New Infiniti (1996) Owner. Few issues

[Leuthesius]

I am now the proud owner of a 1996 Infiniti J30. I bought it with 116,000 miles for $2950. From what I've seen, that was a steal. :3

Now I have a few problems with this vehicle, which is probably why I was able to purchase it for the price I gave for it, and the possibility that the previous owner didn't know what he had.

Problem #1:

Lower ball joints: I have taken a look at my suspension, and I have spoken to an infiniti dealer. They have told me that I have to replace the entire control arm to take care of a ball joint that I should be able to buy for all of $20. Now... $200 for a control arm, or $20 for a ball joint. Let me think?

The ball joints clearly have a seed clamp, which means that it is being held in, which means that they can be pressed out/pressed in. But I cannot find an aftermarket seller of these ball joints anywhere. They all say you have to replace the entire friggin' thing. Is there somewhere where I can get the exact specs of the ball joint so that I can match it to another model/make vehicle and therefore save myself $800 for the whole car? I really do not want to replace every control arm when I can just replace ball joints.

Problem #25 Link suspension? What in tarnation is that friggin thing that connects between the strut and the control arm that looks like to ball joint ends? No clue what that even is. The 1995 Altima I have doesn't have anything like that. No clue what that thing is....

Problem #3Knocking. I'm getting a strange knocking in the engine that has gradually progressed towards "not good" as I've driven it over the last couple of weeks or so. I can tell that it's coming from the middle cylinder on the left side of the car, but I cannot tell if the knocking is fuel related (I fill it with premium), fuel injector related, or if its the lifters knocking or the valves tapping. It does not sound like I've thrown a rod, thank god, but it still unnerves me. Also, as this sound has progressively gotten worse, my fuel economy has steadily dropped. I was getting 29.1mpg (which is wayyyyyyy more than this car is supposed to get) when I Was bringing it home, but am now lucky to get 18-19. I checked the compression in every cylinder and I'm getting 10.5 or better on all of them.

I just finished a full tune up of the vehicle. and I used motorflush to clean the engine out before the change.3qts castrol gtx + 1qt Lucas + wix filter for the engine (is this a 4.5 qt engine?)7.5qts DexIII Transmission fluid + 24oz Lucas stabilizerLucas Rack&Pinion fluid for the power steering (it was dry when I bought it)Champion (OE) spark plugsTrans-Cool Transmission cooler (since these things are notorius for the transmission overheating and seizing from what I've heard/read) located behind the A/C Condenser.Replaced all of the belts.

Do I need different spark plugs? Do I need to do something else? This is a completely different beast from my 95' Altima GXE, that's for sure. But its sould is still a nissan so I'm hoping I can work with it.

Oh, and it's a good thing that you guys have an FAQ for the fuel filter issue. I about had an aneurism trying to get that damned thing off....where exactly is that fuse?
Modified by Leuthesius at 5:37 PM 3/11/2008

[misfit6794]

The ball joints are cheap, the labor is not.

As far as the engine, I put ngk iridiums in mine without problem, but some people have problems when they don't use platnum tipped plugs, there is even a factory sticker under the hood telling you to not use anything else. THere can be a ton of things that are causing your motor problems. I had a similiar issue, and it turned out to be 2 bad injectors. Replacing those are a pain. The best thing you could do is pull the codes to see whats going on.

[rclem7]

The only suggestion I have for you at this point is for the engine knock. I found somewhere in this forum where someone mentioned Auto-rx for issuse with the rear main seal which I am having with my car. As I was reading all the things it was good for I decided to give it a try. Basicly, its an engine cleaner, and your problem could simply be sluge or other gunk. I also had a mild cold engine knock in my car when I bought it (only a month ago). I put in Auto-rx two weeks ago and already me engin is running smoother. The cold start knock is all but gone. It used to last 20-40 seconds, but now last only three seconds tops. My milage went from 24 to 26. So far I like it. Might be worth looking into. Kinda expensive, but for me it was worth the chance to save nearly $400 to replace the rear seal, and get a clean engine at the same time. http://www.auto-rx.com

[Leuthesius]

The ball joints are cheap, the labor is not.

As far as the engine, I put ngk iridiums in mine without problem, but some people have problems when they don't use platnum tipped plugs, there is even a factory sticker under the hood telling you to not use anything else. THere can be a ton of things that are causing your motor problems. I had a similiar issue, and it turned out to be 2 bad injectors. Replacing those are a pain. The best thing you could do is pull the codes to see whats going on.

I'm using Champion Double Platinum tipped plugs. I'm going to guess that that's a bad idea and I should go switch to NGK Iridiums or Platinums. Should I get the double tipped NGK's or the Irridium V's?

As for the ball joints. I need the part number. I have to know where I can buy the parts. I have a ball joint press and can do the work myself. I don't want to pay labor where I don't have to.

