according to the service manual all 94 have 240/248 cams but slightly diffrent specs...which coincides with tloofs findings in this articlehttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/169323

Now for all the cam specifications:1) ’91-’93 240SX (S13) - Note: '94 exh specs are slightly differentintake cam = 240 deg duration with a 1.6699�-1.6774� lobe height(intake opens 1 deg after TDC & closes 61 deg after BDC)exhaust cam = 248 deg duration with a 1.6699�-1.6931� lobe height(exhaust opens 64 deg before BDC & closes 4 deg after TDC)2) '94 240SX (S13) intake cam = 240 deg duration with a 1.6699�-1.6774� lobe height(intake opens 1 deg after TDC & closes 61 deg after BDC)exhaust cam = 248 deg duration with a 1.6699�-1.6931� lobe height(exhaust opens 60 deg before BDC & closes 8 deg after TDC)3) ’95-’98 240SX (S14)intake cam = 232 deg duration with a 1.6699�-1.6774� lobe height(intake opens 1 deg after TDC & closes 53 deg after BDC)exhaust cam = 232 deg duration with a 1.6699�-1.6774� lobe height(exhaust opens 48 deg before BDC & closes 4 deg after TDC)

struckinc wrote:according to the service manual all 94 have 240/248 cams but slightly diffrent specs...which coincides with tloofs findings in this articlehttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/169323

Then I guess that means that 240/248 cam's weren't just used for an SCV purpose.I'm going to check a few dates as to when the SCV's were used this will clear up alot of info for production model purposes.
Modified by Bigvinnie at 7:05 AM 6/27/2007

This whole thing confuses me.

From what it looks like, I want to run a 248/232 setup. Now here is my problem, I have no clue how to go about and install these and set them up correctly.

Before you tell me it has been said, I know. Something isn't clicking for me and leaves me confused. Sorry, but I am hopeless.

Another thing, how much would the cams cost me(rough estimate)if I bought them off here used?

now since i used the altima 248 for my intake, i used the adjustable gear to advance my intake cam 4 deg. it killed power across the board..i am now thinking about what i did and i think since i left the 232 exhaust cam alone, i eliminated all overlap, correct? now to leave the intake advanced i would have to advance the exhaust also to regain my overlap. i think that is right. now my other question is how much overlap is good? i think stock is what like 2.5 deg or something. do we need more or less overlap? obviously no overlap is bad at least for my setup
Modified by struckinc at 1:15 PM 7/25/2007

DeXteR wrote:well, i did the 248/232 swap last night. wow, that's really easy! most of my wrench time is spent on 4g63's from the DSMs. swapping cams on a 4g63 is a nightmare compared to the ka24de.

i'll link to some pictures when i get them up.

this thread was very helpful and informative. i'm looking forward to hearing and feeling the results... especially with the top down.

oh yeah, the only distinguishing markings on the cams that i could see were numbers... i'll have to go back and look because i don't recall. besides than the paint stripes and "53f", there was a single digit on the cams (3, 4, 2 that i recall) that might help distinguish what cams are what. i'll share this info once i confirm it.

How do you like the 248/232 cam swap? I'm trying to decide between that and the 240/232(thanks to Bigvinnie for the idea) I just wanna see what works best.

ok i have been doing a little bit of thinking(which may not be a good thing) about my cam combination 248(+5)232.from what i figure using a 248 deg cam on the intake over a 240 would increase overlap by 4deg. but by using a 232 cam on the exhaust over a 248 would decrease total overlap by 4 deg. from stock{ +4+(-8)}. i think someone said stock overlap is 2.5 deg so with this combination it would end up with a total overlap of -1.5 deg. how would negative overlap be good? and then by advancing the intake cam you would be giving even less overlap. correct? so to correct this we also would need to advance the exhaust by the intake advance amount PLUS the negative total overlap. am i correct in my figures or is it just to early and i really confused?

So, what would be a good fix for my 91 SE for the best overall setup? The car won't be a daily driver, just used for fun and for a drift series...

since it already comes with the 240/248...u can use 2 exhaust cams...248/248 or upgrade to aftermarket cams..

93HATCH240 wrote:How do you like the 248/232 cam swap? I'm trying to decide between that and the 240/232(thanks to Bigvinnie for the idea) I just wanna see what works best.

I am wondering this too. I thought the 248/232 was the way to go for NA and turbo (not counting aftermarket cams), but the turbo guys seem to favor the stock 91-93 240/248 setup.

I am swaying toward 248/232...I have a 98 SE/manual. Looking for good all around power, not just winding it to redline everytime.

With my stock setup the midrange/upper rpms suck. Try to stuff it hot into a corner and there is no power.

My biggest concern is the differences the single chain cam gives. I would like to try the Altima 248 int's to get the advance close to stock.

Anyone have any input on what timing they are running with the setups?

