My S13 SR20DET Prep

[positron1]

Hey thanks for the info and yeah I'll take any pics you have on the P/S setup. Also, does anyone know what this is and where it goes?

[Didderson]

looks like that thing is the tube at the end of the transmission. It goes inside the orange tube to help the top of the transmission vent. bolts up near the starter bolts.

[1unar3clipse]

awesome build thread!

sorry to thread jack, hopefully I wont get flamed.I got a retarded question I've searched for a couple of times but lost track of where it was on nico (along with the post-it i wrote it on)

What size bolts did you use to get the engine on the stand? I'm building an SR from scrap parts and I didnt have the flywheel bolts to compare and contrast.I'll get you a cookie if you help me out...

[J240sx]

I thought I was the only black guy on nico..Theres not enough room for the both of us. Just messin with you, keep the updates coming.

[codyace]

I've heard of people who ran those plastic ones for awhile on their SR's and have had no problems. I guess it depends where you live. If its really hot in your area, it might not hold up too good.

I would love to say it's from me being a bozo and overtightening the hose clamps, but these puppies literally melted.

For another 2 dollars in brass fittings, it just makes sense to do to me...and for anyone that tracks their car, that area is always hot, from both engine, transmission, and turbo.

[duffman1278]

I would love to say it's from me being a bozo and overtightening the hose clamps, but these puppies literally melted.

For another 2 dollars in brass fittings, it just makes sense to do to me...and for anyone that tracks their car, that area is always hot, from both engine, transmission, and turbo.

So were you able to replace the plastic ones with the engine in?? Cause if not, I'm screwed haha

[positron1]

awesome build thread!

sorry to thread jack, hopefully I wont get flamed.I got a retarded question I've searched for a couple of times but lost track of where it was on nico (along with the post-it i wrote it on)

What size bolts did you use to get the engine on the stand? I'm building an SR from scrap parts and I didnt have the flywheel bolts to compare and contrast.I'll get you a cookie if you help me out...

I used the largest of the transmission bolts, 3 of them that are 78mm I believe? I went to Lowes and got 3 more bolts, for a total of six on the engine stand, that had the exact numbers on the bag but I threw it away and I can't remember the exact numbers sorry!

[positron1]

I thought I was the only black guy on nico..Theres not enough room for the both of us. Just messin with you, keep the updates coming.

LOL! Also, once again, thanks Didderson! I never would have remembered where I pulled that thing.

[homeslicej2]

I thought I was the only black guy on nico..Theres not enough room for the both of us. Just messin with you, keep the updates coming.

LOL Check out Redtop91, he's black too and plans on building a up his SR this summer once the semester is done for him.

[s13_maJiK]

quick question did you use the sr parts guide for all your seals, or how did you figure out where to get them

[redtop91]

LOL Check out Redtop91, he's black too and plans on building a up his SR this summer once the semester is done for him.

ROFL. Thanks for blowing my cover.

[positron1]

quick question did you use the sr parts guide for all your seals, or how did you figure out where to get them

Yes. I bought some from Courtesy Nissan.

[positron1]

Does anyone know what this thing is and where it goes?

Thanks for the tips, went to the KA and here is where the "thingy" goes. On the transmission like everyone said.

[positron1]

I got a OEM sidemount intercooler and I'm gonna partner that with a aftermarket hotpipe and b.o.v. Aside from the frontend/climate control conversions, badges, spoiler, steering wheel, etc., I just wanted to do a Silvia conversion from the beginning and this motorswap will be the heart of the project. I'm not looking to build a drift machine or high horsepower car so this could be enough for me...and I can always upgrade later on down the road.Everythings intact and I got all the hardware.

Cleaned it up a bit.

Permacool fan and Koyo radiator.Cometic headgasket...I'm scared to put this thing on though.Can't put this stuff on until I get other stuff so I'm playing the waiting game.....

[moyea]

I know you said you can upgrade down the line but trust me, get the FMIC now. You are already spending all this money and have the car torn apart, this is the time to do it. I think many of the other SR owners would agree with me on this, you'll be happy you did.

[s13drft89]

I know you said you can upgrade down the line but trust me, get the FMIC now. You are already spending all this money and have the car torn apart, this is the time to do it. I think many of the other SR owners would agree with me on this, you'll be happy you did.

[duffman1278]

Home made boost controller I see??? Good stuff you've got there man, can't wait to see it finished.

[homeslicej2]

ROFL. Thanks for blowing my cover.

Posi, ditch the Permacool fan too. It's next to useless. Get an adjustable fan controller of your choosing, then go to a junkyard and get some Altima fans for ~$50

http://home.satx.rr.com/nissan...t.htm

"2.) The Permacool fans should not even be sold on the open market for how the performed. "

[duffman1278]

Any new updates yet?

[tiger]

I love this thread. Looking at pics is fun! I wish I had the patience to take pictures when I was doing something. :P

[J240sx]

I demand updates!

[positron1]

I put the waterpump in a while back. It's a straightforward easy install.

