The wideband has 2 outputs. Usually a 0-5v and a 0-1v. You'll have to read the manual to figure out which is which. The 0-1v is the one that you connect to the ECU. Simply run a wire over to the ECU from the wideband. Find the O2 sensor wire in the wiring loom coming out of the ECU, cut it 6-8" away from the plug, and connect the wire from the wideband to the wire going TO THE ECU. Leave the wire in the loom disconnected. If you're feeling froggy, you can remove the stock O2 sensor, and buy an O2 sensor plug, but there's no harm in leaving it in there to plug the hole either.

ahh ok I will look into that. Meanwhile I need to fix my exhaust leak at the back of the turbo still boosts fine but sounds like a can of smashed ***holes! Gotta find a bolt that will fit in the hole or a stud with nut. Really want a that Precision turbo I was talking about earlier in the thread.

Got the exhaust leak semi fixed turns out one of my wastegate bolts backed out and blew out the gasket so fixed that but I have another leak somewhere else its really annoying lol hopefully I can find it and fix it this weekend..

Blech, exhaust bolts are my least favorite kind of bolt, LOL. At least they're not all a zillion years old and just breaking off.

I had a hard time keeping a gasket on my wastegate too, I ended up just doing a precision flat surface grind/sanding on the manifold flange and the waste gate (for the wastegate, you'll have to remove the spring pressure and sand the valve seal and wastegate flange at the same time), then you can run with no gasket (or you can use a small smear of grease too to help seal).

I've actually done that on all my turbo flanges, all except for the head flange... otherwise I don't run any gaskets.

Yeah I just lost the gasket and bolted it back up so far so good.

I have a new problem. I think the diaphram in the fpr is starting to take a s*** on me my car is constantly rich now to the point that when I come to a stop she just dies as if it were flooded but she will fire right up and run but dies if I'm not driving I have to play a delicate game of break gas ebrake clutch ebrake in order to get her to stop without dying. this only happens when the car is warm. When cold I can drive her just fine with no issues idles fine and everything. If the fpr is fine the only other thing i can think of is the injectors are sticking open.

You guys have any idea what I should do?

Is that the one in the pic a few posts back?
If so, I'd chuck it in the trash... I had one like that too, never kept constant pressure, always over shot by 10PSI and if you adjust to correct it, it would end up 10PSI under.

Get one of these:
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDet ... tCode=7161

They're awesome.

Yeah it's that style like in the pic earlier in the thread. except that one was completely shot so I swapped it out and used the one I had on my bartco set up with the single cam. but I'm starting to think it's done. it's been sitting in the heat of all places for over 3 years.

The one you posted doesn't come with a gauge?

No, it doesn't come with one, but you should be able to transfer over one from the other FPRs... It has the port for a gauge, it's tapped for 1/8" NPT.

Ahh ok

Well I ordered an fpr should be here by friday hopefully. Gonna check for vac leaks as well as she is dumping fuel at idle my afrs are between 10-11.1 when idling.

Woot got the fpr in the mail will be installing it tomorrow hopefully this stops my rich at idle issue. Anybody where fuel cut is supposed to be? I get it a 5500rpm is that where it's supposed to be? I remember before the mods I could rev all the way to 6500 with ease at full throttle...

I'm too lazy to look back, what turbo are you running? Fuel cut is is based COMPLETELY on MAFS voltage (4.5v IIRC). The same psi on a bigger turbo flows more air (except before it spools). Combine this with the increase in air from from the revs and you'll hit fuel cut at a lower RPM.

I have an unknown t3/t4 60 trim that was rebuilt by a friend I have a 38mm wastegate on just wastegate it's at 5psi....

Hmm, not sure on that. It's gonna move more air than the factory T25, but I don't think it moves so much air at 5 psi that it would cause a fuel cut. How are you tuning? Do you have any way to monitor the MAFS voltage while the engine is running?

No I'm not tuning yet I have a wideband and an safc but the safc is f*** and doesnt read the air signal so I need to replace it. I hit what seems to be fuel cut at 55k in 5th gear I also hit it in fourth on occasion. I did notice if im not in it 100% in 4th I can avoid fuel cut I havent tried it in 5th yet. But the motor feels like it just shuts down butit doesnt cut off as soon as it happens I get out of it the revs go down and im back in business. Maybe its a maf issue I have a few both 18et and 18det the bad thing is they look identical so its possible im running one from a single cam. Would that cause my problem?

That sounds like fuel cut from the MAFS maxing out. Is the SAFC still hooked up? If so, remove it. It might be modifying the MAFS signal and making you hit fuel cut when you shouldn't be.

It is do I just unplug it, or do I have to remove the whole thing wiring and all?

IIRC, the SAFC taps into everything but the MAFS. The MAFS signal is intercepted. You would need to re-connect those wire back together and completely disconnect them from the SAFC. That is the only way to make sure the SAFC isn't altering the MAFS signal at all.

What if I might be running a single cam maf?

LOL, that would f*** everything up.

They do look the same though, don't they.

BTW, how's the FPR working for ya?

i didn't get the one you posted because i didn';t have the money I got the same ebay style one I have already and it didn't work lol I guess you get what you pay for I'll have to get the one you posted when I get some money.

I hear ya, it sucks having a tight budget... Life of an S12 owner. lol

You aint lying about that lol. Im starting to think I'm having an injector problem tho my afrs read backwards while idling it reads 10 -11 when im driving out of boost it reads 17 -18 and sometimes just - - - and while in boost it reads 12-13. Its the out of boost numbers that bother me because when I first got the car running it was never that lean while cruising and you can feel the difference as well. Where should I start looking. I really need to fix this as this is my daily right now and I dont need it breaking on me.

sounds like a leaking in the piping, post turbo, pre-TB .

Maybe a coupler? I'll check those asap...

What alt belt should I be using my belt just started squealing last week not a lot only on start up and once on a hard decel. I know its the original belt I've never changed it and the P.O. was to much of an idiot so I know he didn't change it when he got it either lol. I just need to know do I buy a ca18et one or the ca18de one?

I don't think it's either one. I'm pretty sure it's listed in the FAQ. The DE doesn't work because the alternator is on the wrong side, and the ET doesn't work because it's a "V" belt and not a multi-rib.

Ok thanks I'll check there...