new '87

A home for 1983–1989 300ZX owners!
chickenhunterbob
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:48 pm

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New to me, bought for the youngest daughter, it's a fixxer upper, body relatively good, has a tiny rust hole in driver side fender, will replace that, otherwise sheet metal and floor good, need new hinges RH door, I have them, painted them tonight, put them in tomorrow...

1987 2 seater Z31 N/A 5 speed

Runs a tad rough, but I have some time...lots of corroded connections, all those and grounds to get a thorough once over...

Most anything rubber under the hood needs replaced, coolant hoses, vacuum lines, etc. all about 23 years old.

Have codes 13, 21, 41.

Plan is to replace timing belt and associated adjuncts, tune up (plugs, wires, dist and rotor, set timing etc.) seems a good time to check the CHTS sensor and circuit (since i have a code 13) , and check codes again after all that.

Can't register to the registry, I'm in Canada eh.

Nice place here though...lots of info, very useful site.


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Perrenial Badass
Posts: 405
Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2008 3:32 pm
Car: 1973 240Z, 1986 300ZX, 1987 300ZX, 1984 Corvette
Location: Florida
Contact:

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Pictures?

88Z+2010Rogue
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 8:56 pm
Car: 1988 300Z Turbo,
2010 Rogue
Location: Perkasie, PA

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For z31 specific forums you can join z31.com/forum or z31performance.com/forum

I have an 88 turbo myself :biggrin:

chickenhunterbob
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:48 pm

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Perrenial Badass wrote:Pictures?
Pictures soon, once I get it on the road. It's on jack stands now since I posted earlier.

So far I've rebuilt all the brake calipers with repair kits from Partsbin, replaced one e-brake cable (Z31partsfroryou.com), headlight switch (also Z31partsfroryou.com)and taken apart the front of the engine to do the timing belt, replaced the camshaft and crank seals, water pump and thermostat.

Finally have all the parts do the timing belt e.g.: belt/tensioner/bolt, waterpump, thermostat and a couple of hoses from NAPA, CHTS and FPR from Steve at Z31partsfroryou.com, sub harness from AZ-Zbum's link (in WA).

Also a friend let me strip his '86 of some things, of note are a pristine rear hatch padding under the carpet, set of (also pristine) weatherstripping (T-tops/door) to replace the failing ones on the car, drivers seat and everything I wanted off the engine (AFM, P/S pump, FPR, O/S A/C compressor, lots of electrical connectors, O2 sensor, fuel pump etc. and etc...

I also have some rust through to attend to, not much but the rear wheel wells are rusted through at the front where the frame rails end, I don't have a welder but thought I might try the 3M panel adhesive and rivets, or should I take it to a body man to have it welded in?

Also what do you guys do with coolant hoses? Use the OE wire clamps or replace with hose clamps?

How about valve cover gaskets? Use OE or Permatex (or like) black RTV?

thanks
Bob

chickenhunterbob
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:48 pm

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Things is coming along... but have a dry A/C idler.

Manual says to "grease bearing up" with regards to A/C idler pulley on my early '87 "A" engine, mine is running dry.

Anybody know how this is to be done or is the bearing replaceable? The "86 had a replaceable bearing held in with a snap ring, this one...no snap ring, might be I have to replace the pulley et al?

thanks
Bob

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evildky
Posts: 14225
Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2004 9:23 pm
Car: 71 Datsun 240ZT
87 Nissan 300ZX N/A-T
06 Nissan 350Z GT
Toyota Tundra TRD RW
Location: Louisville, KY
Contact:

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I'm pretty sure it's a sealed bearing, you can take the pulley to a decent machine or bearing shop they can press the old one out and press a new one in, or you can buy a new idler that has the pulley and bearing


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