Where do I start with tuning?

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WDRacing
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Yeah....do a google search about Emance rom tunes before you make that purchase ok?

Yes you need another spot for the wideband.

Check out These No Weld O2 Sensor Mounts. Wish these were around a few years back.


RiverCitySX
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WDRacing wrote:Yeah....do a google search about Emance rom tunes before you make that purchase ok?

Yes you need another spot for the wideband.

Check out These No Weld O2 Sensor Mounts. Wish these were around a few years back.
That's pretty awesome.

mythic540
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Well guys, after a ton of google research and advice from you and a lot of other great knowledgeable car guys around the webs, I finally got my engine up and running smooth with peace of mind. I ended up going with the Emance ECU, bought it straight from him tuned for 300 bucks and I couldn't be happier. Idles smooth and has no issues as of now. Drove it around for a while to break it in and its going like a champ!! Only issue is my engine stalls from a high rpm drop into neutral but after talking to Jason and searching on google it seems that it's because my BOV isn't recirculated. Thats gonna be next on my list obviously lol. I definitely recommend Jason at Emance, awesome guy, talked to him personally and he's a huge help!! Emance is a good choice in my book. I also went with the innovate wideband o2, funny thing is that I bought it off ebay, which was listed as the LC1, but when I got my package I was surprised to see they sent me the LC2! I got 14-16 AFR's at idle and cruise and a good 11-12 at mild boost. Still have to see what they do at full boost but first I gotta make sure all my engine components are in good order before I go boost happy. I can't thank you enough WDRacing for all your help!! You really showed me the light to a lot of things in the turbo world and I am only learning more! If only money wasn't a limitation I could do so much with my car but baby steps I say. Thanks so much!

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Glad to hear she's up and running well dude! Get the BOV recirc'd and you'll solve that stalling issue, I had the exact same problem.

Keep us updated on your progress!

mythic540
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So after driving around for a good couple weeks I am glad to say she's running fine, AFR's stay at an average 14.6 and between 10-12 at full boost. Emance sure hooked me up with a good tune!! I'm posting a few pics up of my engine bay, I wanna get your guys opinions or advice on what to look into investing in, I wanna get an oil cooler for starters but I'm open to other suggestions if you guys have them.
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I'd start buying things to make your 240 as reliable as possible. Stuff like gauges, various coolers, remote oil filter, and save up for a decent water injection kit. Knock meter is another pretty cool thing to have.

Also, swap out all of your fluids from the diff to the brakes.

There is always suspension stuff that needs changed as well.

If you have extra money the 240 will be more than happy to eat it for you bud!

RiverCitySX
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WDRacing wrote:I'd start buying things to make your 240 as reliable as possible. Stuff like gauges, various coolers, remote oil filter, and save up for a decent water injection kit. Knock meter is another pretty cool thing to have.

Also, swap out all of your fluids from the diff to the brakes.

There is always suspension stuff that needs changed as well.

If you have extra money the 240 will be more than happy to eat it for you bud!
No doubt! :biggrin:

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for insurance/piece of mind, id get a decent turbo blanket and some heat wrap. (at least for me) thats pretty damn close to the BMC soaking up all that heat.

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Some sort of heat shield is definitely a good idea. Unless you enjoy having the BMC melt...

SirVemup
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Great post for us boosted single slammers. Thanks WD. In the pic i noticed a crack in the intake tube (red circle) what is this tube? I just noticed i have the same crack in my SOHC. I tapped it up with wire tape but i am worried that it will melt off and create a vacuum leak. I haven't run the car since i taped it (waiting on a clutch fork pivot ball) :facepalm:

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I can't see the image, but I would say that electrical tape won't work well under the hood. I would use some JB Weld. That stuff can fix almost anything.

SirVemup
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Sorry i don't know how to embed photos. But in the last pic posted by mythics540 lower right underneath the strut support there are 2 lines running from the inside of the intake. If you look close you can see that the bigger tube has a little crack in it. What is this tube? And JB Weld will work on the rubber tube also?

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I got it.

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Got it? Is it the line that connects to the rusted looking thing that is threaded into the intake manifold? If so that's the PCV valve. That's pretty important as it's going to create a bad vacuum leak if it's not fixed.

SirVemup
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I want to change the PVC hose but i am not sure how. It looks like a have to remove the entire intake to get to the other end of the hose, do i? I took the PVC off and inspected it and it looked clean just the valve was sliding back and fourth freely (rattled when i shook it) is the PVC valve still good?
Another quick question if you don't mind
I have removed all my emissions and fabricated a plate to cover the EGR. When i dropped the transmission yesterday i noticed the swirl valve was still there with a vacuum line hanging lose from it. From what i have read the SCV should not be removed unless i take the secondary butterfly valve out of the intake. So does the swirl valve need a vacuum source for now (butterfly still in intake)?

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I'm an S14 guy, no stupid butterfly valves. So I'm not all that sure on their correct function. It would make sense to me though, that they would need to have a vac signal to function correctly.

The PCV system is a giant PITA. It's awful to swap the hoses. When I swapped my motor, I went ahead and did every hose on the engine while it was out. Lots of people tape their hoses if they are difficult to change.

http://www.amazon.com/RESCUE-TAPE-Self- ... B00AZOK55G, Or search around and see whats available to fix cracked vacuum lines.

Since you don't wanna bend that vac line, checking the PCV valve for function can be done by placing a piece of paper over the oil fill hole with the cap removed. With the engine running the paper should be sucked towards the hole. You have the rattle so it sounds like it should be functional.

SirVemup
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I think i may bark on a journey into the intake and change out gaskets, get rid of the stupid butterfly restriction, and change out that PVC hose. Anything else i should do while i am in there? Good lookin out on the info, much appreciated.

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I'd change every vacuum line on the motor.