Tools needed:Socket wrench12mm socketRubber malletLiquid gasketRazorblade

If you haven't done so already then remove the waterpump pulley to gain access to the pump bolts.Probably nothing wrong with the old pump but I wanted to replace it with a new one for piece of mind.Part number#: 21010-52F01I got some new hardware as well.Waterpump studs Part#: 08226-61610Waterpump bolts Part#: 08120-8251EUse a 12mm socket to remove the seven waterpump bolts.The old gasket is holding steady so use a mallet or just man up and bust the waterpump loose.Got it!Old pump vs. new pump.Take a razorblade and remove the old gasket.Put the new waterpump studs in the pump, they just screw right on.It's ready for the install now.Put a continous bead of liquid gasket around the waterpump and insert it back into the block.Put your waterpump bolts back in and torque them to 12-15ft.lbs.I got a aftermarket waterpump pulley. Torque the pulley nuts to 4.6-6.1ft.lbs.And you are finished.

[duffman1278]

Dam that looks nice, good work man!

[positron1]

Tools needed:Screwdriver...duh!!!!

Lower radiator hose...forgot the part#????? OEM??? Gates#: 21921Upper radiator hose. Part#: 21501-85F01Upper radiator hose goes on the water outlet here, don't forget your hose clamps.Remove the old cut up hoses......and the lower radiator hose goes on the water outlet.Finished.

Modified by positron_ at 2:07 AM 10/27/2008
Modified by positron_ at 2:08 AM 10/27/2008

[positron1]

I replaced the speed sensor today.

Tools needed:Screwdriver10mm small head wrench...you need a small headed wrench to get to the bolt head over the hump of the speed sensor.

When you do the swap you have to swap the speed sensors out. If I'm not mistaken the US sensor reads mph while the JDM unit reads kph or m or somethin'!Just bust the screw on the speed sensor loose with a wrench and remove it.The KA speed sensor vs. the SR speed sensor...they look identical.Insert the KA speed sensor, insert the bolt, screw it in and you're done!
Modified by positronone at 4:09 AM 2/27/2008

[positron1]

I finally got the IACV gasket in so I could put my intake manifold back together and mount it.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket wrench extension10mm socket14mm socketTorque wrench

When I striped the block down I also broke the intake manifold down into it's separate pieces so I could replace all the gaskets.First off, I lost the pics I took when I put the throttlebody gasket back on but the part number for the throttlebody gasket is 16175-53J00.Next, I replaced the IACV gasket.Part#: 23785-50F00Use a razorblade to remove the old gasket.Mount the IACV onto the intake collector and torque the bolts to 6.2-8ft.lbs.Intake collector gasket.Part#: 14032-52F00Place the intake collector gasket on the intake collector...and then mount the intake runner and the intake collector together. Torque the intake bolts to 13-15ft.lbs. Also take the IACV hose and reconnect it while you're at it.Put a new intake manifold gasket on and then mount the intake manifold back on.Torque the manifold bolts to 13-15ft.lbs. and another one bites the dust.

[positron1]

I swapped out my busted crank angle sensor.

Tools needed:ScrewdriverSocket wrench 12mm socket27mm socketOil

This sensor was fine when I got the motor...don't ask me how it got busted because I don't want to talk about it.I got another CAS from a forum member and at a great price too.If you look on your crank pulley you will see a group of little notches on one side of it, these are the timing marks. Use the 27mm socket and wrench to move your crank pulley to the notch that is second from the left, this is TDC or top dead center.You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the valve cover bolts and the valve cover so you can see where the timing marks are on the crank angle sensor.If you look closely on the CAS you will see a notch on the bottom and above that notch on the shaft you will see two circles, one on the top and one on the bottom. These are the marks that you will use to set the timing to TDC later.Use a 12mm socket or a screwdriver to remove the two bolts holding the CAS in the block.Take a moment to look at where the timing marks on the CAS are at TDC. The second circle or timing mark on the shaft of the CAS is aligned perfectly with the notch on the lower part of the CAS. This is how I want the new CAS positioned.Grab the CAS and tug on it until you pop it out.The new and the old. Dip the replacement CAS in some oil before you insert it back into the block.Now for insertion. This is what has to happen, you line up the first circle on the shaft of the CAS with the notch below it and when you insert back into the block the gears will turn slightly causing the second circle or timing mark to become aligned with the notch putting you at TDC.I lined the first timing mark up, inserted it and it lined up perfectly with the second timing mark.Hopefully I won't have to adjust timing when I start the engine up (that is if it's a good engine...man I hate to think that I could be doing all this for nothing) and it'll fire up the first time.

[srdub-t]

dam looking good! all the little nuts bolts gaskets and new parts must be nickle and diming you to death.

[homeslicej2]

[positron1]

dam looking good! all the little nuts bolts gaskets and new parts must be nickle and diming you to death.

Agreed! I can't wait to get all these "bits and pieces" parts taken care of so I can get the big stuff like the clutch, flywheel and mounts and finally get this thing swapped in.