definetly going to do this. but, i a little ocd problemwith Symmetry. and a slanted motor kills me. im going to cut the ears off the transmission and re-weld after i straighten the motor out. lol i cant help it.

Im not ganna lie though, those dam volks look fresh as f***. Nice car over all! Do you have any turbo's in mind once you upgrade it?

that is the most retarded thing i have heard of.it sits slanted for a reason...

well i expected that response so no hard feeling carl. it has no use offsetting the weight of the driver anymore.

I'm pretty sure its there for oiling purposes.... have fun with that tho...

Andyb2637 wrote:Im not ganna lie though, those dam volks look fresh as f***. Nice car over all! Do you have any turbo's in mind once you upgrade it?

Thanks!

If I upgrade the turbo on this motor, it would most likely be a GT3071r twin scroll(I think they make a twin scroll 3071). But as you can tell by my setup, I'm all about making power lower in in the powerband. So I may just go with an RB30/25 build later on. I could use the same exhaust manifold and W/G along with a whole bunch of other parts.

Shocker wrote:I'm pretty sure its there for oiling purposes.... have fun with that tho...

Thats the impression I was always under.

hey did you weld a new water neck in?

most likley a tig welder the puddles are very nice and even, it looked like it was welded slow too. bad a** though very impressive with the itbs!

PorkChopExpress wrote:definetly going to do this. but, i a little ocd problemwith Symmetry. and a slanted motor kills me. im going to cut the ears off the transmission and re-weld after i straighten the motor out. lol i cant help it.

While you are at it, make a mirror image intake manifold for the exhaust side. You can also try welding shut the lower radiator neck and moving it to the top, so you can have an upper radiator hose on both left and right sides. Last, but not least, make a steering wheel for the right side with a full set of guages and all while retaining your normal left hand steering.

The engine sits slanted because it was designed that way. Take a look at the oil pan and see how level it is.

I am pleased that I saw this thread. I am interested in your results.

looks nice! motor is tilted for oiling reasons btw

Small update:

After finally getting a new DD, it's time to get back to work on the vert.



Here's the factory waterneck.

The problem is the top of it was hitting one of the ITB's, so after multiple attempts, we finally came up with this design.



And it fits perfect.



Tomorrow the car goes back to Adam's to re-do the core support and anything else welding-related.

Almost done with the wiring, so it's only a matter of time before its up and running again.

More updates to follow

sweet! I love what you did with the engine looks killer and can't wait to see the performance outputs.

Thats some creativity! Good job on all the fab work.

Any updates? I'm really interested in results and sound it makes!

And that turbo looks interesting. Looks like a great over all setup.

OH and if you want to test it on a stock car, send it my way i'll deal with all the issues of making it fit my car (new cold pipe and such )

~Alex

RustspecS13 wrote:Any updates? I'm really interested in results and sound it makes!

And that turbo looks interesting. Looks like a great over all setup.

~Alex

The car is still at StreetorStrip Concept right now getting the core support finished. All we really have left is the mounting tabs for the headlights and bumper.

Adam also finished my power steering reservoir.

I'm hoping to have the core support and an oil catch can done by the end of next week so I can get it into Ace Up motorsports to finish the wiring.

I'll snap some pics of the progress this weekend.

RustspecS13 wrote:OH and if you want to test it on a stock car, send it my way i'll deal with all the issues of making it fit my car (new cold pipe and such )

~Alex

If we get positive results and decide to make it into a production kit, I'll let ya know

Otherwise, everything you need to know for building your own setup is right here

Ah well at least theres progress. Alot of cool projects always seem to die off.

Are you on aim? If you are Id like to chat about the itb conversion.

So are you doing all the fab work your self or with friends at their shop? I wish I had friends like that...

~Alex

Soo...Soo bad a**. I am with out a doubt doing this once I go fully aftermarket on the exhaust side of the motor.

Looks very very nice. and seems to be a good alternative to buying a aftermarkin manifold, seeing as for the 20's I have only seen one that happens to be $900... So im pretty sure this is a little cheaper lol. Keep the updates coming, I really wanna fallow this write up, in due time.

sent email reguarding the flanges you had cut.

hey i just picked up 2 complete rb26 manifolds i dont have the same amount of space like you do on your car what i need to know is can i cut the rb20 runners a bit shorter so that it will fit in my car ?and what about the aac valve setup, did you use the rb26 setup or what ?

Any updates? Im interested in what your details are for tunning? What are you tuning with? How did you synch/tune the ITBS to make sure that they were all times 100% perfectly, and that they all 6 open at the exact same time, and all at the exact same position, with like the butterfly positioning n stuff. lmk im interested in this, but want to make sure everything that needs to be done, before I start looking into this.

Ah man, I too am hoping for updates.

This is pure fap material here.

Not much of an update, but the core support and all the welding is done.