The cams you want to use should also be determined by the bolt on's that you use. People tell me that 4-1 headers work better with a 232 on ex, while a 240 or 248 cam on EX works better with a 4-2-1 header. Differences with scavaging, fuel and ignition corrections.You can't always assume that one cam combo is better than another that is why it's all about tuning to the specifics of the engine.

My plan is to use something until I go turbo...I will probably not add a header unless one pops up for a steal somehow. I do plan going 3" exhaust, electric fans....possibly the misc stuff over the next few months. I have an Injen intake, accel 300 wires as really the only engine type mods so far.

I have to catch back up a bit since I just bought a house .

wow, sorry i never checked this thread much after doing my swap.

my buddy ran 248/248 in his widebody and it sucked until higher in the rpm range.

it's been a long time since i drove with 240/248, so i don't really remember what it was like and it was with the slushbox. i need to take a ride in a friend's stock ka with manual to compare.

my butt dyno says that i have good midrange power without a lot of sacrifice in the lower end. i haven't taken the 215k ka over 5k rpm so i don't know how it feels in the top-end. i've also got i/h/e and some other easy bolt-on's. my car is also running really rich, which might be due to s14 maf or a bad o2 sensor or something else... i did too many things at once to give good input. sorry.

Looking to use a 92-95 Altima 248 ext cam as the intake in my 98 SE. Other than having to push the plug into the cam are there any issues with using this cam on a 98? Also with the distributor gear on it, will this cause problems with the 98?

Thanks

Å

i have this cam in mine. cut the ears off for the dist.,push the oil plug in, rotate 4 teeth and install...it is only like .5 deg away from being a stock 248 deg. intake cam

struckinc wrote:i have this cam in mine. cut the ears off for the dist.,push the oil plug in, rotahttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zeropost?cmd=reply&id=2933587&quote=1#zer...=1#te 4 teeth and install...it is only like .5 deg away from being a stock 248 deg. intake cam

You have a 98 also?

This is an interesting link I found: http://kcda-online.com/modules...4cf85

no i have a 93 but it is the same..the only difference is that you have a single row chain and we have a dual row..you have to reuse your cam gear

struckinc wrote:no i have a 93 but it is the same..the only difference is that you have a single row chain and we have a dual row..you have to reuse your cam gear

It's not the same, the cam has to be advanced differently, the oil plug has to be inserted deeper due to a difference in journals.

I am not sure if 8 teeth CCW is going to put me at the right timing, nor if I can push the oil plug in deep enough with the dist. gears.

i didnt have to push in my oil plug..you only have to push it in far enough so that it stops the oil before the last journal, which your head doesnt have. you do have to cut off the notches for the dist because it just barely touches the half moon gasket at the back of the valve cover.

i was wrong about the timing. i forgot that the 98's moved the pin back to 12o'clock, so yeah you should move your gear 8 teeth ccw. if i remember correct the pin on the altima cam should be about 7:30 when you are done. it is late and i dont remember too clearly

Okay, after reading this thread for two days I have a couple of questions.I have a 93 240 with the ka24de and a manual tranny. I live in cali and have to keep all the smog crap on. I did get and exhaust (still have the cat) and short air intake. Nothing else in the engine area has been done.I think the 248/232 would be best for me. Questions are.1. will the car still pass smog?2. do you think that with all the smog crap, a swap like this will get me any noticeable gains?

Love this thread, been thinking of doing a cam swap for awhile, but never really researched it 'til now.

I have a S14 motor in my S13, and my power band sucks compared to what the S13 cams did. With my old S13 motor just sitting at my shop, it's just begging to do a cam swap.

Looking to keep the 232 in the exhaust, and pull my S13 exhaust (248) out and put it in the intake side of the S14 motor, using the 4th tooth method. And then later do the DIY cam gear(s).

My question is this, what would you suggest for ignition timing based on a distirbutor adjustments?

Right now w/ timing at 18-19, all emissions removed/plugged, etc, plus i/h/e/pulley/370s/S-AFC set to ~13:1 A/F w/ the 232/232s I made 155whp/153wtq.

Going to be doing the swap in this weekend or within the next week, resetting timing based on what you guys suggest, re-tuning w/ wide-band and dyno'ing again.

Thanks,

Jay

What I do not understand is if every tooth rotation of the cam sprocket = 18.95 deg, then why is it that a redrilled cam gear only shows around 2.5 deg. difference with each hole, when each hole has around 1.5 teeth difference. Please explain this.

Because the teeth(ONLY) are 360* in rotation only for cam gear, it is a radius. Although valve lift is only open during 1/4 of that duration time of he crank shafts 360* rotation. So when you make a cam gear it is calculated from the crank shafts rotation, not the actual cam gear.
Modified by Bigvinnie at 7:22 AM 11/17/2007

Bigvinnie wrote:Because the teeth(ONLY) are 360* in rotation only for cam gear, it is a radius. Although valve lift is only open during 1/4 of that duration time of he crank shafts 360* rotation. So when you make a cam gear it is calculated from the crank shafts rotation, not the actual cam gear.

