"New" 2002 Frontier 176K what should I do for PM's?
"New" 2002 Frontier 176K what should I do for PM's?
Just bought a 2002 Frontier with 176K. 4 door, 3.3. I drove a 2002 Ranger for 7 years unti lit got totalled last week and thought i would give a japanese truck a try for the first time. I have about $1000 to spend on pm's. i'm doing a timing belt and water pump right off the bat. I am getting a "tick or click" as I am coming to a stop and another one when i speed back up, any ideas what this might be? Also changing trans fluid/filter, is a flush a good idea or just potential for trouble? Anything i should focus on right away on a truck with this many miles while I still have a few bucks to spend on it?? Thanks
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Meleemaker
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2013 7:52 pm
- Car: 2000 Toyota Celica
1993 Nissan D21 4WD
Re: "New" 2002 Frontier 176K what should I do for PM's?
Hot flush isnt a bad idea. Also flush and replace the coolant, easy fix and saves you clogged water jackets and heater cores with holes.
Check spark plugs and gaps. Do NOT gap platnium or iridium plugs. Probably would replace those if they looked remotely bad. Check spark plug wires for correct resistance. About 8-10k ohms a foot approximately.
Bleeding brakes is an nice easy cheap PM. Brake fluid is very hygroscopic, which means it sucks in water which lowers boiling point and means your brakes fail sooner under load. Just crack the bleeders, starting back passenger(right rear) then left rear, then front left, and front right, one at a time, have someone push the brake in and then close the bleeder and release the brake pedal. Repeat until the fluid coming out looks clean. Make sure you are topping off the resevoir otherwise if it sucks in air, you have to start all over again. The first one takes the longest and the rest should be easy. Once you finish, make sure the brake pedal feels normal and carefully test drive it to make sure the brake system works properly.
Checking front pads/rotors along with drum and shoes are good maintainence things. Without them, you wouldnt need to worry about preventitive maintaince
Change oil and Filter. 25 dollars at a quick lube or DIY
Change FUEL FILTER. This 20 dollar device will save you a fuel filter down the road. Reccomend changing them every 15=20k miles. Normally people NEVER touch them. 20 dollars
Check belt tension to make sure they are good otherwise replace them. Last place you wanna be is stuck on the side of the highway with a broken v-belt and a dead battery...which is usually where it happens. Another easy 20-30 dollars
Grease the steering linkages and ball joints. Make sure those things are looking nice. People often neglect them. Once a year twice a year is plenty. 7 dollars on some high quality grease and you are good for a few years. Just squirt in enough that you see the seal swell slightly. Usually one or two pumps is enough.
Check for bearings or tie rods. These things are reccommende to be changed around 80-100k. If they feel good, dont replace them. Just grease and go.
Check shock absorbers. These things can cause major cuping on the tires and bad ride quality. Replacing 4 of these will run you around 150-200 dollars. Auto parts stores sometimes have buy 3, get one free. Also check steering dampner.
And change front and rear diff fluid. Again easy 20, 30 dollar gig that will help keep your drive train feeling good.
(Bleeder is located on the back of the wheel cylinder at the top of the drum in the back and on top of the piston in front. Probably 8mm. Nissan majorly effed up. My wheel cylinders were steel inside cast iron and sheared off immediately. If there is any resistance, light a candle and drip wax onto the bleeder, that has ALWAYs worked for me. They are also only about 15 ft-lb so be gentle on them. Wax should help loosen them. Otherwise replace. They are only about 12-15 dollars a piece. )
Check spark plugs and gaps. Do NOT gap platnium or iridium plugs. Probably would replace those if they looked remotely bad. Check spark plug wires for correct resistance. About 8-10k ohms a foot approximately.
Bleeding brakes is an nice easy cheap PM. Brake fluid is very hygroscopic, which means it sucks in water which lowers boiling point and means your brakes fail sooner under load. Just crack the bleeders, starting back passenger(right rear) then left rear, then front left, and front right, one at a time, have someone push the brake in and then close the bleeder and release the brake pedal. Repeat until the fluid coming out looks clean. Make sure you are topping off the resevoir otherwise if it sucks in air, you have to start all over again. The first one takes the longest and the rest should be easy. Once you finish, make sure the brake pedal feels normal and carefully test drive it to make sure the brake system works properly.
Checking front pads/rotors along with drum and shoes are good maintainence things. Without them, you wouldnt need to worry about preventitive maintaince
Change oil and Filter. 25 dollars at a quick lube or DIY
Change FUEL FILTER. This 20 dollar device will save you a fuel filter down the road. Reccomend changing them every 15=20k miles. Normally people NEVER touch them. 20 dollars
Check belt tension to make sure they are good otherwise replace them. Last place you wanna be is stuck on the side of the highway with a broken v-belt and a dead battery...which is usually where it happens. Another easy 20-30 dollars
Grease the steering linkages and ball joints. Make sure those things are looking nice. People often neglect them. Once a year twice a year is plenty. 7 dollars on some high quality grease and you are good for a few years. Just squirt in enough that you see the seal swell slightly. Usually one or two pumps is enough.
Check for bearings or tie rods. These things are reccommende to be changed around 80-100k. If they feel good, dont replace them. Just grease and go.
Check shock absorbers. These things can cause major cuping on the tires and bad ride quality. Replacing 4 of these will run you around 150-200 dollars. Auto parts stores sometimes have buy 3, get one free. Also check steering dampner.
And change front and rear diff fluid. Again easy 20, 30 dollar gig that will help keep your drive train feeling good.
(Bleeder is located on the back of the wheel cylinder at the top of the drum in the back and on top of the piston in front. Probably 8mm. Nissan majorly effed up. My wheel cylinders were steel inside cast iron and sheared off immediately. If there is any resistance, light a candle and drip wax onto the bleeder, that has ALWAYs worked for me. They are also only about 15 ft-lb so be gentle on them. Wax should help loosen them. Otherwise replace. They are only about 12-15 dollars a piece. )