My S13 SR20DET Prep

[inkslingers13]

very nice updates man! hows the pivot ball coming? now im worried and wana replace mine think ill geta nismo one. good luck and keep the updates flowing!

[positron1]

I ordered a Nismo pivot ball from West Covina because I also needed some more parts from them. I'm still waiting for them to come in.

[callmeweezy724]

whats the part number on that gates s-shaped hose u used? i kno the u shaped is a 19666..wuts the s-shaped one?

[positron1]

L Shape Gates part # 28467(other cross reference part #'s from Schucks: 80401, M63351, M63812)

S Shape Gates part # 19606(other cross reference part #'s from Schucks: S63087, 63087)

U Shape Gates part # 19666(other cross reference part # from Schucks: L63297)

Heater hose connector is 5/8" x 3/4"

[callmeweezy724]

ok good i got it..thanks a lot i also will be using your thread to help redo some parts when i get my blacktop next week.

[positron1]

[positron1]

Forgot to post this earlier...I was going to replace the knock sensor with a new one but I decided to just stick with the old one.

If you took everything loose like I did then put the knock sensor and harness back together and mount it back on the block.Put the harness back on...and don't forget about the little clip.The knock sensor mounts here under the intake manifold.Done.

[positron1]

I received my gaskets and seals today from Courtesy Nissan.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket extension12mm socketSeal pullerSeal driver

I started with the front transmission cover gasket. I was planning to swap out the front transmission seals also but I couldn't see any way to easily remove these seals without completely dissassembling the transmission and removing the shaft in order to gain access to them.The seals under the front cover appear to be in perfect condition anyway so I just decided to roll the hard six and skip replacing them.Front transmission cover gasket. Part#:32112-08U01I removed the front cover earlier and as you can see it was quite filthy, covered in grease.I got some Mean Green and a scrub brush, cleaned it up and regreased it. I hate handling dirty parts.Start by taking the O-ring and putting it in place.It will go here.Take the O-ring...and place it on the seal, it will stay in place when you put the front cover on.Take a 12mm socket and replace the 5 bolts on the front cover. Torque them to 12-15ft.lbs.Done.Next, I replaced the gearbox gasket. Part#: 32516-03U11.I pulled the old gasket off.Use a razorblade to remove all traces of the old gasket.Take the new gasket...and place it on the underside of the gearbox cover...and place it on the transmission.Use a 12mm socket to replace the six bolts. Tighten them in a similar fashion to the valve cover bolts and torque to 10-13ft.lbs.

I also replaced the transmission rear seal.Transmission rear seal. Part#: 32136-U0100.Seal puller. Wish I had this when I did the front main oil seal.Seal driver kit. This too!Take your seal puller or you could use a prybar or flathead screwdriver and place it around the inside of the seal.Like so.Pull the old seal out.Clean the area.New seal and the old seal.Lubed up the new seal with some gear oil and place it.This is where your seal driver kit comes into play. I couldn't use it the regular way because the shaft was in the way...so I took the old seal and placed it on top of the new seal.I took some of the drivers in the driver kit and placed them on top of the old seal and pushed down to seat the new transmission seal in.Finished.

[positron1]

I also put the transmission mount and crossmember back on today.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket extension12mm socket

A transmission crossmember was the only thing my engine set was missing so I took the one off my KA, cleaned and prepped it.Nismo transmission mount. Part#:11320-RS541.I'm still not sure what this bracket is for but I think it's for the exhaust. I can't remember what I unbolted from this when I pulled my KA.Bolt it back on with two nuts. Torque to 9-12ft.lbs. If you need replacements you can use M8-1,25. You can also use these for the engine mount heat shields.Take that...and bolt it to the transmission crossmember. Torque them to 16-21ft.lbs.Next you'll need these bolts to mount the crossmember to the transmission, these gold bolts with the rectangular head. If you need replacements the part number is 11390-S13002. The nuts I just got at the parts store M10-1,25. You can also use them for the engine mounts.Take the crossmember bolts and place them here.Put the crossmember into place...thread the nuts and torque to 16-21ft.lbs.Complete!