I literally just got back from the auto parts store with a new thermostat, fuel/oil filter, belts, etc...thats how close it is

Right now, the car is at Ace Up Motorsports getting the wire tuck finished. Wiring should be done by this week, then i get to go through and find all the little things I missed before first startup

miguel granville wrote:hey i just picked up 2 complete rb26 manifolds i dont have the same amount of space like you do on your car what i need to know is can i cut the rb20 runners a bit shorter so that it will fit in my car ?and what about the aac valve setup, did you use the rb26 setup or what ?

Yes, there is a little bit of room to cut the runners shorter. I chose to give them a little more length to have room to play with, and in theory, help with the harmonics of the airflow.

I completely ditched the AAC setup. A buddy of mine had no troulbe getting his RB20 to idle/run perfect without one by adjusting the set screw on the TB (running on a ROM tune)

Quote »Any updates? Im interested in what your details are for tunning? What are you tuning with? How did you synch/tune the ITBS to make sure that they were all times 100% perfectly, and that they all 6 open at the exact same time, and all at the exact same position, with like the butterfly positioning n stuff. lmk im interested in this, but want to make sure everything that needs to be done, before I start looking into this.

All 6 throttle bodies are connected by a linkage that goes to a single pulley. When pulley turns, all 6 throttle bodies will rotate the same exact distance from there resting position. Kind hard to explain, but it's pretty simple.

In addition, each throttle body has a set screw to controll how open/closed it is at idle. It should be a simple as adjusting the set screws so all TB's sit the same, and playing around with how far the set screws need to be to give my desired airflow at idle.

Tuning is out of my hands, I wouldn't even know where to begin. One of our local guys is gonna give it a shot with a ROM tune.

All the air going in is still measured by the MAFS, so I don't see any problems there, but I don't know the first thing about tuning. I guess its all trial and error from here.

I'll try and snap some updated pics when I get a chance...

EDIT:

RustSpec wrote:Ah well at least theres progress. Alot of cool projects always seem to die off.Are you on aim? If you are Id like to chat about the itb conversion.

So are you doing all the fab work your self or with friends at their shop? I wish I had friends like that...

~Alex

Sorry for the late reply, lol. I didn't see your post till just now.

No AIM, but you can always Email me at [email protected]

If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask them in this thread as well. All the little details may be a wealth of information to someone else who wants to do this down the road

The work is all being done by myself and a few buddies. One of them, Adam, owns a fab shop, so taking up his buisness hours wasn't free, but his prices are very reasonable for the quality of work.

Other than the welding and cutting, Myself with the help of a few friends, did the rest out of my garage(minus the wiring)

Don't worry about this project dying off

Your using a MAFS

I heard that it would be stupid, and nearly impossible to tune with a MAF and this sort of ITB set up, and to switch to a stand alone with a MAP sensor.

Once again keep the updates coming, and details as to what needed to be done, and a reallly really big help would be to try and find out when tuning, what all needed to be delt with that a regular tune does not consist of, and about how long the tune took with this set up. Thanks again man, and as many have stated, I love this setup, and am still interested!

90240sxca18 wrote:Your using a MAFS

I heard that it would be stupid, and nearly impossible to tune with a MAF and this sort of ITB set up, and to switch to a stand alone with a MAP sensor.

Once again keep the updates coming, and details as to what needed to be done, and a reallly really big help would be to try and find out when tuning, what all needed to be delt with that a regular tune does not consist of, and about how long the tune took with this set up. Thanks again man, and as many have stated, I love this setup, and am still interested!

Any specifics as to why a MAFS wouldn't work? I know theres way more than just measuring air going in and adding fuel, but I'd like to know if going MAP would really work better.

If I go standalone, I've been told to look into pro EFI, any opinions?

There just isn't very much info at all on tuning a setup like this, so I'm curious to see what problems/differences we run into. I'll be sure to post any and all info here.

Hess are rb26 itbs and the 26 has twin Mafs stock. The cheapest and simplest way would be to continue along the stock route.

Sil240 wrote:Hess are rb26 itbs and the 26 has twin Mafs stock. The cheapest and simplest way would be to continue along the stock route.

+1 and a Z32 MAF would do the trick.

Yup, Z32 MAFS is already wired in. I have it on the coldpipe inbetween the IC and intake pletnum.

Hey Ricky, any updates on the vert?

I hate map sensor style setups. Nissan knows what they are doing, and they always use mafs.

Maps are very coarse. The difference between 60% throttle on a na engine isn't that far off signal wise from 100%. Where as a maf setup measures actual air flow through the intake system, where as map measures pressure.

For a boosted engine 10psi on a stock turbo is different then 10psi on a upgraded turbo. A maf system would see the difference, a map system would not.

Sci- Id reccomend nistune. Its very powerful, aussie guys have Z32's and Skylines running 600-700whp on stock ecus with nistune no problem. I would have nistune by now but I bought a new s13 shell lol.

~Alex

RustspecS13 wrote:IFor a boosted engine 10psi on a stock turbo is different then 10psi on a upgraded turbo. A maf system would see the difference, a map system would not.

thats why i actually like cold weather.

RustspecS13 wrote: I would have nistune by now but I bought a new s13 shell lol.

~Alex

i almost bought a shell 2 weeks ago, which im probably gonna regret.