NEED EXPERT HELP - Eng Swap

[MarkerZ32]

Let me start by saying I have +7 years of professional automotive experience and I know and understand industry terms. Now for my situation...

I recently got my 1992 300ZX. N/A, M/T with a blown VG30DE and a molested wiring harness. I bought a good running (confirmed) VG30DE from a 1993 J30 with 114K on the ODO (confirmed). I did the swap in a weekend with the all sensors accounted for, EGR and cooling lines (wanted as stock as possible) and lo and behold it doesn't want to run right. sometimes it revs out to 2k, sometimes it idles really low and boggs out, sometimes runs rich, sometimes lean, and sometimes just smooth and fine at lambda on all 6. I don't want any troubleshooting advice from anyone. I am going to test all sensors and pull the plenum again along with the wiring harness. Either I will get another harness or I will de-loom the one I currently have and wire the engine myself pin by pin. Regardless, I am going to remove the EGR and throttle body cooler lines (as I should have the first time). The vehicle was already missing the A/C, EGR components (has intake block-off ), many vacuum lines, etc.

The vehicle is exempt from emissions so I need the engine to run on the absolute essentials (I can have it dyno tuned for this if need be). So heres what I need to know: Links to useful threads are also greatly appreciated.

I know I need to connect and will be testing:
Throttle Position
Crank Angle
Knock/Detonation sensor
left and right bank heated O2s
Mass Air Flow
And what appears to be two Cam Position Sensors on the back of the heads.
Ignition Control Module
Am I forgeting anything?
I expect I will need the Idle Air Control Valve but what about it's other components? (AAC and thermo valve)

What will still require engine vacuum? (full manifold/throttle feed) aside from the brake booster of course

Can I also remove the AIVs?

What else will need to be modified/removed in order for the engine to run well enough to be driven?

A buddy of mine gave me this car because the subframe broke on my 240SX and I have no other vehicle. I am working out of a very capable shop with a welder and a Snap-On Verus Pro that does communicate with the car... someone please help me out...

[Rubyz32]

http://z32.wikispaces.com

Very very helpful

[MarkerZ32]

http://z32.wikispaces.com

Very very helpful

Thanks, lots of info there. On my way to the shop now to get knuckles-deep...

[MarkerZ32]

So I checked all of my connections and checked all of my vacuum sources with a smoke machine and started testing my sensors, starting with the MAF which was sending about 7.8 volts KOEO and about 5 - 7.8 volts KOER back to the ECU. Waaaaaaaay outside of specification. I unplugged the connector and used a power probe to check for a possible ground out in the harness; found none. So I got a warrantied part on the way with my fingers crossed.

BTW, I have two TPSs (one OE and one aftermarket) and both units measure ~ 0.13v @ switched closed and max out at ~4.0v @ WOT. I cannot graph test with my scanner. Is this even acceptable range?

[NolimitZ32]

AFAIR the range on the TPS is 0-4V