SirVemup
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WDRacing wrote:I'd change every vacuum line on the motor.
Great idea.
I have a question on draw thru and blow thru. This is a quote from page 2 of this post.
"You're going to wait until you get the N62 MAF and tune installed before going blow-thru right?"
Why?
I ordered a new intercooler pipe kit and was going to go blow thru, but now i am scared. Blow thru just seems like a better set-up but i must be missing something. #turbonoob. On most pics i see the MAF is located at the turbo inlet, and on my set-up (purchased that way) = First air filter then turbo, BOV, MAF, intercooler in that order (makes sense that BOV won't release metered air). Should i change to = filter, MAF, turbo, BOV, intercooler like everyone else? Or what is the best route for me?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/85520473@ ... otostream/

I am all stock besides 8:1 FMU and 255 fuel pump and only shooting for 8 psi boost.
Another quick question, how do i know how much boost is being pushed? I have a 8 psi spring in the waste gate so i am assuming i can only max at 8 psi. Yea or nay?
.
Gonna hit it hard this weekend that is why all the questions. Also can you tell me how to embed photos? I am sure it would help explain things.

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You need a vac/ boost gauge to tell how much boost you're actually making.

There are 2 ways I'd route my MAF. One is the standard placement where it's between the filter and turbo. This is referred to as draw thru.

The other is blow-thru. Where the MAF is placed between the intercooler and the throttle body. The MAF should not be on the hot pipe between the turbo and the intercooler.

SirVemup
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"The MAF should not be on the hot pipe between the turbo and the intercooler."
I hope this didn't kill my MAF.
So i won't have any problems going blow thru with my set up? I got a nice intercooler kit on the way, just still not sure which way to go.

And i do have a boost gauge but never got to use it yet. I bought the car with the clutch slipping at boost, installed a new clutch, and was about 100 miles into the break-in period and the freaking clutch fork pivot ball broke, so i never got to get up to boost. Everything is ready to go now (besides pipe routing), can't wait til i get this beast back on the road.

Oh yea my turbonoob question of the day, with a 8 lb waste gate spring i will never be able to push more than 8?

BTW i changed out that PVC hose and took some pics. Only took me 2 hours total time and went really smooth. Since i have never seen a post on changing the PVC hose do you think i should do a write up and post? I just don't know how to transfer photos from computer to NICO???

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Using the blow thru setup will prevent stalling when the bov vents.

You can increase the amount of boost by using a boost controller. I always recommend one that has 2 stages so you can run low boost for daily driving and still be able to ramp it up with the push of a button.

I use the TurboXS Dual Stage myself.

SirVemup
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A TPS (tested it and the reading were all over the place), iridiums, 8.5mm wires, and some wire separators (so my son could get the cool sticker) are already in my shopping cart for next weekend. I have to go cheap on the boost controller cause it is coming from an 15 year boy's old pocket. The build is for a good 1/8 mile time at Milan Dragway for the summer.

i Frankensteined this set up so we could at least get some mileage on it.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/85520473@ ... otostream/

Can you see the pic?

Do you think this set up will hold up for 20-30 runs at 8psi boost? I would love to return the intercooler kit to pay for everything i am about to order.

I got the car up to some boost today and the BOV was doing this long silent hiss, on the old set up it was a loud blast. Should i adjust it to hard for the loud blast?#turbonoob

And i see what you mean about the stalling if the BOV is not rerouted into the system. It didn't stall but i could notice rmps dropping.

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Definitely adjust it to hard!

I'm very familiar with a budget build man. If you really want it to last, you have to insure it doesn't knock. The best way to do that it with water injection. You can diy a simple system for real cheap. If this is something you're interested in, I have built lots of systems myself and can walk you through it real easy.

SirVemup
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Kick a**. I love learning new things. Thx.

I just read somewhere that if i leave the swirl valve plugged the secondary butterfly valves on my SOHC will stay open. Every heard anything like that before?

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That makes sense.

There has been a ton of discussion about those damn butterfly valves on the E and DE models. Whether they work, should they be removed, will you lose torque, gain torque yada and so on. It's one of the reasons I went with the S14. No damn butterfly valves! The more crap that works off of vacuum you have, the more problems that can occur. Just my .02 on that...

IIRC, you can take a vacuum pump and connect it to something and actuate the system manually to see how it operates.

As for the water/alcohol injection, I'll make a new thread about it and post it in here. I've been meaning to write a new article about it anyway. I wrote a basic one a few years ago, but it reads poorly and the info isn't 100% accurate.

SirVemup
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Looks like i got no vacuum leaks. I did the vacuum test (only 10 lbs) but it held the 10 lbs vacuum.
I totally agree about the less vacuum hoses the better. When i did emissions removal the car ran better. Now i only have 4 vacuum sources.

And yea do a write up on that water injection, i would love to read it.

Do you think my intercooler set up will hold for the summer? (as in the pic).

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If you have a problem with the couplers popping off, just put a little bit of hairspray on the pipe, then slide the coupler over. Other than that, an intercooler is just a heat sync, so it should work fine.

SirVemup
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Houston, we have driftoff. This car is fast. I installed the new iridiums and new wires and boom, no more missing. Now what to do about this blow thru draw thru set up. I still have the new intercooler piping kit sitting in my living room and not sure if i should go blow thru or return it and reroute my BOV into the system (bad stalling after boost). You got me this far buddy, whats your .02?

SirVemup
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I got it. Did some more research and found out that in a turbo blow through system the MAF measures the temperature of the air and sends incorrect signals back to the ECU. So unless i get my ECU tuned for a blow through i am at a bigger risk of damaging my motor. Since i am sticking with my FMU, i am sticking with draw thru and will reroute my BOV back into system. Thanks for all your help WDRacer.


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