rolade01 wrote:Congratulations! I hope you have a wonderful wedding. I notice that your PM button is not active now, so I will look between November 15 and 24. Thanks for the response.
You can always use the touch up paint instead of rust preventative. The water will always get in the attach part no matter how tight your sealant is due to wind vibration when traveling at high speed as well as bumpy roads. The key part to it is as long as there's weatherstripping around the bolt holes then you don't really have to worry about the water gets into your trunk lid. The OEM spoiler leave gaps between each of the bolts to ensure water that gets in also gets out.hammester wrote:Hey guys I just received my OEM Nissan spoiler and was planing on installing it soon. Is it necessary to use some sort of sealer? I know you need to use rust preventative (any recommendations?) but is there a need to use some sort of sealant to keep the water out?
I would definitely not try add additional weatherstripping or caulking beside the one shown on the OEM spoiler. You want any trapped moisture to escape. Nissan had some real problems back in the 80's/90's with spoilers on their vehicles. More than a few rotted out the rear deck/trunk. Example: The '89-93 240SX.insomnia816 wrote:The OEM spoiler leave gaps between each of the bolts to ensure water that gets in also gets out.
Yes.hammester wrote:So basically don't add any weatherstripping to the OEM spoiler because it already comes with some?
The 3M tape used has a pressure sensitive adhesive. 3M recommends warm temperatures for application as it will make the spoiler and 3M tape more 'flexible' ensuring the tape fully contacts and adheres to the vehicle:Also the directions say you must apply when the temperature is over 60 degrees. Has anyone installed it when its been less than that? Is it because of the 3M tape?
Installing in very cold weather will make it more difficult to get a complete bond. IMHO, see if you can borrow a friends warm garage, etc or wait for a sunny day. Even if it's cool out, the sun will warm the metal and spoiler up enough to help.Acrylic foam tape is not a "heat-cure system," but rather a "pressure-sensitive" system. Therefore, heat is not required to ensure the tape performs as intended. As stated earlier, adequate pressure is required (15 psi). However, heating can be beneficial in terms of making the trim component more flexible, which improves wet-out. Heat will also aid in the viscoelastic flow or microscopic wet-out of the adhesive to build adhesion more quickly. It is recommended that part temperature be 60-110° F at time of application.
+1 - A+Rogue One wrote:Please don't post the same question under multiple threads! If you had read this entire thread you would have found the answer you were looking for.
if you dont have that drill template, man is it a "female dog". i dabbed some paint on the bolts, and alighted it over the car's sheet metal. that left a paint mark on the spot to drill out. try that. and for the two interior holes to drill, just approximate it from the cutout for the 3rd brake lightbaldilox wrote:Has anyone that has installed an OEM spoiler on their Rogue had issues with aligning the outside bolts??? Any tips on doing so? Thank you.
lol my right side imbedded bolt also removed itself!casperfun wrote:Hate to burst your bubble, but even with the template it might not even be right. I had to take off the spoiler a couple of times and refile the holes to make it work until taking it off one to many made one of the middle built in-screws started to move where I could not remove the spoiler anymore. So the left side has a little space or opening where it didn't lie exactly flat.
Yeah that sucks, no biggie the same thing occurred on my 1990 Nissan pearl maxima when I had a spoiler installed by the DEALER!
If you can get it perfect, consider yourself lucky. And I thought doing it myself, I could do it better. It looks ugly under my spoiler, the horror.( the unseen damage I created). Argghh.
I concur, I used the template and it was off by a good 1/2 inch!casperfun wrote:Hate to burst your bubble, but even with the template it might not even be right. I had to take off the spoiler a couple of times and refile the holes to make it work until taking it off one to many made one of the middle built in-screws started to move where I could not remove the spoiler anymore. So the left side has a little space or opening where it didn't lie exactly flat.
Yeah that sucks, no biggie the same thing occurred on my 1990 Nissan pearl maxima when I had a spoiler installed by the DEALER!
If you can get it perfect, consider yourself lucky. And I thought doing it myself, I could do it better. It looks ugly under my spoiler, the horror.( the unseen damage I created). Argghh.
LOL! Just like mine, but I paid a custom shop to do mine. No biggie, it's hard to notice...casperfun wrote:So the left side has a little space or opening where it didn't lie exactly flat.