[positron1]

I also got my clutch pivot ball in today.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket extension17mm deepwell socket

When I removed the clutch fork and throwout bearing the OEM pivot ball came apart so I decided to replace it with a new unit.Nismo clutch pivot ball. Part#:30537-RS540.OEM clutch pivot vs. Nismo clutch pivot. My stock unit just split in two as you can see here.Take the new pivot...and thread it in.Use the 17mm socket to tighten it.Torque it to 14-25ft.lbs. and you're done.

While I was at it I played around with putting my clutch fork and throwout bearing back together. I couldn't exactly remember how everything fit together.Clutch fork, throwout bearing, retainer spring and holder spring.Take the clutch fork and the retainer spring...insert the tip like so in the slot on the clutch fork...and the ends into the slits on the side of the clutch fork.Take the throwout bearing/release bearing and insert the holder spring in the sides.



Slide the fork onto the throwout/release bearing and this is how it is connected.Of course it will be different when you actually put it on the transmission. The retainer spring will be around the ball of the pivot ball...and the end of the clutch fork goes through the rubber boot on the side of the transmission and makes contact with the clutch slave cylinder.

[duffman1278]

Don't forgot, put some lithium grease one that pivot ball iirc.

[positron1]

Noted!

[positron1]

Don't forgot, put some lithium grease one that pivot ball iirc.

How much should I use on there?

[duffman1278]

Nothing extreme, just liek dip your finger in the grease bottle and spread it about the ball, all around it.

[inkslingers13]

looking good! i wana see this go in your car now

[s13gebala]

looking really good , very nice

[240sxHitman]

L Shape Gates part # 28467(other cross reference part #'s from Schucks: 80401, M63351, M63812)

S Shape Gates part # 19606(other cross reference part #'s from Schucks: S63087, 63087)

U Shape Gates part # 19666(other cross reference part # from Schucks: L63297)

Heater hose connector is 5/8" x 3/4"

can you get these hoses at any parts place like auto zone? i need another L shaped hose for a water line under the intake manifold

[callmeweezy724]

can you get these hoses at any parts place like auto zone? i need another L shaped hose for a water line under the intake manifold

yea u can..i work at an auto parts store i ordered mine right up.

[240sxHitman]

I posted this question but no response yet, wanna check if you have suggestions.

my sr transmission came with a part of a driveshaft that is cut and i cant get it out for the life of me. Any suggestions for gettin it out. Its almost like its jammed. i can lift the transmission off the ground from this piece of driveshaft lol

[inkslingers13]

have you tried sliding it out? thats how they should come out. if not then it could be rounded out and stuck witch is no good

[positron1]

Pics of the transmission with the shaft in it. Sounds fixable.

[240sxHitman]

have you tried sliding it out? thats how they should come out. if not then it could be rounded out and stuck witch is no good

yup, i tried to put it in gear and just slide it out, it just feels like its stuck in there. when i turn it you can hear the gears turn inside.

Pics of the transmission with the shaft in it. Sounds fixable.

Ill post a pic up later tonight.

[240sxHitman]

yo positronone, i was wondering if you fixed your problem with the power steering pulley and the ka bracket? If you havent yet, i found out myself yesterday putting on my ka pump to the sr bracket. The piece thats hitting the pully which is the ka one, just swap it out for the sr one.

[positron1]

Aww crap yes that's it! Because the KA bracket faces forward making contact with the pulley while the SR bracket faces backward giving plenty of clearance. Thanks for the insight man! I would do that only I sold that KA pump a couple of days ago and already got a non-HICAS SR from a forum member. So to anyone looking to do this you just have to change out that bracket which needs a 10mm socket for the two screws on the front. +1 to 240sxHitman.

[positron1]

240sxHitman, did you get that driveshaft out of the transmission?

[RB25Dreamz]

Love the build up man... Kind of curious... What wrench do you use?

[positron1]

Love the build up man... Kind of curious... What wrench do you use?

Thanks and for what part?

[duffman1278]

So whats next on your SR write ups?

[positron1]

Man I'm playing the waiting game right now. I got parts bought and paid for and coming in...whenever! Hopefully I can get the exhaust manifold/turbo side of the engine written up and done this week. I also ordered a set of RAS's, the correct P/S pump and a oilpan Friday so I'm not looking to get those parts until next week. I'm getting close to the end of this thing! What's going on with your car?

[duffman1278]

Niice! My cars basically done. It starts I'm just slowly finished up suspension.