Just and update... I promised I'd update this thread with additional installation instructions... sorry it took so long.
I'll spare everyone by not posting pictures of the final install, (only because there are already tons of them scattered throughout this forum). Instead I'll just go over my installation experience.
Believe it or not... the delay / hesitation in installing the spoiler was not because I was questioning my ability to install it... but rather if I liked the way they looked. I really like the lines of the Rogue without the spoiler and have seen plenty of Rogues both with and without. With the spoiler it looks an awful lot like the Murano or Lexus SUV. (i.e., like too many other cars on the road) Even though I seemed to favor the look without the spoiler I decided to go ahead and install it (especially since I had already spent the money.)
My installation came out “perfect” in every aspect. INMO a dealer installed spoiler could not be any more perfect. I’m extremely pleased with the final installation but still on the fence thinking I also like the look of the Rogue without the spoiler. (although there is no going back now) Actually my wife was the one that helped me make the decision to install it. It's her car and she prefers the look of the Rogue with the spoiler.
Anyway… as already mentioned by other members in this and other threads, there are multiple suppliers of OEM aftermarket spoilers. They are available in both plastic or fiberglass models and can be purchased via eBay or directly from a Nissan Dealership if you must install a genuine Nissan part.
Points of interest:Genuine Nissan spoilers are one piece and made of ABS injected plastic (i.e., blow molded). Although one could argue fiberglass is structurally stronger, most of us will not be subjecting our Rogues to the triple digit speed that would be needed to induce structural failure in the ABS. Also, unlike fiberglass, plastic spoilers are less prone to cracking and chipping. Before you discount putting ABS plastic accessories on you car (be it a grille appliqué or spoiler) consider that ABS plastic is used in a myriad of products including, but not limited to, plumbing/piping, gun stocks, computer cases and motorcycle helmets. It is considered a superior material due to its hardness, impact resistance, gloss, and toughness. It also has a useful temperature range from -40 to 100 °C. (-104 to 212 °F) In our application (readers of this forum) the Rogue spoiler is for form rather than function and therefore plastic is the better choice because they are lighter that fiberglass.
Side note: As you may have read in other threads the rear hatch lift struts (lift stays) get weak over time and have a problem holding the rear hatch up.
Even though the genuine Nissan spoiler is hollow plastic... with the paint and hardware it weighs in at a whopping 5 pounds! (I used a digital postal scale to weigh mine just prior to installation) My Rogue is only 6 months old. After installing the rear spoiler I can tell you the rear hatch "does not" go up at quickly or as snappy as it used to. It still goes up unassisted and opens up fully… but at a much slower pace that it did before installing the spoiler.
InstallationPlease Note: The following steps and pics reference the installation of a genuine Nissan spoiler and may differ when installing an aftermarket version. Genuine Nissan spoilers usually run $240 and up depending on who you buy them, from while aftermarket spoilers advertised as “the same as those sold by Nissan” (i.e. elitespoilers dot com) start at $129. Last, you always have the eBay option with unpainted spoilers as low as $89. If your are buying from any vendor who requests the paint code… be sure to look at your id plate found on the inside edge of the drivers side door. DO NOT give them the name of the color (like phantom white) You may hate yourself for it. ALWAYS give them actual paint code number from your ID plate.
The spoiler comes with a step-by-step instruction sheet with pictures, andthe paper drilling template so you can accurately mark the 4 drill hole locations. I may be more cautious than most (i.e., measure two and three times, cut/drill once etc) Anyway... as a result it took me 2 hours to complete the installation.
The spoiler is held in place by 4 threaded studs. Two that are affixed to the spoiler and two that are screwed in (from inside the cabin area) once the spoiler is partially attached to the roof. Apply the spoiler installation Drilling Template to the rear hatch area
Alignment of Template
4 holes will be drilled, (from the outside) into the top of the rear hatch. Before drilling you must remove the interior vinyl trim panel. The installation instructions identify using a Nissan trim removal tool to remove the interior trim but it is unnecessary as the trim easily pops out. Simply insert your fingers between the glass and trim near the center of the trim piece and pull. The latches are simple cabinet style spring clips and the panel just pops out.
Trim - Spring Clips
You also need to pull out the wiring grommets and tape them out of the way so when you drill the holes from above you don't drill into the grommet, the wiring or the rear wiper fluid line (if applicable).
After the template has been positioned, use a center punch (or some other pointed object) to mark the center line of each of the four drill hole locations. Once you have marked your roof with the four locations, the template can be removed. Using the drill bit size indicated in your instructions the holes can be easily drilled with your basic electric drill.
After the spoiler is installed the installation instructions advise you to use an air gun (pressurized air) to blast out any metal shavings from the cracks, crevices and the window gaskets. Even though I have an air compressor I elected to use painters tape (as you can see in the above photo) to cover the window cracks and catch the filings as they fell, thus keeping the filings out of the gasket and from sliding down the hatch into other cracks, in the first place. I then used a magnet to lift the filings off the tape and roof rather than brush them off and risk scratching the clear coat.
NOTE: BEFORE moving the 3M adhesive tape backing and bolting down the spoiler, I strongly recommend a dry fit. (i.e., install the spoiler by bolting it into place "without" removing the backing from the 3M tape. Once installed check the placement, clearances etc. Then... if you are satisfied with the finished look, remove the spoiler, remove the 3M tape backing and reinstall the spoiler. Yes its a pain and can add another 15 or 20 minutes to your install time but its well worth the effort. As mentioned in the installation instructions, you can elongate the holes with a round file (if needed) to achieve the proper position, just remember to repaint any bare metal surfaces. I had to do this even though my center punch and holes were dead on!
Installing the nuts on to the two center studs is relatively quick and easy. However, installing the two bolts through the grommet hole openings, and through the holes you drilled and into the bolt holes on the right and left sides of the spoiler is a little trickier. After installing the nuts on the two center studs I used a flashlight to look into the grommet hole openings to see if the holes I drilled were lined up with the factory bolt holes in the spoiler. One was not. I found I had to elongate the left edge of one hole slightly so the bolt would have a clear shot going into the bolt hole in the spoiler. NOTE: Be aware the right and left bolts, the ones installed thru the grommet hole openings, screw into the ends of the spoiler where the edges turn to down. As a result the bolts actually screw in at a slight angle rather that straight on like the two bolts in the center of the spoiler.
Once mounted, if your template was properly positioned, the contour of the spoiler should align perfectly with the contour of the rear hatch...
and... providing the template was properly positioned, the distance / measurement (i.e., gap) between at the left edge of the spoiler and the hatch, should be the same as the gap measurement on the right side of the spoiler and the hatch.
Final Note: Keep in mind that I bought mine from a Nissan Dealership and the above steps are what my specific spoiler required.....I can't guarantee that the steps of other aftermarket spoilers will be the same as mine... but... they should work as a general guidelines.
Hope this helps....
Modified by Elton Noway at 9:13 AM 1/3/2010