New guy. 1984 720

[2 timer]

Hi guys I recently picked up a 1984 720 z24 with stock carbs on it and a bunch of vacuum lines that are gone.
I picked the truck up and brought it home replaced the thermostat, intake manifold, spark plugs, exhaust plugs, when I got the truck it didnt over heat now that I replaced the thermostat its been gettin hot and everytime I go to shut the truck off it just keeps wanting to stay on like it keeps getting gas in the carb or something can someone give me some tips?

[breadbox]

Yeah, If the motor gets hot enough it will diesel the rest out.

Check timing and make sure its right. After I fixed that and tuning the carb, it ran smooth.

[breadbox]

Also Welcome to NICOclub.

Glad you found us.

[2 timer]

I didnt mess with the timing and where should I check it at?

[2 timer]

One more question. If I get a weber carb will that eliminate the vacuum lines?

[fastboatman29212]

You can eliminate the vacuum lines without switching to a Weber. I've not done it yet, but everyone says to just keep the vacuum line to the distributor and delete all others. Make sure the plugs/caps are nice and snug with no leaks.

Weber carbs get a from everyone who has one, so unless you are in a state that has strict emission laws, you will probably be happy with a Weber.

You said the engine runs hot now. You don't have the thermostat in backwards do you? Please don't take that as an insult.

[2 timer]

You got a pic of the way its supposed to go? Im sure I got it in correctly.

[PEZi]

Don't have a pic of the orientation, but hopefully someone will get that up for you. As far as the stumble after you turn the truck off, that sounds like the anti-dieseling solenoid. It keeps the fuel from flowing after you cut power, and when it dies it will cause this type of situation.

Welcome!

[2 timer]

Can anyone point me to where that would be located?

[PEZi]

It can be found here. This, and many more DIY threads can be found as a sticky thread at the top of the 720 forum!

[2 timer]

I have that on my carburetor but the one on my truck does not match it. The one on my truck is alot smaller than the one on the carb!

[fastboatman29212]

Anti-dieseling solenoids all screw in at the back of the passenegr side of the carb. Calif models usually have 2 wires, others may only have 1 wire. Much easier to loosen it if the carb is still bolted to the manifold, but you may need to partially disassemble the accelerator pump lever arm to get it outa the way in order to get a wrench on it.

[2 timer]

If a had a weber conversion does it come with how to re-wire it?

[2 timer]

Ok I found on the connecter that the anti diesel solenoid has two wires a red and black wire and on my truck harness it has a blue and blue with a white strip wire on it do theose connect if so I know how but I just need to know if the go to the blue wires.

[2 timer]

Anything?

[fastboatman29212]

Does this thread help answer your question?

connector-question-t539230.html

[2 timer]

Thanks fastboatman but no it doesn't, although I got it figured out.
I mean...maybe it helped a little!

[2 timer]

Ok I think I have everything figured out. Everything runs good now, no over heating, no dieseling, vacuum lines seem to be plugged ok, only thing now is that when the truck is idling for about 2 minutes it starts to spit and sputter.
I still need to get a fuel regulator and filter plus a weber carb but has anyone got a solution?

Thanks

[2 timer]

Could it be a fuel pump relay?

[flinterman2000]

Ok I think I have everything figured out. Everything runs good now, no over heating, no dieseling, vacuum lines seem to be plugged ok, only thing now is that when the truck is idling for about 2 minutes it starts to spit and sputter.
I still need to get a fuel regulator and filter plus a weber carb but has anyone got a solution?

Thanks

when it spits and sputters, does it die. That would indicate flooding of the carb.

[2 timer]

Haven't let it idle long enough to know but ill check tomorrow!

[2 timer]

It does not die, it just sits there and bogs down after two minutes and hesitate to rev when I give it gas.
Still havent got my weber carb in yet but what am I lacking here?

[woodbutcher5691]

Still havent got my weber carb in yet but what am I lacking here?

A weber?
Seriously though, Have you checked the timing yet, as breadbox suggested earlier?

[2 timer]

I asked how to check it and no one gave me a reply!

[fastboatman29212]

You will need a timing light. Autozone has a loaner program. I can't give exact directions on how to use one, but someone else can step up and give those instructions. The photo below shows the timing marks. The marks can be seen on the main crank pulley if you look down between the fan and the alternator.

[2 timer]

I have located the marker you have pointed out but I dont understand what exactly im looking for.

[fastboatman29212]

Timing adjustments affect the moment the plugs spark in relationship to the position of the pistons.

A timing light is a type of strobe light. When it is connected to the #1 spark plug of a running motor, it will flash once every time the #1 plug fires.

The Z24 motor has 8 plugs which fire in a repeating sequence. The crank pulley has a mark on it. The crank pulley rotates exactly 1 revolution with each cycle. The mark on the crank pulley will be in the same position each time the #1 plug fires.

Since the timing light flashes at the exact same time that the #1 plug fires, it will always "see" the crank pulley mark in the same position each time it flashes. The saw tooth shaped timing marker is a stable reference point that the mechanic uses to see what the engine's timing is set at.

By making adjustments to the distributor, the mechanic can slightly delay or advance the exact time the #1 spark plug fires. While making this adjustment, the mechanic can use the timing light to actually see the mark on the crank pulley move left or right in reference to the timing marker.

For a motor to run properly, the timing must be set correctly. Basically, if the piston is not in a favorable position when the plug fires, then the explosion of compressed gas in the cylinder is not efficiently converted into mechanical energy and power is lost and the motor will run poorly.

[2 timer]

Dude you said it all!
I dont know s*** about timing and I feel like im ready to take on the world because of your statement.
But ill leave it to the professionals!

Thanks

[2 timer]

Carburetor should be here today, after the install I will get some pictures of the truck!

[synack7350]

you know I can't say it enough replace your ignition components it makes a world of difference if they are shoddy it'll make you think you're running rich. 90% of carb problems are ignition related. plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coils. I think pezi can get you a discount on nkg stuff! its good stuff.