The only suggestion I have for you at this point is for the engine knock. I found somewhere in this forum where someone mentioned Auto-rx for issuse with the rear main seal which I am having with my car. As I was reading all the things it was good for I decided to give it a try. Basicly, its an engine cleaner, and your problem could simply be sluge or other gunk. I also had a mild cold engine knock in my car when I bought it (only a month ago). I put in Auto-rx two weeks ago and already me engin is running smoother. The cold start knock is all but gone. It used to last 20-40 seconds, but now last only three seconds tops. My milage went from 24 to 26. So far I like it. Might be worth looking into. Kinda expensive, but for me it was worth the chance to save nearly $400 to replace the rear seal, and get a clean engine at the same time.[URL]http://www.auto-rx.com[/quote[/URL]]

I will certainly think about that. I used Motor Flush before I changed the oil, and I always use Lucas in place of a quart of oil to maintain seals in the engine.

What I'm looking into for better fuel economy is a fuel heater. It's a little copper tube that runs fuel around the coolant line (it takes place of a piece of the hose) which heats the fuel up for better atomization. That would be neat. But first, the plugs, and the filter. Maybe I have just 'simply the wrong plugs', because the knock wasn't there before I switched. That could be my entire problem.....

[gr8scott72]

Wow, were do I begin?

First off, welcome to the board!

I am now the proud owner of a 1996 Infiniti J30. I bought it with 116,000 miles for $2950. From what I've seen, that was a steal. :3

Yes, sounds like a great deal. (I should know, I sell em for a living.)

Now I have a few problems with this vehicle, which is probably why I was able to purchase it for the price I gave for it, and the possibility that the previous owner didn't know what he had.

Problem #1:

Lower ball joints: I have taken a look at my suspension, and I have spoken to an infiniti dealer. They have told me that I have to replace the entire control arm to take care of a ball joint that I should be able to buy for all of $20. Now... $200 for a control arm, or $20 for a ball joint. Let me think?

The ball joints clearly have a seed clamp, which means that it is being held in, which means that they can be pressed out/pressed in. But I cannot find an aftermarket seller of these ball joints anywhere. They all say you have to replace the entire friggin' thing. Is there somewhere where I can get the exact specs of the ball joint so that I can match it to another model/make vehicle and therefore save myself $800 for the whole car? I really do not want to replace every control arm when I can just replace ball joints.

I've never replaced the ball joints on either of my Js so I don't know what to tell you about that.

The control arm you are talking about, is it the one going from the wheel up and toward the front of the car? If so, those are notorious for going out and the symptoms will be loud clunking over any bumps. You can buy just the bushings from the dealership and just take them somewhere and have the bushings pressed in.

Problem #25 Link suspension? What in tarnation is that friggin thing that connects between the strut and the control arm that looks like to ball joint ends? No clue what that even is. The 1995 Altima I have doesn't have anything like that. No clue what that thing is....

Don't know which you are talking about.

Problem #3Knocking. I'm getting a strange knocking in the engine that has gradually progressed towards "not good" as I've driven it over the last couple of weeks or so. I can tell that it's coming from the middle cylinder on the left side of the car, but I cannot tell if the knocking is fuel related (I fill it with premium), fuel injector related, or if its the lifters knocking or the valves tapping. It does not sound like I've thrown a rod, thank god, but it still unnerves me. Also, as this sound has progressively gotten worse, my fuel economy has steadily dropped. I was getting 29.1mpg (which is wayyyyyyy more than this car is supposed to get) when I Was bringing it home, but am now lucky to get 18-19. I checked the compression in every cylinder and I'm getting 10.5 or better on all of them.

Your car was rated 18 city and 23 hwy brand new. I really think there is something fishy about your 29.1 mpg number.

Your 18-19 mpg is dead on and not bad (for this car.)

I just finished a full tune up of the vehicle. and I used motorflush to clean the engine out before the change.3qts castrol gtx + 1qt Lucas + wix filter for the engine (is this a 4.5 qt engine?)7.5qts DexIII Transmission fluid + 24oz Lucas stabilizerLucas Rack&Pinion fluid for the power steering (it was dry when I bought it)

I love the Lucas products but one question, if you are spending all this time and money (Lucas stuff aint cheap) then why not go ahead and use synthetic oils?

Don't forget to flush the rear diff fluid.

Champion (OE) spark plugs

Those are not OE

Trans-Cool Transmission cooler (since these things are notorius for the transmission overheating and seizing from what I've heard/read) located behind the A/C Condenser.

This is a good thing.

Replaced all of the belts.

Including the timing belt?

Do I need different spark plugs? Do I need to do something else? This is a completely different beast from my 95' Altima GXE, that's for sure. But its sould is still a nissan so I'm hoping I can work with it.

