My S13 SR20DET Prep

[positron1]

That's just one, I've got like 3 and they are all different. Some have info and pics that others don't so I recommend that you find others as well.

[Hijacker]

thanks for the fsm.

how'd you convert it over to english?

You learn japanese. There is no english version of the 180sx SR20DET Factory Service Manual....yet.

We have a link in the SR FAQ (which I assume you haven't looked at) for an S14 SR20DET. It has all the torque specs, and the manual is for the UK, so it's in english

[tiger]

five stars for the thorough job, I can't wait to rebuild another motor, I like perfection and I could have done a lot better on my rebuild. I cant wait to make it super super clean, i love clean motors.. I have a 91 coupe for a DD and the engine bay is totally virgin, it has leaks and it drives me mad cause Its so nasty!

[240sxHitman]

Once again great DIY things your doing. Im looking to order my motor with in this week and cant wait to begin doing the same things

[SRspoolin]

You learn japanese. There is no english version of the 180sx SR20DET Factory Service Manual....yet.

We have a link in the SR FAQ (which I assume you haven't looked at) for an S14 SR20DET. It has all the torque specs, and the manual is for the UK, so it's in english

i know theres no english version, thats why i asked how'd you convert it cuz some people have.

and yes i have read the sr faq but my adobe was outta date and wouldnt read it but i fixed that now.

[vipercon64]

Nice Thread Thanks for incl all the part #'s it helps

[ssuto14]

love the thread... im about to do the same in my frontier...

[positron1]

So I send my old valve cover washers to Bonehead Performance for a powdercoating and I get them back today and the Post Office screws me. The package is ripped and I'm missing five of the twelve valve cover washers....WTF!!! They, the Postal Office, include some letter about how sorry they are for the inconvenience but no mention whatsoever about resolving the problem.

Yea, they screwed me!!! Bonehead Performance did an excellent job powdercoating them by the way!

[luv2spedup]

dude great job, your thread makes me want to rip my motor apart again, good luck

[homeslicej2]

So I send my old valve cover washers to Bonehead Performance for a powdercoating and I get them back today and the Post Office screws me. The package is ripped and I'm missing five of the twelve valve cover washers....WTF!!! They, the Postal Office, include some letter about how sorry they are for the inconvenience but no mention whatsoever about resolving the problem.

Yea, they screwed me!!! Bonehead Performance did an excellent job powdercoating them by the way!

that sucks!

[inkslingers13]

if your package was insured you need to make them pay for a brand new set plus cost of powder coating!!! thats so F#CKED UP!!!! looking good though man!

[positron1]

I replaced the coolant temp sensor and gauge sensors today.

Tools needed:12mm wrench 19mm wrenchTeflon tape

The coolant temp sensor and the coolant gauge sensor. On the KA24DE engine you could get these sensors off without taking off the intake manifold but on the SR the manifold blocks you so it had to come off.Use a 19mm wrench to remove the coolant temp sensor.Coolant temperature sensor, this sends the signal to your ECU.Use a 12mm wrench to remove the coolant gauge sensor...yeah I'm rockin' the Wal-Mart wrenches.Coolant gauge sensor, this sends the signal to the temperature gauge on your gauge cluster.Put some teflon tape on the threads of the new units and....it's time to install them.The new coolant gauge sensor.The new coolant temp sensor.Finished! And you don't need to remove the intake manifold to get these off, just use deepwell sockets.
Modified by positronone at 12:11 PM 5/13/2008

[positron1]

I finally got around to putting my alternator back on.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket extension12mm socket14mm socket23mm socketOil filter pliersBreaker bar

I got a set of aftermarket pullies and needed to put the alternator pulley on before I installed the alternator back on the block. The problem here is that the pulley spins when you touch it so I needed to find a way to stop it from spinning so I could take the alternator pulley nut off.I played around with a few ideas and came up with this one. I got my oil filter pliers out.The pulley is close to the same size in width as a oil filter so I put the alternator on the ground, placed the oil filter pliers around it with my left foot on the handles to hold it and used the 23mm socket and breaker bar to bust the alternator nut loose.Alternator nut.The OEM pulley and washer.Alternator.Take the alternator bracket and use a 14mm socket with an extension to bolt the three alternator bolts into the block here.There's two 12mm bolts on the bottom of the alternator bracket here.The alternator with bolts both top and bottom.The extra long bolt on the bottom of the picture above goes through the bottom of the alternator and bracket. The other bolts are for your ground wires of course.The bolts on the top of the pic from earlier go through the top of the alternator and bracket in a L formation.

I installed and torqued the new pulley back on the alternator in the same fashion that I took off the OEM pulley so I just took pics of the uninstalled pulley just to show how it goes back on for reference.

Greddy alternator pulley with spacer and alternator nut.Alternator.Unlike the OEM pulley that had a washer or spacer right under the alternator nut, the Greddy pulley comes with a spacer that goes on first. I read that it's there to keep the pulley from bottoming out or something.The pulley goes on next.You can see the spacer here, I haven't torqued them down yet though.Finally the alternator nut, I couldn't find torque specs for this so anyone????Finished!

[positron1]

I finally found out where the loose hoses I had for the intake manifold go.

