Where do I start with tuning?

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mythic540
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My setup is a draw through maf right? Would it be worth it to go through the trouble of converting to a blow through setup?


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Definitely worth it.

mythic540
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Ok that sounds like a plan then, if I put breather filter on the VC what would I put on the other end where the maf is at?

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Nothing. It gets plugged.

You're going to wait until you get the N62 MAF and tune installed before going blow-thru right?

mythic540
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Yes of course, but for now I should send the bov output to the intake pipe right? For the meantime at least? Could I make a connection from the output right into that pipe connected to the throttle body or is that the wrong spot to put it in?

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Has to go all the way over to the pipe between the MAF and turbo inlet.

This may only be needed if you're having issues with stalling etc.

mythic540
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Well my car never stalls, just runs rough at cruise speeds sometimes

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Might as well leave it as is until a problem develops.

mythic540
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I did the breather filter that you suggested, you know it's the damnedest thing, I had forgotten that my bov had an adjustable screw to make it hard or soft, so last night after researching how to set it, I set it a bit more harder and drove it around and what do you know? My rpms stopped surging after coming off a high rev. Don't know if that's exactly why that was happening but drove it from another town this morning and it's still holding fine. Hopefully that solved that, ill have to see what happens when my FMU comes in

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That's good news!

mythic540
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After you explained that the bov was letting out unmetered air and causing it to run rich I realized that the adjustment screw probably wasn't set right, lo and behold that was it, still gotta fine tune it but its a start

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Glad I can be of some help man. It's been like crickets in here for awhile...

It's good to have a fresh build going on.

mythic540
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What's the best way to go about rebuilding an engine in your opinion? Mine had been rebuilt and has 25k on it but I figured eventually I can get better internals for more power, what's a great company to go with

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Well, with a proper tune the KA can handle 350whp all day everyday. That's a lot of power for the S Chassis. As far as rods and pistons go, there are quite a few choices, I'd say the best bang buck options would be Ross pistons and Eagle rods.

What clutch are you using?

mythic540
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As far as I know it's the stock clutch, seems like it's still going strong but I still need to get a stronger one

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Yeah, my S14 didn't like more than 8 psi before it started slipping. SPEC for the win!

mythic540
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Is act the only good company around that makes really high performance clutches? If I replace mine I am gonna replace it with something incredibly strong since I will be doing it myself, I would like to only have to do it once and not worry about it for years and years

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SPEC....hence me mentioning SPEC...lol.

I have THIS one in the 6 puck style. Will hold any amount of torque you're going to make and it still drives very easy. Good enough for a daily driver. The Stage 3+ would also work well, but I have no personal experience with it.

mythic540
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So I got my FMU in and installed it, then I retarded the timing by loosening the two bolts on the dizzy and turning counterclockwise a couple millimeters. Should I be worried about something happening to my engine? I test drove it and it was holding boost fine, still idling smooth after a hard revv as well. I still feel a bit of hesitation while accelerating normally up to 3k rpms but when I punch it all is good. I wonder what could still be wrong?

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Your tps isn't set correctly. That definitely needs to be fixed.

mythic540
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please elaborate.....please?

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Your throttle position sensor isn't set correctly. You'll have to look in the fsm for directions to set it. I can tell it's set wrong from one of the images you posted. I can elaborate more tomorrow.

mythic540
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Ok thanks!!

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Ok, I'm a little more sober than I was last night, I'm usually not much help on any given Sunday during football season :chuckle:

TPS = throttle position sensor. It's only function is to tell the ecu the position of the throttle butterfly. This is a pretty important sensor because it tells the ecu some very critical things and it is active from idle to WOT. The ecu takes this reading and uses it to determine load mapping.

There isn't a lot of information available on the KA24E, but the sensors themselves are the same as the KA24DE. The good thing is, the E model is WAY easier to get to check and adjust. There are two screws that secure the TPS to the throttle body. When these are loosened, you can swivel the tps in the slots. This allows for a voltage adjustment. In one of your images it looks like the adjustment is F'd. So at a minimum it requires checking.

Checking is going to require a multimeter. If you don't have one, buy one. I have a really nice one and it has paid for itself in spades. At the very least, pick up a cheap one at harbor freight. They will work just as well for the most part, they just lack a couple of the features that others may have.

Like most things, setting the TPS should be done with the motor at operating temperature. Letting it idle for 5-8 minutes should be fine. Then shut the car off as the test is done with the key in ACC mode.

You'll need 2 paper clips to insert into the back of the TPS plug so you can measure the voltage output. You're looking for .45 to .55 volts. To adjust the TPS, loosen the two 7mm screw/bolts a little, just enough to allow you to move the tps. Leave a little tension on the screws, so once you achieve the voltage you're looking for, the reading won't jump all over as soon as you let go of the tps. It's wicked sensitive and will take a bit of playing with the achieve the correct voltage.

Fortunately for you, there is the cool thing called youtube. On this mysterious site they have video's of just about everything these days. When I was learning how to break stuff...I mean fix stuff stuff, all I had was the FSM and some very poor images. I wish youtube was around back in the day! I was able to track down a couple of video's for ya to make this process even easier.

There are two video's. We're assuming you're tps is good and your wiring is good. These vids go through the entire trouble shooting process, so you don't really need to pay attention until the end of vid 1 and all of vid 2. Watch them all the way through though, it's good info.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-Mwxicmpg4[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKK7QdochkI[/youtube]

If you have any questions, fire away.

mythic540
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Awesome I'm gonna start working on this after work

mythic540
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Hey WD, I got these gauges off craigslist for 40 bucks, but there's absolutely NO info about them on the web. Were they just crappy gauges and got discontinued? Have you ever seen these before or have any experience with them?
Image

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What brand are they? They look like generic ebay/chinese garbage. TYPE R...lol. R means fast!

mythic540
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I got em from an asian guy........they only say R1 Competition meter....soooo the R means REALLY fast right? lol no but seriously, do gauges like these have a straightforward way of being installed? Or are they specific to their own instructions?

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That looks like one of systems that has all the inputs go into the control box and the control box sends the output to the gauges. I have never used this type of system. I always use independent gauges.

I'm not going to be much help with this one.

mythic540
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So I'm gonna order my ecu from emance tomorrow, he's a really cool helpful guy, ill keep you guys updated on how it goes once I get it. In the meantime I'm looking at wideband o2 kits, seems like the innovate lc1 is a crowd pleaser, from my understanding you HAVE to make another bung for it on the downpipe correct? Can't just drop it in to the existing slot I assume?


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