Get the OEM NGK plugs.

Oh, and it's a good thing that you guys have an FAQ for the fuel filter issue. I about had an aneurism trying to get that damned thing off....where exactly is that fuse?

[gr8scott72]

The only suggestion I have for you at this point is for the engine knock. I found somewhere in this forum where someone mentioned Auto-rx for issuse with the rear main seal which I am having with my car. As I was reading all the things it was good for I decided to give it a try. Basicly, its an engine cleaner, and your problem could simply be sluge or other gunk. I also had a mild cold engine knock in my car when I bought it (only a month ago). I put in Auto-rx two weeks ago and already me engin is running smoother. The cold start knock is all but gone. It used to last 20-40 seconds, but now last only three seconds tops. My milage went from 24 to 26. So far I like it. Might be worth looking into. Kinda expensive, but for me it was worth the chance to save nearly $400 to replace the rear seal, and get a clean engine at the same time. http://www.auto-rx.com

So I actually convinced someone on here to try it?

The before and after pictures on the Auto RX site of the 240sx showing under the valve cover astonished me.

[gr8scott72]

What I'm looking into for better fuel economy is a fuel heater. It's a little copper tube that runs fuel around the coolant line (it takes place of a piece of the hose) which heats the fuel up for better atomization. That would be neat.

You could put 10 of those on your car along with 2 turbonators and a tornado and a e-ram charger and it won't do a durn thing for your mileage.

The easiest way to drastically up your mileage is sell your J and get a Honda.

[StevieRaySTL]

The easiest way to drastically up your mileage is sell your J and get a Honda.

-- Zomfg, is the gr81 fallible? Don't get me wrong I love Honda, actually been in the Honda camp longer, but... did you just advise someone to buy a Honda? Really I'm just messin' with you, usually your answers are less broad, moe specific, structured and scientific. You and Yoda have great info. My Honda (Acura Legend) gets almost the exact same mileage as my J30, but I guess it is two-tenths of a liter larger, so mileage is tecnically better. Either way Honda and Nissan pwn all others, eff gas mileage.

-- Op, sorry for the thread jack. GL, hope all goes well, there is good help to be had here.

[misfit6794]

The guys over on the bronco forums swear by sea-foam for cleaning out the engine. The guys on the caddy forums think its BS. But I just pulled apart my engine that had 117 thousand miles and you wouldn't believe the amount of crap on the valve covers, intake manifold, and egr tubes.

[yodawill2000]

I'm doing the BG procedure on My J this weekend.Just need to figure out how to do both sides as the brake vacuum port is the only easily accessible input.Got the 3 can kit from a Saturn dealer here in town for 34 bux.Throttle body cleaner, Intake cleaner (Like Seafoam) and a can of BG44k for the Fuel tank.


Modified by yodawill2000 at 8:49 AM 3/12/2008

[rclem7]

So I actually convinced someone on here to try it?

The before and after pictures on the Auto RX site of the 240sx showing under the valve cover astonished me.

Yes you did! I figured $77 for four bottles vs. $400 to change the rear main was worth a shot. And if nothing else, I will have a clean engine right? And beleive it or not, I used Sea Foam to flush the engine first. I also used it in the gas tank when I first bought the car. It's hard to say, but seems to work pretty good. I'll keep you updated on wheater Auto-rx works on the seal or not, will probably be 3 more months before I know for sure.

[yodawill2000]

Ive heard from Q45Tech that we have Vitron seals that aren't affected by additives like normal seals.

[Leuthesius]

Wow, were do I begin?

First off, welcome to the board!

Thanks! Glad to be here. This is already an incredible resource and I'm going to problem even frequent the Altima part of this board (provided it's there)

Quote »Yes, sounds like a great deal. (I should know, I sell em for a living.)[/quote]Good I'm going to talk to a guy about the little dents and dings in this thing and get them all fixed up once I've got the suspension taken care of.

Quote »I've never replaced the ball joints on either of my Js so I don't know what to tell you about that.[/quote]Mine look like they're close to being slag.

Quote »The control arm you are talking about, is it the one going from the wheel up and toward the front of the car? If so, those are notorious for going out and the symptoms will be loud clunking over any bumps. You can buy just the bushings from the dealership and just take them somewhere and have the bushings pressed in.[/quote]I am getting a loud clunking over bumps. Does this mean that I need the bushings and not the ball joints? If I can avoid the full cost of paying for a control arm, I'm going to do it. ---Actually, just looked under the front of my car. The weird thing I don't know what it does is attached to the control arm going towards the front of the car. No clue what that thing is. Looks like a stabilizer bar of some kind...

