My dat rebuild

1962-1965 Datsun L320 and NL320 forums - The truck that started it all in the US. All 320-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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I made up a little battery bracket which sits up under the front left side of the tray. The whole bracket unbolts to remove the battery ( She isn't going anywhere).


matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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I tried to fire the little beast up today and had no luck. The battery went flat while I was trying to find a spark. In the end I ripped the dizzy out and found she was bloody stuffed. In an attempt to beat sun down I didn't get any photos. However, all the internals are now working. It was a matter of strip, clean and assemble. I got the dizzy in as the sun was going down, I put the key in the ignition with a spark plug hanging out, gave the key a turn and hooray I have spark. Then the battery was completely dead. The battery is on charge now and hopefully tomorrow I will have a good outcome. Fingers crossed.:D

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Joe, this one will hopefully help. Sorry about the whole metric thing but I'm sure you'll work it out. Keep an eye on these threads for more detail on how to install these parts or dive in yourself. Have fun :D

kenbagby
Posts: 183
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Matti, after you've "warmed her up" let me know when you reach "08"!:)

Ohio L320
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Thanks for the measurements Matti,  That'll help.

I was messing around yesteday with some hand tools and sheet metal that I had laying around and surprisingly enough,  made a rocker patch that doesn't look too bad for just eye balling things.   The measurements will help a lot.

Thanks

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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It's alive!!! Sorry Joe, I haven't got into that sill yet. However after spending $50 I got the bugger running. New: Dizzy cap, rotor button, Leads, points and plugs. The J15 dizzy cap cost $12 which looks like a 120Y cap. The E1 type dizzy cap cost $50 so the J15 cap is used with 90degree leads for clearance. 120y spark plugs work a treat. She still has a little back fire and the carby needs dialing in, but at the moment I'm using a jar of fuel at a time so I'll have to get the fuel tank back in. Now that the bugger is going I'll look at making it stop. New brakes on their way! Woo Hoo!

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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joe, I had some time before dark today so I got into the sills.
This is the starting point. Weapons of choice.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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1. Cut the outer section of sill out.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Front part of the sill.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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the pic

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Rear part of the sill.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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2. Start removing the sill backing. I find it easier if this is removed in parts.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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You may have noticed the missing floor pan in the previous pic. Mine were shot so out they go!

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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3. This part on the inside of the cab holds three layers of steel together. You grind the welds off and then seperate the layers to be removed with the cold chisel. You may have to drill out thr spot welds if they don't let go easily.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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You can either grind the layers of steel away or drill the spot welds and use the cold chisel to seperate the layers. I use a combination of both depending on access and the finished look I want.Here is a pic of the removed section of sill. Surprise, surprise! There is a freakin rats nest in it! Again!!

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Here are the rest of the removed parts. I didn't get to fully remove all the parts yet. The only trick left is the three spot welds on the rear of the cab. This is where the sill backing section is bent at 90degrees and spot welded to the back of the cab.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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This is totally left of field. However, the mower on the left is a 1964 Victor and the other is a bitser. The victa cost me a total of $11 and the bitser a total of $15.  I plan on making the victa the same colour as the dato so I can take them both to motor shows.

Ohio L320
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Nice Job Matti,

Looks like you have more floor work than me.  Actually,  my sills / rockers are solid on top ( the part the bottom of the doors cover when closed.   It's basically the part that drops down below the door on the outside  and the backing plates that are rusted.     I'll have to get some pictures up to show you what I've done.  

Keep up the good work and by sharing the pictures of what you are doing, it will help a lot of others.

pelon52
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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I my name is Jose I login as pelon52 I'm very interesting in the original tray for my 62/320 if still abailable thanks live in logan near Brisbane mob0412286971 or [url=mailto:[email protected]][email protected][/url]

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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G'Day Jose. Good to see another aussie on board. Unfortunately it went to scrap. I didn't have the space to keep it. Let me know if you need any other parts. I may be able to help out.

Cheers

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Rear cab mount on the drivers side removed.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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The rear cab mount.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Cleaned up the brackets a little.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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These are the three spotwelds on the rear of the cab holding the sill backing plate.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Drilled holes for welding onto the sill backing plate.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Hacked into the drivers side lower windscreen.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Inner side of the drivers side lower windscreen.

pelon52
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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HI Matti you impress my self how handy you are with the grinder but more with the welder good job. I bough my 320 just the body all sand blasted and primer thats why I use a different engine and gear box all nissan stuff and the rust was not to bad just one sill and abit more in the lower parts of the guards but not much, that why I decide to take over the all task I put The ute on the road 5 years ago but I deregister the ute to rectified a small things and a respray after reparing the sill  I hope to pu it on the road soon again keep in touch Jose

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Thats almost as impressive as a pulse jet go kart.:D

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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I rebuilt this alternator at work the other night. Bearings have been re-greased, Stator and rotor cleaned, casing cleaned and bench tested. It came out of my old VC commodore and has a 14.3V regulator on the back of it.


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