Tools needed: HoseHose clampsFlathead screwdriverKnife

For sometime I couldn't figure or find out where the hoses for the coolant line, water line, IACV and throttlebody go but now I know thanks to some help from the forum.It was mainly these two off the coolant and water lines...and this port off the water line.I started with the port coming off the water line.Cut the hose and it connects to the small port on the back of the IACV that points straight down....like so. Somebody who's done this tell me if this is okay. I didn't want to cut the hose too short to keep it kink free.The port coming off the coolant line goes to the other small port on the back of the IACV that points off to the side.In order to keep this kink free as well I let it loop around slightly like so...until it connects.Next there was this one on the water line towards the sensor housing.It connects to the port on the bottom left of the throttlebody, you know the one that points downward.Then there is this one on the bottom right of the throttlebody.It connects here to the port on the sensor housing...like so.And so.Finally there's the smaller hose that goes from the port on the bottom of the fuel regulator here...to here.Like so and done. Probably have to make some changes later with the boost controller and whatnot.

Helpful thread by Hijacker DIY: Rebuilding an SR20DEThttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...83516
Modified by positronone at 2:18 PM 3/20/2008

[positron1]

During the replacement of my fuel injector seals I accidently dropped an injector and cracked the little yellow cap on the tip of the injector. So for fun I took an injector off my KA to see if it would fit the SR injector.Sure enough, it did fit...problem solved!I put the injector in the rail with the rest.Now I was ready to put the fuel rail back on the intake manifold. To do that there are four bolts, washers and insulators for mounting. The rubber insolators go on first in between the intake manifold and the fuel rail, then the washer goes on the rail and the bolt goes in after that. The rail bolts get torqued to 15-20ft.lbs.Next, the small hose on the top of the intake manifold needs to be connected to the fuel rail.Finished.

[Hijacker]

That's actually backwards from the stock routing for the IACV, but it doesn't really matter. There's no correct direction of water flow for the IACV. I'd just be worried about the cleanliness of having such long hoses routed in funny loops like that.

Also, you can easily take the temp sensors out with the manifold on. You just need deepwell sockets. And I have never used teflon tape on those sensors and haven't had leaking.

[positron1]

That's actually backwards from the stock routing for the IACV, but it doesn't really matter. There's no correct direction of water flow for the IACV. I'd just be worried about the cleanliness of having such long hoses routed in funny loops like that.

Also, you can easily take the temp sensors out with the manifold on. You just need deepwell sockets. And I have never used teflon tape on those sensors and haven't had leaking.

Yeah, I saw some deepwell sockets when I went to AutoZone and thought about that. I don't have any deep wells at all so I didn't really think about it when I was taking those things off so thanks for the info. So I have the hoses on the IACV backwards and you think I should trim some hose off? I was worried that those hoses were too long.

[homeslicej2]

Hmm....the shop that did my swap blocked off the coolant port next to the two temp sensors and there are no hoses running into the bottom two big ports of the TB that you have coolant lines running into. Is this something I need to remedy or does it really matter? IIRC the shop tech told me something like they were coolant ports that were only required for the J-spec chassis and weren't necessary for US-spec one. idk

[Hijacker]

The point of running the coolant hoses to the throttle body like that is for cold weather warm up. It helps keep the throttle body from seizing up when it's cold out.

Posi, for cleanliness I would shorten the hoses and route them in reverse of what you have now, but you don't need to do that as there's no ill effects from having them routed the way you do have it. It would be for purely aesthetic and packaging reasons.

[homeslicej2]

The point of running the coolant hoses to the throttle body like that is for cold weather warm up. It helps keep the throttle body from seizing up when it's cold out....

oh. That's cool. It doesn't get super cold in GA and on the flip side, wouldn't it help with air intake temps on hot days, since the coolant isn't running through the TB?

[idahotuner]

oh. That's cool. It doesn't get super cold in GA and on the flip side, wouldn't it help with air intake temps on hot days, since the coolant isn't running through the TB?

correct throetically it should add a little power becasue it wouldnt be warming up intake temps.i am going to cap of the ones going to the iacv as well seeing as there is no real reason for them.

[positron1]

The point of running the coolant hoses to the throttle body like that is for cold weather warm up. It helps keep the throttle body from seizing up when it's cold out.

Posi, for cleanliness I would shorten the hoses and route them in reverse of what you have now, but you don't need to do that as there's no ill effects from having them routed the way you do have it. It would be for purely aesthetic and packaging reasons.

Cool, I'll do that. One more thing, should I cap off the little tiny port that sits under the throttlebody in the middle?

[positron1]

Very helpful and informative thread by Hijacker DIY: Rebuilding an SR20DET zer...83516

[positron1]

That's actually backwards from the stock routing for the IACV, but it doesn't really matter. There's no correct direction of water flow for the IACV. I'd just be worried about the cleanliness of having such long hoses routed in funny loops like that.

Also, you can easily take the temp sensors out with the manifold on. You just need deepwell sockets. And I have never used teflon tape on those sensors and haven't had leaking.

Okay I went under, trimmed the hoses and rerouted them. Is this better?



I also replaced my chipped up CAS cover while I was at it.Old cover.Old vs. new.New cover.

[240sxHitman]

Thanks positronone for all that your doing. I just ordered my motor and I plan on changing all those hoses and glad your doing a DIY on these things. keep it up

[positron1]

Thanks positronone for all that your doing. I just ordered my motor and I plan on changing all those hoses and glad your doing a DIY on these things. keep it up

Thanks! Pics when you get your engine!

[Rellik27]

[duffman1278]

Just to make sure, you did "POP" the fuel injectors in right? Not walk them in with the caps?

[positron1]

Just to make sure, you did "POP" the fuel injectors in right? Not walk them in with the caps?

Yeah, I popped them in.

[240sxHitman]

Thanks! Pics when you get your engine!

Oh most definitely . I cant wait, I can barely sleep just thinking that my motor is in transit.