Quote »Your car was rated 18 city and 23 hwy brand new. I really think there is something fishy about your 29.1 mpg number.[/quote]I filled my car in Garland, TX before the trip back to Wichita, and I filled it up about 130 miles later and the figure I got (and I do mileage checks often, btw) was 29.1 mpg. It seemed fishy to me, too. But later I got 27.6mpg, and then 24.2 mpg, and then 22ish.

Quote »Your 18-19 mpg is dead on and not bad (for this car.)[/quote]The sacrifices one makes for luxury.

Quote »I love the Lucas products but one question, if you are spending all this time and money (Lucas stuff aint cheap) then why not go ahead and use synthetic oils?[/quote]My non-financial advisory job is a parts store since my financial bit is commission only and inconsistent. I only pay $7 a bottle thereabouts. Also, if you're lucky, you can find Lucas for $7 at weird places like Dollar General.

Quote »Don't forget to flush the rear diff fluid.[/quote]That's one of the next things to do.

Quote »Including the timing belt?[/quote]Nope. Once I get the specs on the engine and figure out how to take it apart without killing my car, I'll replace my timing belt.

Quote »Get the OEM NGK plugs.[/quote]I picked up 6 NGK PFR5B-11's, Laser Double Platinums today and installed them. The weird noise in my engine didn't get any better or worse, so I took it to a mechanic to listen to it. He hooked the scanner up to it and B2S2 (drivers side) O2 sensor is running incredibly rich. There's my fuel issue. He also said that the light tapping in the engine is more or less normal for J's.

Since my compression is good, and I've got new mostly everything on/in the engine except the timing belt (is it a belt or a chain?), and my transmission is now running supposedly cooler, I think I may be good, more or less.

I just need part numbers for the suspension bits so that I don't have to replace whole control arms, an O2 sensor, new tires, an alignment, and a little bit of bodywork and my car will be so very very lovely.

I've already named her Rosalinde.



EDIT:OH! And one other thing that I keep forgetting to mention: My temperature gauge flitters like a mad epileptic queen bee on PCP and X. Is it my thermostat that's the problem (because she seems to be running alright on the temperature side) or is there a relay switch that I need to check and replace?
Modified by Leuthesius at 4:31 PM 3/12/2008

[Leuthesius]

The ball joints are cheap, the labor is not.

As far as the engine, I put ngk iridiums in mine without problem, but some people have problems when they don't use platnum tipped plugs, there is even a factory sticker under the hood telling you to not use anything else. THere can be a ton of things that are causing your motor problems. I had a similiar issue, and it turned out to be 2 bad injectors. Replacing those are a pain. The best thing you could do is pull the codes to see whats going on.

Where do I find the ball joints? I've spoken to a dealer and they want to sell me the whole control arm. I need specs, or other vehicles that the ball joints match so that I can lie to a parts guy.

[Leuthesius]

I had the front end and all of the suspension checked today. I need to replace those two things that connect towards the front from the control arms.

What are they? Don't even know what they are!

[gr8scott72]

I had the front end and all of the suspension checked today. I need to replace those two things that connect towards the front from the control arms.

What are they? Don't even know what they are!

They are tension arms. Look at the fuzzycats.com site under tie rod replacement.

[Leuthesius]

Where do I buy them? I'm not finding anything I'm comfortable with. I need two stabilizer rods and tension arms according to fuzzycats. But the only one I can find is frigging $129 on Everything Infiniti and I'm not even getting a description. It just says "2 way steering" when I try to find the arm.

Can I just replace the bushing inside? I've found a "radius rod bushing" at the parts pin that looks like it could be pressed in.

Augh! Frustrating! >.<

[gr8scott72]

Where do I buy them? I'm not finding anything I'm comfortable with. I need two stabilizer rods and tension arms according to fuzzycats. But the only one I can find is frigging $129 on Everything Infiniti and I'm not even getting a description. It just says "2 way steering" when I try to find the arm.

Can I just replace the bushing inside? I've found a "radius rod bushing" at the parts pin that looks like it could be pressed in.

Augh! Frustrating! >.<

I told you in an earlier post on this thread that you could replace just the bushings. I got mine AT the local Infiniti dealership and found a shop to press them in for me.

[Gerardjg]

I got the bushings at rockauto.com $33.00 each spicer brand and they came in a spicer box and inside were OEM Nissan bags with the Nissan part sticker. They called them strut rod on their website. I have access to a press so that part I did myself.

[RZAA36]

everythinginfiniti.com call then up and ask for dan or justin they can get all the parts for a great price!!

[Leuthesius]

yeah, I just bought two from rockauto.com as well. $67 for the set, I'll try and do the pressing myself. I'm wondering if a U-joint press set (for ball joints) will suffice?

Unfortunately, it'll be 12 days before they get here. Means I have to go buy new front tires and run them with the bad front end... nylon and metal showing already (I hadn't noticed it).

New O2 sensor coming too. wee.