Modified by Bigvinnie at 7:22 AM 11/17/2007

hehe...smoke is probably coming out of some's ears out there

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O...cycle animated gif. Notice the cams as they spin vs crankshaft.

Alright, I'm really new to this, and I have read a lot of the information here but still confused on this. I have an 95 s14 automatic and I just wasn't sure which would be a better choice for me in my setup as opposed to the s13's tested. I know the s13's have more aggressive cams, but the s14's have better MAF, etc. I was thinking either to swap in the s13 cams stock 240/248 or going with the 240/232 combo. It's all come down to these 2. From everything I've read on here, everyone was saying 240/232 is the better way to go for the autos. I know either has to have a much better power band than the 232/232 setup. Well, sorry for the questions, but I appreciate any info you could give me! Just want to go with the best to gain better mid range to top end. Thanks!!

I have a 91 KA. I recently bought 2 of 232 cams. I plan to do the swap this Wednesday. So i would like to get all the facts straight.

When i put in 248exh on the intake side I rotate the cam sproket 4 teeth CCW, now, will this rotate the cam also? Will it line up with the mark on the link that i made before disassembly? Or do i only rotate the sprocket?

The 232exh from a S14 will not need any adjustment? I just line it up with the marking i make before disassembly? (link and sproket)

Thank you!

Nisxsz wrote:I have a 91 KA. I recently bought 2 of 232 cams. I plan to do the swap this Wednesday. So i would like to get all the facts straight.

When i put in 248exh on the intake side I rotate the cam sproket 4 teeth CCW, now, will this rotate the cam also? Will it line up with the mark on the link that i made before disassembly? Or do i only rotate the sprocket?

The 232exh from a S14 will not need any adjustment? I just line it up with the marking i make before disassembly? (link and sproket)

Thank you!

I would seriously read more...it should be clear what you do. When you rotate the cam gear you aren't turning the cam. The cam gets installed so the lobes are facing the way they did originally

iitywygms, i'm going to try to answer your question regarding the angular differences between the 4-tooth method for doing an exhaust cam swap to the intake side and using the jwt drilled cam gear.

here's the tech article for drilling your own jwt cam gear: zerothread?id=199832

ok, let's draw up (either with compass & protractor or autocad or whatever) a model of the cam gear. since we're only concerned about angular dimensions, diameters are unimportant.

draw a circle. this is 360* of angular rotation.

there are 19 teeth on the gear, equally spaced. the angle between each tooth is approximately 18.95* (360/19 = 18.947368...) so draw a line from the center of the circle to the edge of the circle, measuer ~18.95* and draw another line, repeat until you've come around to the first line you drew. you should have a sprocket with 19 "teeth" now.

here's what it will look like (NOT TO SCALE!):

there are 9 holes on the JWT template. let's assume that they're equally spaced (which they aren't, you'll understand in a minute). so based on our assumption the angular spacing between the holes is about 40* (360/9 = 40). now, take one of the lines that you all ready have for your cam gear teeth, measure 40 degrees from here and draw another line, measure 40 from that line and draw another and repeat until you're back where you started.

here's what it should look like (NOT TO SCALE!):

now, if you start measuring the angular differernce between the cam teeth and the center line of the holes, you'll start to see the differences are about 2.1*, 4.2*, 6.3*, 8.4", and 10.5* on each side starting from the overlap starting line. this is what creates the advanced and retarded cam timing.

here's kind of what it will look like. note that i adjusted the angles between the holes and the teeth in order to get the nice advances and retards advertised on the jwt cam gear and again, NOT TO SCALE!

what you need to keep in mind when you use the jwt (or homemade) cam gear, is that it has nothing to do with the orientation of the original pin-hole for the cam gear. the degree of adnvance or retard is based on the relative position to the closest tooth on the gear, not it's distance from the original pin-hole.

so if you're doing a hot cam swap and you use the 4-tooth method,

DjPantsSpecR from page 1 wrote:the moral of the story is: 248 on the intake side is retarded 1.7 degrees. with a homebrew-redrill cam gear, or i guess a real live JWT gear, you can advance this by 2.5 degrees for a total of .8 degrees advance.

this looks to be much more acceptable, and would put a factory cam .8 degrees away from the nismo 248 intake cam, for much cheaper.

hopefully this answers your question or helps you understand it a little better.

Modified by DeXteR at 9:06 AM 11/20/2007
Modified by DeXteR at 9:07 AM 11/20/2007

DeXteRThank you so much!!!!!!! I was goin nuts. It is clear now, I can sleep!!!!!!!!!!!!!

+1

just remember while this drawing is a great way to see the angles, the best way to do the gear other than buying one from JWT or drilling one from a JWT gear is to use the scale template they have online.