RustspecS13 wrote:Sci- Id reccomend nistune. Its very powerful, aussie guys have Z32's and Skylines running 600-700whp on stock ecus with nistune no problem. I would have nistune by now but I bought a new s13 shell lol.

~Alex

Another option I need to look into. I just have to find someone locally who is familliar with it, and comfortable tuning a setup as odd as mine.

I really appreciate the input, as I am not the least bit inclined when it comes to EMS/tuning.

I just picked up a perfect running turbo z31 for $400, so I've been focused on getting seat time in the beater(like last night) over finishing the s13. I'd end up spending more on headlights for my s13 than the entire z if I were to hit a wall. Catch my drift

Now the s13 is pretty much down to tuning(and whatever other little issues we'll run into) So any advice as far as EMS is much appriciated

Shocker wrote:I'm pretty sure its there for oiling purposes.... have fun with that tho...

I once thought it was to allow more room for the turbo. Then the rb26 has a pumpkin on the intake side to slanting intake up will allow more room.

Rare_f8 wrote:
I once thought it was to allow more room for the turbo. Then the rb26 has a pumpkin on the intake side to slanting intake up will allow more room.

Pics of said pumpkin???

top of pic:

Rare_f8 wrote:top of pic:

So the pumpkin you are talking about is the thing on the top(of your pic) on the oil pan?

Whats its purpose??

it's the front differential for the GTR's AWD. Only found on rb26 motors.

brilliant engineering by nissan.

i wander if you can hook that up on a 20 and turn it awd

miguel granville wrote:i wander if you can hook that up on a 20 and turn it awd

IIRC, there was an R32 model that came factory with an AWD RB20.

But for the ammount of work involved, why not just go RB26??

You cannot bolt a awd pan/diff to a rb20 unless the block was originally a awd block. The only bolt holes that line up are the front 4 and back 4. The rest down both sides are completely off. Goes the same for the rb25 aswell.

So a little bit of an update:

Looks like the motor is finished. There were a bunch of little things that needed to be done like resurfacing the intakes matting surfaces, bunch of vacuum hoses, etc....

I got the ECU ROM tuned by Carl.

Went to start up the car, but couldn't get it to idle. It starts popping like it wants to run, but then dies. The gas in it was 2 years old, so I drained the tank and put fresh gas in.

A buddy suggested I spray some carb cleaner in the pletnum and see what happens, so I did. The engine fired right up and sounded awesome, but only ran for a few seconds before dieing again.

I'm leaning towards it being a fuel issue, does this sound right? I have a gauge on the FPR and pulled the fuel feed line from the rail to confirm its getting gas. pressure looks right.

If I can't get it figured out over the weekend I'm going to take it to a buddys shop and have him take a look at it.

Any ideas on what I should start checking first?

^^^ I think you broke the internet...

Ya, I"m not sure why its doing that,

I may have to make a new thread

I feel like I'm trapped in your [quote]....

good job mate, been following progress and I like your setip. Im doing the same thing on my RB25, will probably maka a small DIY for everyone out there. Wish the 25 runners were like 20's. On the 25, they go every which way but straight out so its a HUGE pain the a** to get them welded to a flange. I look forward to some videos of your car:bigthumb:

that set up is the titts, i'm green with jealousy, soon as I get some cash that's my next mod, Q? you still lean out #5 & #6?
I'm not to sure on just how to fix that one on my RB20DET, maybe you could shoot my some info on that?

Not thread jacking, sorry. Could not email or im these people for some reason

godzilla_753 and bradley66 - Email me @ [email protected] if your interested in a complete rb20/25 itb set up. I bought one of a member here who had it on there car running and never installed it and have since ditched the project, its a complete rb26 intake manifold with custom plates to bolt to a rb20/25

Some new pics after paint:

looking good man !!

Ever put it on a dyno? I'm always interested in hearing about other RB20's with big turbo's.

beautiful car, I actually got my rb finally started after months of work so im hella excited. Ill take some pictures and post my setup in here as well!

Thread revival!

Just a small update

Ok, so here is where we left off:



Everything was going good, ITB's were finished and all sync'd up....and then we found sand in my oil

Best guess as to how it got there is maybe from when the valve covers were sand blasted and powdercoated. Not really sure, but at this point, it doesn't make a difference anyways as the damage has been done.

So I've been gathering parts for a rebuild. And I figured while I'm in there, may as well go all out, right? I mean, why not?

Picked up an RB26 crank w/ collar and Eagle rods from Cory(Shocker)





82mm CP pistons(9:1 CR) ordered from Ricky @ RawBrokerage, great service as always!







