My S13 SR20DET Prep

[inkslingers13]

so red box on the left is actually an oil catch can!?



thats cool. and it has a breather valve going to the cold pipe... that works

yes its the catch can

[Kalypso]

nicemy can is dented, I am going to make a nice front mount catch can

...with a write up

EDIT:: today is a good day to learn how to weld.
Modified by Kalypso123 at 7:15 AM 6/14/2008

[duffman1278]

Very very well writen. Love how its coming out. Good thing you went with the multi layer OEM gasket too cause the ones that usually come with, well megan, are crap.

[Slideways^Jordan]

looking nice man keep it up!

[Kalypso]

the t25 is a great turbo... all it needs is a bigger compressor housing and wheel

( ... just a thought )

[tiger]

I had the same setup, megan mani and elbow.. I'd have to say it fit perfect and loved watching it change all sorts of pretty colors like purple, green and pinkish..good quality stuff i'll say.

[datsun2401972]

Excellent write up posi, but you didn't give anti-sieze enough justice. That stuff is a PITA!@#!@! to get off anything it touches! So definitely wear gloves or wash your hands immediately after use....twice.

There's no tellin how many times I've had to clean that **** off my desk at work because of guys not caring and just walking in my office and setting their dirty mits on my desk ...

[homeslicej2]

keep it coming Posi.

[positron1]

I've been debating on which flywheel to get. The Fidanza or the ACT Streetlite. Opinions...?

[duffman1278]

So whats up with this thread, waiting on the flywheel still?

[positron1]

I'm getting together the last of the parts needed like clutch, flywheel, bov etc. Stuff is on backorder, sending me the wrong parts...nothing is going right as of late.

[homeslicej2]

^ That sucks to hear.

[Kalypso]

it'll work out

get your money back and just order from different shops

[Kalypso]

looking at this, I am realizing its nearly impossible to get the turbo lines on while the turbo is in the car and the manifold is in...

Ill have to take it off...

[positron1]

Got a set of rocker arm stoppers in.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket extension10mm socket11mm socketDremel toolSmall flathead screwdriverTorque wrench

There is an excellent rocker arm stopper install already on NICO which I followed by DuckyD DIY: Greddy Rocker Arm Stoppers Install (with pics) zerothread?id=221847

Afraid of redlining or mishifting and floating a valve...get a set of rocker arm stoppers, or so they said.Greddy rocker arm stoppers.Start by removing your coilpack cover and valve cover. Check the FSM for the procedure on removing this as it needs to be done in a specific order.Backside of the cover.Internals, pretty filthy under there.I started by removing the chain guide as you won't be able to get to the two camshaft bracket bolts near the chain guide with a socket because the guide will block you. You need a 11mm socket for this.OffNext, I removed the camshaft bolts. Use a 10mm socket for these.This needs to be done in a specific order as well so follow the FSM instructions. I cheated a little as I didn't completely remove all the inner bolts. I merely loosened them.Be very careful when you remove the camshaft bracket bolts as there are very small washers on each of them and the bolts on the end of the oil tubes have two washers, one on the top of the oil tube and one on the bottom. MAKE SURE that you don't let any of these washers slide off and fall into your engine. This is where I used a small flathead screwdriver to snake into the washers on the oil tubes and snatch them off so they wouldn't fall in.When you remove the bolts place them in the order that they are in the engine so you can put the same bolt back in the same place.Baffle plate, I originally thought that you only had to mod this plate on the S14/S15's but I was thinking about something completely different. It's the S14/S15 valve covers that need to be modded with a RAS install and since this is a S13 I won't go into that.Go ahead and place the RAS into place while you have everything off. The stopper with the grooves in it is for the exhaust side while the grooveless stopper is for the intake side.Like so.Now back to the baffle plate, as you can see here it will not sit flush on top of the RAS like it did before you removed it. You have two options here, you can either remove it or shave it with a dremel tool. I read something about oil blowby so I chose to mod it.Get a dremel and a cutting tool...shave some metal off the two outer corners...Like so.Now it's flat. Make sure you clean it up with another tool and smooth out the edges.Place it on the RAS...and you can see that it sits flat and will not obstruct you anymore.No that you have that problem fixed you can go ahead and install the oil tube, camshaft bolts/washers and torque everything down. Make sure that you follow the FSM torque and tightening specs. The camshaft bolts get torqued to 6.7-8.7ft.lbs.The exhaust RAS is installed, go ahead and install the intake side RAS.Finally you need to replace the chain guard that you took off earlier.Chain guard.Torque to 12-14ft.lbs.Complete, reinstall your valve cover and coil pack cover.

