wannabe_drifter wrote:How can I know what year is my motor from ?!?!I bought the car and the guy told me the engine had been changed but I got no clue from what year it is ...

2 ways to check.The top of the valve cover if it has 3 bolts along the top between the spark plugs it would be a 91-93 engine.Top valve cover on the 95-98 has 2 bolts between the spark plugs.To determine a 91 or 92 engine, it follows as I just said 3 bolts along the top, then there will be 2 additional solenoids on the back of teh headalong the firewall. 1 is for vacuum system, and the second on is for the scv's.

so... when i pull the valve cover on my 93 vert (3-bolts in valve cover and SCV), how can i check to see what cams i have? is there a way to easily identify the cams without taking them outf?

i'm going to pull my valve cover and take a look because i'm really curious about this now.

DeXteR wrote:so... when i pull the valve cover on my 93 vert (3-bolts in valve cover and SCV), how can i check to see what cams i have? is there a way to easily identify the cams without taking them outf?

i'm going to pull my valve cover and take a look because i'm really curious about this now.

How do you have SCV's? what is the production date of your vert? Yes you should have 3 bolts along the valve cover, but you shouldn't have SCV's, if it has a 93 production date. Check for the solenoid when you remove the valve cover it would be easier.

Fu*K and I know the answer to your cam question without measuring the cams I just forgot the color coordination.I'm not sure if red/orange is used on INT of 91 and 92 models, or if it is green that labels the 91 and 92 models???? I would have to pull the valve cover and I'm not doing that anytime soon...

EDIT: I know this 240 should be green, and 248 should be orange/red.This means a 91 and 92 engine use a green on INT and a orange red on EX...

On 95-98's it si swapped where orange red is INT and green is EX I believe...So I'm assuming if a 93 uses a 95-98 cam combo it would be red/orange INT and green EX....
Modified by Bigvinnie at 11:10 AM 6/20/2007

production date... i'll have to look. vin is: jn3ms37a8pw204607

let me make sure i get this: scv is the secondary butterfly valves in the intake manifold runners before the head, correct? if so, yes, this engine has those with the two solenoids at the back of the engine on that ridiculous vaccum manifold.

i've allready got my valvecover pulled off of my extra s14 engine i have laying in the shop. i'll pull the s13 v/c and compare and look and try to figure it all out and let you know.

Well if you have SCV's you have a 240/248 cam combo......I would confirm the production date and make sure its a 92 production date sold in 93. As 93 productions were sold in 94.....

DeXteR wrote:production date... i'll have to look. vin is: jn3ms37a8pw204607

jn3=Japan Convertiblem=KA24des3=240sxactually a 2 not a 7=2door coupea=convertible8=digit confirmationp=93 productionw=Kyusha Japan production plant204607= number that came off the assembly line

This is defenitely a wierd scenario. I have a 93 manifold with no SCV's in it....

roger that.

all that talk about the bastard "tweener" 93-95 ka's has me a bit foggy on what to expect in my head. like i said, i'll tear into them and take a look and figure it out. thanks for the help.

Bigvinnie wrote:This is defenitely a wierd scenario. I have a 93 manifold with no SCV's in it....

that's why i was hoping there'd be some sort of identification other than paint on the cams... you mentioned some stuff about the "tweeners" having 240/232 or 232/232 combos... so i don't know.

i'll try to figure it out. either way, i'd like to try running an s14 intake and non-scv manifold into the 248/232 combo and out a header and 3" cat-back on my vert and see how it goes... if i wasn't opening up the airflow so much, i'd do the 240/232, but i hope i'll flow enough air to make this work well. i'm only going to be running it for the rest of the summer so i'm not going to bother re-swapping. this winter i'll probably have my teamate burn me a rom tune to get the most out of the setup.

again, thanks for the help.

DeXteR wrote:roger that.

all that talk about the bastard "tweener" 93-95 ka's has me a bit foggy on what to expect in my head. like i said, i'll tear into them and take a look and figure it out. thanks for the help.

Here is a manifold that I pulled off of a 93 production, no scv's, and the OBD1 TB/TPS.

My friend James has a 93 production coupe with no scv's as well, I'm going to check to see what factory it was produced in.. If this is infact the case there was a mid year swap on production parts some where in 93 not 92..
Modified by Bigvinnie at 7:28 PM 6/20/2007

here's mine. sorry i don't have a more up-close view with the tb/tps in view, but you can see the valves and the regulator.it could very well be a vert thing as well... my 2nd vert is also a 93 and it had the s14 motor in it, but when i bought it from the kid, he gave me the intake manifold from the original engine and it has the butterfly vavles in it too...

DeXteR wrote:it could very well be a vert thing as well... my 2nd vert is also a 93 and it had the s14 motor in it, but when i bought it from the kid, he gave me the intake manifold from the original engine and it has the butterfly vavles in it too...

