I vote metal head gasket and arp head studs if you can afford them. The factory's might not work any more since they have been TQed down 2 times already.

if you overheated the motor to the point that there was coolant in the cylinder bores then you should really have the head checked for straightness...regardless if it had been decked in the past or not.
a stock hg may seal a tweaked head but a MHG will not at all.

I have ARP studs/hardware. I think OEM is what I'm going to do since 400-500hp is what I expect at most.

I had a lil over 1300miles...should I have retorqued my head? I never read anyone saying that you need to retorque ARP stuff like OEM bolts...I can always find a straight edge to check the head out while it's off.

I was going to drain the oil and put a few quarts in to keep my bearings from rusting. hopefully on the 4th I can order a HG and have this fixed ASAP.

have a shop clean and check for straightness...shouldnt be more than 50$ to do this.
if you are using brand new arp studs then a retorque is a must!
i normally check them after about 300mi as they have stretched by then...once they've stretched you shouldnt need to retorque again.
doesnt hurt to check and be sure you use the arp lube!

Why do you suggest I have the head cleaned? I only have water in my cooling system so it should be an easy clean up of the oil system. I honestly don't think any water got in the oil til after it sat over night, so it could all just be in the pan.

I also do have a OEM HG I got it with my motors it doesn't look used but if I put it in and it fails I'd be so mad but I could also have the car fixed this week if I use it...

mainly to remove any old traces of composite and to check for cracks/straightness.
i do this will all heads i remove even if they were recently decked as i'd rather spend a little to know its ok than put it on and realize its bad.

Kinda stressing by the time I can order and get my HG it'll be around 12 days of my car sitting...hope my bearings don't rust up.

Also since my ARP studs "stretched" from being run do I still need to go back in and retorque them after this swap? Just wondering. It'd be nice to get cams and put them in if I do need to go retorque it. I just don't want to pull my Throttle Body and have to make a new gasket for it

shouldnt have to retorque but its good practice to do so to verify they havent loosened.

Nistune is done, car is running again. About to go test drive... Stock Tune tho

What would be a good price for my motorset??? ....

why?
i'll give you 5$ and a ham sammitch.

$6 and super taco.

man andy, you play hard ball.
10$ and a turkey club with extra bacon.

I hit a curb facing the opposite way of the road, went up hit another curb and slid backwards along the sidewalk. I remember climbing out and pushing the car over getting back in starting it up and moved it like 10-20ft to the corner where it died. I got out and tried to pull my intercooler out from under my car to hook it back up but it was stuck workers at the gas station came out I tried to call some friends to pull me out. Cops came I got a DUI. Got my car towed home.

I blacked out

driver tie rod and LCA are bent 90degreees!!!! thats why the wheel is pushed so far back, the pass tie rod is bent like that too I didnt even hit anything on there...IDK cant trust the crossmember or rear subframe what do you think.

All bad tho

Sooo I got a shell



Swapping my non-abs brake lines, suspension (shocks/springs), and motorset (duh)

I towed the shell to the new house I'm moving too and I need to tow my wrecked 14 over still then I can get to work swapping everything.

So I'll have updates in a month hopefully sooner.

Tim

that looks like it sucks...doing a swap in dirt.

Carl H wrote:that looks like it sucks...doing a swap in dirt.

Lol...bet it does, been there done that myself...hope u have better luck with this one, make sure to post some videos when u get that new turbo on there..

I had the shells in rocks on the side of a dam near 45degree driveway before so flat dirt (when the rain clears up) is a much better area. The motor swaps are effortless. I just need to get my turbo and oil lines ran before I get the motor in.
It doesn't seem like I need to hammer my firewall for my starter much. seems like none at all for the tranny tunnel... I just have an ebay mount kit from the looks of it.

Pics of turbo in the next week

Tim

Free Shipping on Turbo's!!! Picked this up from Raw Brokerage good to talk to Sean over there.






I <3 buying out of state parts lol SCREW CA's taxes

It'll be awhile before I get it set up and the motor in but I'm pleased the 500-550hp is the most I'd want to push my 26 rods to anyways. I'm still going to tune it for the stock 370cc's but when I decide to upgrade my injectors it'll be ready

Cheers! Tim

I'm pushing >650 whp on stock GTR rods. Don't be scared if you have a good tune. Heck, there are guys with 650hp on stock RB25 rods and the RB26 rods are way thicker at the big end. I'd be worried about pistons before rods anyways.

i'd be more worried about rod bolts before anything, especially if spinning the motor hard.

Darius wrote:I'm pushing >650 whp on stock GTR rods. Don't be scared if you have a good tune. Heck, there are guys with 650hp on stock RB25 rods and the RB26 rods are way thicker at the big end. I'd be worried about pistons before rods anyways.

Installed- Wiseco Pistons 86.5mm

I know ppl abuse the 25 rods lol stock pistons too! You are right good tune is important I'll get my Nistune tuned with the new turbo asap I hate the idea of slapping on a turbo and just upping the fuel, especially when I don't have proper guages to monitor it.

Carl H wrote:i'd be more worried about rod bolts before anything, especially if spinning the motor hard.

ARP Studs were installed at the shop when machine work was done

I'm dreading possibly having to buy an exhaust manifold. I dont want a cheap mani anyone know if u can still get the Stech manifolds?

arp head studs or rod bolts?
if you reused the stock rod bolts its only a matter of time before you have a nice window thru your block.

Carl H wrote:arp head studs or rod bolts?
if you reused the stock rod bolts its only a matter of time before you have a nice window thru your block.

Carl is spot on. This is critically important! It is also a good point to bring up because a lot of attention is usually given to the head gasket and pistons since they are the first things to fail. Along those lines, it is also important to have the rods machined once the new ARP fasteners are installed and torqued down to ensure a perfectly cylindrical big-end bore.

Head and Rod it's in the thread!!! lol I will redo a good update post with a rundown later

CXRacing Topmount Manifold and Chrome Godspeed Intake Manifold ordered finally caved stock setup was a hassle


Tim

Just got my JGY fuel rail in, ordered a pair of 10" efans should be here early in the week. I'll update more this coming week car should be good to go!

I purchased R35 Injectors from my friend for $215-225 i forget, but thats what I'll tune on. When I wake up I'm adjusting the JGY Fuel Rail brackets to fit and then wire my MAF and fire it up. I may go to DMV and register it in my name so I can get a temp tag. Need to tow it to a friends exhaust shop for my elbow. I have a 3"X8" flex pipe to put in (already have downpipe and exhaust with resonator), then on Friday I get paid and can tune it. I may be able to get the $ to tune it sooner. Other then the efans showing up I need tires/wheels to borrow so I can drive it, and a 90degree fitting for the Wastegate vacuum line.

more updates and pics soon