[positron1]

Ever since I got a downpipe I've been wondering where the bracket on the downpipe bolts to because when I was under the car, on many occasions, I didn't remember seeing anything under there that it could mount to. After a little research I finally found out where it goes.

Exhaust mount insulator part#:20610-52F00The mount goes on this bracket that attached to the transmission mount.



This is the bracket in question located on the downpipe.It will be connected here when the engine is swapped in.

If you need nuts then use M8-1,25 and a M8 short bolt for the downpipe.The finished product will look like this.

[positron1]

I finally broke down and got a valvecover, wanted a redtop and when it came time to ship out they email me and tell me this..."Thank you for your order with us. Unfortunately, the redtop valve cover has been out of stock from nissan for quite a few months and there's no sign of them coming back in." So apparently Nissan isn't getting out anymore redtop valvecovers at all because I checked the next seven or so top Nissan parts websites and they all said the same thing. So Phase2 gave me the option of buying a unpainted cover and having it powdercoated which I did.S13 SR20DET Valvecover part#:13264-52F5BI'm going to send it out to Bonehead Performance and have it powdercoated some shade of red, probably "anodized red".Could have just powdercoated the old cover but it's got a chip on it that I'm raising the people's eyebrow at.

TO BE CONTINUED.....

[duffman1278]

You might have to bend one side of the plates on the rubber hanger piece for the downpipe ---> transmission. When I installed mine, I bent the silverish looking braket already on the transmission. The one that has 2 nuts running horizontal, and 2 vertical on the left. I bent the vertical side. But who knows, drop it in and let us know.

[Kalypso]

KEEP THE VALVE COVER SILVER

[homeslicej2]

Still looking good Posi, all this attention to detail is really going to pay off.

[TheAmazingBlaze]

Very Nice, High Five

Good luck

[Kalypso]

hey Saf I got a set of s14 turbo ss lines by accident.will they fit my stock t25 oil and coolant outlets?

I make have to keep the rubber coolant hose, but thats ok it still works.

your pump it going out tomoro, ill send you the tracking number

[positron1]

Hey, that's a good question, I want to say yes but I'm not absolutely certain so anyone else?

[Kalypso]

USPS delivery confirmation

0307 1790 0001 0437 6707

[moyea]

Hey bro, I noticed that you had wrapped the downpipe but didn't do anything for the exhaust manifold or O2 housing. Don't make the mistake I did and end up having stuff melt and catch fire, get some kind of heat protection for your set-up. Trust me, that manifold will raise your underhood temps! I ended up sending my manifold and O2 housing to be ceramic coated. Then again I only use my 240 on the track and not for street.

[positron1]

I thought about wrapping it but heard that it could possibly cause it to crack. I also read that the cracking is due to the exhaust system not being secured properly so I'm not sure what to do at this point. I've got new poly bushings on my exhuast and the downpipe will be bolted to the bracket on the transmission so I know my exhaust system will be secured.

[moyea]

Often times heat wrap corrode /crack stories are a result of improper installation. Their is a reason why they have a 1/4 inch overlap rule for the wrapping. It allows a proper amount of heat to escape that way you don't cause a "molecular" breakdown of the metal which could cause a crack. Personally I prefer ceramic coating because its cleaner, safer (if your worried about cracking), and the coating is in the inside as well as outside. Jet-Hot and Swaintech are industry leaders in this field. I haven't had the chance to take my newly coated parts to the track but underhood temps are already much much lower than before.

If your in a pinch you could do something like this:



This was done after the fire in order for me to participate in the next event. It's just a Thermo-tec manifold heat blanket which worked very well.

Edit: And here is what the ceramic coated headers look like. Kind of a dull gray but I did take them to the track and they worked well (lowered temps).


Modified by moyea at 2:40 PM 8/18/2008

[Taylor008]

Awesome thread dude. Read it front to back and it was a very good read. I'll be using this when the time comes for SR

[mRodiek]

i have read this thing front tto back along with idaho tuners & a few others & just as i told him you guys are doin something great and should be proud your not only building AWESOME cars lol your also helping othersso thanks!

[Kalypso]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...l1318

something useful for you.