets
*Knock Sensors
*Coolant return hoses (replacing with silicone)
*Debating a fuel injector rebuild - I'm lucky enough to be next to AUS Injection and they absolutely crush it every time I drop off injectors to be rebuilt so seems silly to not do this while the manifold is off.
*Sending off my intake manifold to be professionally cleaned by a local shop. Hoping this will help clear out the crud from the EGR system and maybe help clear that code, although I am still going to be testing EGR component operations before I make the car undriveable for a bit to confirm whether something simply isn't working.
*Of course valve cover gaskets
*New spark plugs PFR5G-11
*throttle body to intake manifold gasket

Anything else major or recommended to replace while I'm in there? I'm using the FSM exploded view of the engine and seems I've got just about everything but the diagrams can sometimes be deceiving! I'm attempting to have this done in a weekend so am trying to avoid ripping things apart and then finding I forgot to order something.

That's great! Fine way to get to know your VH45DE.
As Ryantzer said, there are a lot of other part number specific hoses under there--most now obsolete from US sources--can still get many from Japan.
The 8 upper to lower plenum sleeves (press fit inside rubber O-gaskets) don't need to be replaced, just clean them up.
Recommend you use genuine nissan fuel hose (NISS#A6440-N7686---there is a supersede number)and replace all of those under the octoplenum (4-places).
Bulk nissan vac hose #B2318-N3301. Sold in 5meter bundles, but I have a bunch--I'd trade you for some fuel hose if you buy the big spool of that.
You'll want the AAC valve gasket #23785-60U01 hard to find, but I have a spare.
EGR to upper plenum gasket #14719-W7001
your lower runner to head gaskets are: #14035-1P100 those are getting hard to find. caution that the zenki's used a different lower runner and the gaskets are different.
Watch out for counterfeit knock sensors bearing nissan looking stickers--those are all over fleabay. Same part number as your FGY33 had though.

3Q Jay wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 19, 2021 4:21 pm

That's great! Fine way to get to know your VH45DE.
As Ryantzer said, there are a lot of other part number specific hoses under there--most now obsolete from US sources--can still get many from Japan.
The 8 upper to lower plenum sleeves (press fit inside rubber O-gaskets) don't need to be replaced, just clean them up.
Recommend you use genuine nissan fuel hose (NISS#A6440-N7686---there is a supersede number)and replace all of those under the octoplenum (4-places).
Bulk nissan vac hose #B2318-N3301. Sold in 5meter bundles, but I have a bunch--I'd trade you for some fuel hose if you buy the big spool of that.
You'll want the AAC valve gasket #23785-60U01 hard to find, but I have a spare.
EGR to upper plenum gasket #14719-W7001
your lower runner to head gaskets are: #14035-1P100 those are getting hard to find. caution that the zenki's used a different lower runner and the gaskets are different.
Watch out for counterfeit knock sensors bearing nissan looking stickers--those are all over fleabay. Same part number as your FGY33 had though.

I have a local source for both the vacuum and fuel genuine Nissan hose - there's a shop that specializes in z cars and they happen to sell both by the foot for a reasonable price vs the large spools I find elsewhere. I'll keep you in mind though if I do go the spool route!

UPDATE: Did a compression test with all spark plugs and coils out. cylinders tested equally at 180 after four cranks and if I cranked until the PSI maxed out it was in the 210 range. Does the FSM reference 185 as "standard" compression but it is okay if the cylinders max out at a higher compression? With the compression tool I was using I was not able to successfully test cylinder #3 and #8 due to my tool hitting one of the hard lines running under the TB and the ABS around #8 however all others tested proper include #5 which is where I am getting a misfire code from.

You weren't kidding with the number of hoses under the plenum. This is a whole different animal compared to the FGY33! Is there anything that can be eliminated in an effort to simplify underneath the plenum? I noticed the coolant runs to the intake and throttle body. Can someone elaborate why this is necessary? My understanding is this is sometimes a system geared towards cold climates where parts need to be heated in order to not stick/work properly. If so can I safely cap these with silicone caps and rid myself of these lines (cold and Arizona rarely intertwine HA!)?

I'm sending off the intake manifold and runners to be professionally cleaned to rid the internals of the carbon build up from the EGR and PCV systems. Given this is my hobby car and not a daily driver I get some freedom in emissions control and restrictions. I've been considering at the very least running a catch can between the PCV valve and intake manifold in an effort to keep the intake manifold clean. I'm reaching out to Radium Engineering with the FSM diagrams of the PCV system in an effort to get their opinion on the best way to plumb in the catch can system of theirs.

If I wanted to consider removing the EGR system and plugging the exhaust header + putting a delete plate and gasket on the intake manifold is there a resistor or other way to trick the ECU into thinking it is there? I know this is common on other builds. I wonder if the S13 guys have done this with their swapped VH builds.

Going through the engine one final time tonight to get a list of all the gaskets/parts I need so I can place my order tomorrow! The plenum is off as well as the fuel injectors and I am close to being ready to remove VC and clean, clean, clean!

garageascent wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 26, 2021 4:40 pm

UPDATE: Did a compression test with all spark plugs and coils out. cylinders tested equally at 180 after four cranks and if I cranked until the PSI maxed out it was in the 210 range. Does the FSM reference 185 as "standard" compression but it is okay if the cylinders max out at a higher compression?

The only common cause of above-normal compression is carbon buildup on the piston crowns. You might want to consider a serious de-carboning once it's back together.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 26, 2021 5:24 pm

garageascent wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 26, 2021 4:40 pm

UPDATE: Did a compression test with all spark plugs and coils out. cylinders tested equally at 180 after four cranks and if I cranked until the PSI maxed out it was in the 210 range. Does the FSM reference 185 as "standard" compression but it is okay if the cylinders max out at a higher compression?

The only common cause of above-normal compression is carbon buildup on the piston crowns. You might want to consider a serious de-carboning once it's back together.

Will do!

Alright guys - if you were a plenum gasket ring (the metal rings for the upper runner to intake manifold) where would you expect to be after a fumble a falling off the upper runners?

I had the plenum off and was in the process of pulling the runners off and heard the sound of the metal ring falling after I bumped one of the runners (runner closest to pass valve cover on front side of engine). Only found one of the two that dropped.

I removed the lower oil pan plastic cover in case it dropped and was resting there. No such luck. At this time I didn’t have any of the runners off and all of my intake valves are closed so it couldn’t have fallen into the engine. Any ideas?

Would you consider looking in and around the pulleys/timing cover? I’m pulling the radiator so there’s more room to look but I don’t like the idea of just ordering another one and cranking the engine over with the potential for that ring to be somewhere unfavorable.

Is it plausible that I am mistaking and it didn’t have a metal ring there to begin with? Since starting this year down I’ve noticed missing fuel rail bolts and the fuel rail spacers sitting in the valley, so I believe someone has been in here before.

Second question is on my FGY33 there is a gasket that goes between the two coolant flanges in the valley. I noticed the FSM only calls for Nissan liquid gasket. I have some but I was curious if you would recommend to move along as the FSM says or consider sourcing the metal gaskets? I believe they were only a few $ on IPD so it’s not a huge hit to the wallet if I get them and they don’t work.

Got to give you credit to get that 96Q back on the on 'the road again'.
open that wallet as I have done for 26 years.