Where do I start with tuning?

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WDRacing
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Sorry I didn't get back to you. I'm in the middle of moving into a new house. So life is a bit crazy.

I've never run my MAF in a blow-thru setup. I know lots of other people have and they haven't had any issues that I know of.

The way a MAF works is kinda simple. It tries to keep the wire element at a certain temperature. The amount of voltage required to keep the element at that temp is what is sent back to the ECU. More voltage equals more load, when combined with throttle position and intake air temp the ECU determines what load map it should use for timing and fuel.

Moving the MAF has to affect the readings. I just don't know how much.

If you keep the draw-thru then you definitely need to route the BOV back to the system. This is referred to as the non-vented type.

Glad she's running well now though!


SirVemup
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Yea i am sticking with non-vented draw thru. Congrads on your new home and thanks for all the support. U da man. :)

mythic540
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wow talk about an old thread lol well fellas I dont have my ka-t anymore, blew a head gasket and traded it like an idiot for a working car. But now I got myself a KADE so I'm back in the game and I have a ton of questions :naughty: but obviously I will be posting those elsewhere, glad this thread was of help to others too.

SirVemup
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Ok, so my SOHC is freaking killin em on the streets in the suburbs, but on the strip in down town Detroit them boys are running some modded V8's. I want to up my boost to keep up. I still have no tune, just running the FMU. I read that 8:1 FMU is good for 8 psi. If i recalibrate the FMU to a 12:1 and boosted it up to 12psi am i entering the danger zone?
I did the math and found out that with a 12:1 i would be pushing over 100 lbs pressure in my fuel rail, but i don't know if that is good or bad or why.

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WDRacing
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Switching to a 12:1 ratio fmu will only make you run really rich. It won't allow you to run more boost, the 8:1 is already handling that. I would not run more than 8-10 psi without some sort of real management.

SirVemup
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So ready to drop the FMU and get a real tune from JWT. I have access to a J30 MAF and some 320cc injectors. Am i missing anything to get to around 250-300hp?
I haven't bought anything yet, just located them from a local junk yard. I would love some input from you. If those parts are no good please let me know and offer up some of your infinite wisdom.

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WDRacing
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320cc injectors are a waste. I'm not sure JWT even has a tune to match those. The best way to pick out a setup is to first...

1, Establish a realistic horse power goal and then assure to buy parts that go about 25% further than required. IE, if 440cc injectors flow enough to support your goals, get 550's instead.

2, Look at the various available ROM tunes from the various tuners. It appears that you have to call JWT for the details on their tunes.

3, A tune is made for specific items. IE, Z32 MAF, 550cc injectors. So finding a tune first and then buying the appropriate parts is the best way to go about things.

That cover it? Feel free to ask away man.

SirVemup
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WDRacing wrote: finding a tune first and then buying the appropriate parts is the best way to go about things.
Brilliant.

SirVemup
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Got in touch with Ben from JWT. He offered a couple options. First he stated that i could push the 250hp mark with a tune, OEM injectors, and OEM MAF. Question: IYO, do you think that tune would translate into a lower 1/4 mile time than my current set-up? 8:1 FUM, 255 pump, stock stock stock, @8psi. Best 1/4 mile: 14 flat.

His second option was what you just posted, 550 injectors, Z32 MAF. He stated that i would be able to push the 300hp mark with that set-up. IYO, do you think i could get into the 12's/low 13's at the drag strip with this set-up?

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If you're not going to upgrade the injectors and MAF, then just keep the FMU.

I would go with the suggested combination, 550's/Z32 MAF. Do you have a wideband? If not, get one. The 550/Z32 tune should let you run 14 psi without any issue. But I really like to know where my AFR's sit.

I would suggest a single stage DIY water injection system also. It's just a safety thing. Have it come on at 7 psi or so. Set it and forget it...just don't forget to fill it...lol.

As far as times go you're going to be traction limited. So get the new tune sorted out and then work on dropping your 60' time.

SirVemup
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I am going to go big next spring. Winters coming so the 240 is about to go into storage. And for sure when i get that high hp tune i am going to get a WB, oil cooler, bigger radiator, and check into that water/methanol system. Did you ever do a write up on that system? Please send or post the link if you did.

Check out this pic of the 240 with my 16 year old son driving. He ran a 15 flat 1/4 mile. Thanks for all your input.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/85520473@N08/15559800632/

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WDRacing
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That's a cool pic right there!

Let me know when you're thinking about the water/alky injection. Might as well make a new thread about it to discuss all the various options.

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Wc240
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i know its a few months out. but, not much activity in this forum anymore.
im on a dohc. t3 .63ar with a log manifold. similar to your setup. running Nismotronic (give them a look. awesome for the money) went on the dyno but was cut short. at 7psi my 370cc sr injectors were tapping 108% duty cycle(yep) and making me spike from 11.5(where i wanted to be) all the way to 12.6 afr( where no motor wants to be)
so, t3, 370cc sr injectors, 7psi=NOT enough fuel. fuel pressure was at 68psi.
so first, get real tuning(cant say enough about nismotronic) but second, get bigger injectors. 370 is nowhere enough to fuel a t3. even those who have done it havent really looked. at 5psi i still was at 98% duty cycle.
im putting in 550cc and see where im at


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