I tried taking a vid of what my wideband does but couldn't get a good enough shot while driving so instead of wrecking my car on the freeway I'll wait till the wife is with me...

An exhaust leak would be a vac /boost leak right? Im going to be checking for that tomorrow I think I have a leak in the manifold somewhere

No, but it could still mess up your O2 readings.

Well I don't know what happened but the afrs read fine and the car runs great. On Thursday I pulled the turbo, wastegate and manifold to see if I had any leaks and there were none the exhaust leak sound must of been from it running like crap *shrugs* My idle afr is still rich but the out of boost afr is 13 14 while cruising and in boost jumps down to 11 12 it has smoother acceleration throttle feels way better you can hear the turbo more. So I'm not quite sure what happened and I don't know how to fix a problem that's not there so I guess I'm fine until it decides to come back.

Dont' fix it if it ain't broke!

Yeah I was thinking that exact same thing lol It runs awesome now. lol I need to find me an safc that works so I can install my n60 maf add my evo injectors and turn up the boost. but before all that I want to see how much power I'm putting down with my set up the way it is. Oh and I am running a 18et maf I cross checked the numbers it turns out the Maf I sold was the 18det one. I'll just leave the 18et one until I swap to the n60.

Ok I need to know if any of you are using external wastegates? How do you know if it is taking a s*** on on you? My boost gauge reads 5psi like it always has but the torque/power isn't there like it was when I first got the car back when I checked for my exhaust leak I also checked the turbo and there was very little side to side shaft play and no in and out shaft play it doesn't sound like the fins are rubbing either. I can't figure it out. Any body have any ideas?

I posted on the FB post, but it sounds like the ignition timing is out to me. Check the CAS and the exhaust came splines.

Will do I so badly want to add bigger injectors and turn the boost up but I keep running into problems lol

Be patient man. It's better to have issues at low power levels than high power levels.

I am I don't want to hurt anything so I am being very patient. At the same time I'm eager to know what it can do lol

Quick question can I hook up my n60 maf and not haven issue if I stay with stock boost and stock injectors?

No. You can't change MAFS w/o a tune or some sort of piggyback.

Thats what I thought was just curious I want to get rid of the 18et maf I'm running.

Checked the splines and all is well checked timing and it was off adjusted the cas and now the car runs awesome!

good to hear! i have to go and re-read your thread but there is nothing better than a well running car.

Thank you sir. I do have a new question tho When the car is cold it idles higher due to the cts right then once it warms up the idle is supposed to drop into normal range (that's my understanding of it anyway) My motor doesn't do that it idles the same even after warm up it's not high but you can usually hear the change and I used to hear the change but I no longer do. Does this mean my cts is on it's way out? I don't run rich on idle either when warm.

There is a hose that goes into the side of the intake manifold, right behind the TB, on the side towards the valve cover. Try plugging that line off. If the idle goes down, the fast idle valve under the TB is stuck open. If it doesn't, you need to clean or replace the IACV assembly (the one in the middle of the plenum on the intake manifold)

Thank you I will try that

I think I have a tps problem as anything above 35% throttle feels like the car is is way out its rev range even tho it's only at like 4500rpm but if I stay at 35% it pulls as if I was at 80 percent it's weird. What do you guys think?

So I swapped fprs to a stock sr unit and all of my symptoms cleared up except one and thats the rich at idle I think the 255 fp is overrunning my fpr so when I get money I'll get a legit fpr...

Speaking of fuel pressure regulators.. Did you decide if you were going with the one Seishuku recommended? I'm having a hard time deciding on a fpr for my CA build, I originally wanted to go with the Nismo one mentioned in the FAQ, but am leaning more towards a fpr that I can place a gauge on. A buddy of mine suggested going with an aeromotive fpr, and the fpr that Seishuku suggested seems pretty legit, but I've always been a believer in the old saying 'you get what you pay for' and the $100 price difference has to bare some consequence to performance between the two. Or is it just paying for the name? What do you guys suggest?

I have not as funds have been low lately but when I get my funds situated I will either go with the one he said or the aeromotive. A member on here said the nismo units dont last said they work great when they work but they dont last.

boostonthebrain - the NISMO type A (or B) fuel preesure regulator is very nice. I bought a used one and its been working great for years. I Also bought Fuel pressure gauge I "T'ed" into the fuel feed line and have never had any problems. It keeps things tidy in the engine bay in my eyes. Factory mounted FPR and a simple gauge.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... Decisions, decisions! lol.. I definitely appreciate the feedback. I was very hesistant in spending $250 for a nismo one for it to last me like 6 months, only to have to repurchase. How much did you buy it used for?

I wouldn't ever bother with the nismo ones, they're just a modified OEM regulator... They don't flow very well, and as it's been said, don't last. WAY over priced for what you get too.

The CB one I linked to has a design similar to the Aeromotive A1000, and is also similar to some Fuelab ones.
I've had my CB AFPR apart when I got it, it's a very solid design... I have no issues and haven't had to readjust it since I installed it.

My only complaint is that it could hold a little more fuel after the pump is off (it bleeds down to about 20PSI, no biggie), but that could be fixed easy enough if I wanted to.

Do you have any information backing up your claim? My Nismo Type A is 4-5 years old when I purchased it as a used unit and still, I have no problems. Also you will always lose some pressure after the pump is off over time. The Nismo unit works great, so does the ISIS FPR.

All the Nissan regulators I've ever had, have had issues with the spring rusting to nothing or rusting to the point where it no longer holds consistent pressure. I've also had one with a diaphragm fail unexpectedly.


That's at least with OEM stock regulators, I've never had a NISMO one, but they use the same parts, only with a spring preloader added to the top hat. I'm not paying $200 for that crap, especially when I can get better for much less.

what about the SARD one my buddy has one that he's going to be selling me soon as I get my tax money....

You are comparing a brand new product to a product that was installed on a car 15-20 years ago and failed. That makes no sense. Things fail over time. Nothing is meant to last forever. And yes, new things can fail. I work at a Honda dealership in Michigan and we have had to replace parts on brand new 2014 cars that we just get in from American Honda that have never been driven before. Things happen, but just because it happens 20 times out of 1000 doesnt mean its junk.

SARD unit should work good as well. Its all about what works best for your setup and if you want a remote mounted fpr or one thats mounted in the stock location. whatever you choose Im sure you will be pleased.