Cometic head gasket



And a new turbo while I'm at it, EFR 6258







Still waiting on ARP main studs and ACL race bearings to come in. I've already got a new waterpump, Greddy timing belt/idler pulley/tensioner pulley, ARP headstuds, Wiringspecialties harness, etc...

Right now we're just waiting for the waterjet to finish the torque plate so we can start machining the block.

More to follow....

So the knocking sound was the rod bearings going to s*** from the sand in the oil? RB24 NICE!!!! get some bigger valves for that head too.

Yellow4g63 wrote:So the knocking sound was the rod bearings going to s*** from the sand in the oil? RB24 NICE!!!! get some bigger valves for that head too.

Yup. While I'm not thrilled about the mishap, good things have come from an otherwise bad situation. I considered all my options, and overall, it would have been much cheaper to go RB25 from the beginning. I could have even gone 2J or RB26 with the amount of money I have into the car now. But since I already had everything setup for an RB20(ITB's, Turbo setup, downpipe, wiring, etc...) and I have so much time invested into the build, I decided to stick with this platform and not give up.

Needless to say, I'm extremely excited!

I've got the head at a shop that does some really nice headwork right now getting ported and polished. From everything I've read, the RB20 head is not known to flow that well at all, So the headwork should help out quite a bit.

The only company I found that has off the shelf oversized valves is Supertech, and they're about $600. How significant of a difference do you think they'd make? Where would I notice the difference? I'm guessing that the turbo would spool quicker and overall power output would increase due to more flow, does this sound about right?

Would they require anything else to install, such as different springs or retainers? Or is it just the cost of the valves and labor to have the head fitted for them?

You've got me seriously considering them since I've gone this far already and I don't wanna crack the engine open again for a long time, so I'm trying to get everything done in one shot. If I do go with them, It'll definitely prolong the build for at least a few weeks from a financial standpoint, but I'm thinking it may be worth it.

Sorry for all the questions, lol. Looks like I've got some research to do

My power goals aren't that high at all, I just want a super responsive setup. The turbo is rated for 450HP, but it spools ridiculously fast(my buddy has one on his SR and it's at full boost before 3.5K). That combined with the added displacement and my 550cc injectors should have no problem making a very responsive setup with 375+ RWHP extremely reliably. Should be a very fun car to drive

Ask the guy doing the head work if it will help. The smaller valves will promote faster velocity vs a bigger one, Then it goes into it's turbo not N/A lol that always throws me for a loop.

velocity kinda goes out the window in a forced induction situation(to a point) as you're stuffing in the air. Larger valves from what my machinist has told me are only beneficial if the combustion chamber will support a significant amount of increase in size. 1mm oversize is better than nothing especially in a head that flows like the 20. He hasn't finished the head as I am waiting on the valves but he is anticipating the only a mild increase in flow from the larger valves. The most significant will come from the port / chamber work. I'm not a machinist, but my dude I know is very competent and I trust his opinion.BTW, simply a killer job on that intake!

my .02

uber95 wrote:velocity kinda goes out the window in a forced induction situation(to a point) as you're stuffing in the air. Larger valves from what my machinist has told me are only beneficial if the combustion chamber will support a significant amount of increase in size. 1mm oversize is better than nothing especially in a head that flows like the 20. He hasn't finished the head as I am waiting on the valves but he is anticipating the only a mild increase in flow from the larger valves. The most significant will come from the port / chamber work. I'm not a machinist, but my dude I know is very competent and I trust his opinion.BTW, simply a killer job on that intake!

my .02

Thanks for the input, it's much appreciated! That's very similar to what my engine builder was telling me as well. For now, I will be sticking with the stock valves more than likely. I might go with larger valves and more aggressive cams in the future, but not at this stage of the build.

Thanks for the compliment on the intake. I can't take credit for the welding tho, my buddy did a fantastic job on that. Do you have a build thread on here?



So here's what the new turbo looks like in the car. This thing is so much nicer then the old turbo, the technology is just leaps and bounds ahead. The Titanium Aluminide turbine wheel is about half the weight of a standard inconel steel one. It's got a forge milled aluminum compressor wheel and a dual ball bearing CHRA. The built in recirculation valve keeps the turbo spinning inbetween shifts and eliminates the need for a BOV, and the list goes on and on....









I also ordered up some VibrantPerformance VanJen Clamps for my intercooler piping. No more couplers in the system, and no more boost leaks or I/C pipes blowing off leaving me stranded. I was originally going to go with Wiggins clamps, but these were a good bit cheaper and appear to be easier to use






Little by little, it's getting closer to being finished and finally drivable again