You could be right probably why the FSM isn't clear on cam specs after 92 models...

bigvinnie: actually the p doesnt designate production year it is the model year...car may have been built in 92 but the model year is 93

struckinc wrote:bigvinnie: actually the p doesnt designate production year it is the model year...car may have been built in 92 but the model year is 93

To find the closest date look at the sticker in the door panel driver side.The first thing you will see is the production date. Mine is a 91, made in NOV of 1990.

Bigvinnie wrote:
To find the closest date look at the sticker in the door panel driver side.The first thing you will see is the production date. Mine is a 91, made in NOV of 1990.

yeah that is the easiest way to find prod date.you cant read that from the vin and nissan doesnt hold vins that old in their system..we have 08 titans on our lot that have production dates of 02-07

hmmmm talking bout this. rite now im running a 248(2.5 adv)/232 wit adj gears n all. I would to let ya knoe dat tomorrow i would be trying the 232/248 setup and also a 232/240 setup but just wondering does anyone knoes if i should advance it or retard it? Oh did i ever thank u dj for ur write up on adj cam gears?

hmmm well ive done the math, and im reasonably satisfied. using the 4 teeth method the cam is only off .01 degree. nothing at all.

75.8/18.94 = 4.0005555555.000555555555 is equivalent to .01 of a degree.

SO assuming the 248 has the same centerline as the 240, with an additional 4 degrees of duration on either side, a 248 rotated 4 teeth to work ont eh intake side has an intake opening event at 5 degrees after TDC. (or -5 degrees btdc, why are cams always described liek this?)

so the 2.5 degree advance puts the cam closer to its stock opening event at 2.5 ATDC.

SO, a 240 rotated 4 teeth clockwise to work as an exhaust cam would have an exhast closing event at (and im literally doing the math in my head right now) i BELIEVE 1 degree ATDC. it would technicallly sit at its stock position. Now you're gonna have to let me think about this, but i wouldnt run the 240 as an exhaust with any less than 5 degrees of RETARD. i would actually try the 7.5 degrees of retard myself. i ahve no idea what to expect.

so you would be sitting at intake opening at 1 degree ATDC and the exhaust would be sitting at about 6 degrees ATDC with (-5)

i think you did thank me, but you can thank me more with cash.

Now, someone get a pair of 248s, run the intake cam stock and retard the exhasut side 5 degrees. Events should be, intake opening at 5 degrees ATDC, and exhaust closing at 13 degrees ATDC. this is as close as i can get to the brian crower V2s (they are 4 and 12)

well boost is looking so far away.........

thinking about trying out a 5* retard(ext), on stock configuration s13, but I do need to finish up the hybrid ecu thing though first, need to mess with my dizzy and go over the timing,as well as get a few gtech pulls in to see just whats what for a baseline. looking around 130ish freehp( after wind drag tire:ground resistance... blah)

Granted I'll be at an advantage being able to monitor afr(wideband) and have some input as to what timing curve looks like.....

oh yeah dj so long as the gear I already drilled works I'll give you the one I take off. (dont hold me to a time frame though I NEED to get my ac finished up first, kinda)

Modified by neverlift at 4:41 AM 6/22/2007
Modified by neverlift at 4:46 AM 6/22/2007

well, i did the 248/232 swap last night. wow, that's really easy! most of my wrench time is spent on 4g63's from the DSMs. swapping cams on a 4g63 is a nightmare compared to the ka24de.

i'll link to some pictures when i get them up.

this thread was very helpful and informative. i'm looking forward to hearing and feeling the results... especially with the top down.

oh yeah, the only distinguishing markings on the cams that i could see were numbers... i'll have to go back and look because i don't recall. besides than the paint stripes and "53f", there was a single digit on the cams (3, 4, 2 that i recall) that might help distinguish what cams are what. i'll share this info once i confirm it.

DeXteR wrote:well, i did the 248/232 swap last night. wow, that's really easy! most of my wrench time is spent on 4g63's from the DSMs. swapping cams on a 4g63 is a nightmare compared to the ka24de.

i'll link to some pictures when i get them up.

this thread was very helpful and informative. i'm looking forward to hearing and feeling the results... especially with the top down.

oh yeah, the only distinguishing markings on the cams that i could see were numbers... i'll have to go back and look because i don't recall. besides than the paint stripes and "53f", there was a single digit on the cams (3, 4, 2 that i recall) that might help distinguish what cams are what. i'll share this info once i confirm it.

Whats the date of production on your door panel sticker???
Modified by Bigvinnie at 2:26 PM 6/22/2007

i knew i forgot something...

i'll try to remember to check tonight and post the result when i can.

here's some pictures:i started by removing the 232e from the s14. i didn't pay a whole lot of attention to the timing marks as this engine is getting tore down this winter anyway.notice green exhaust, intake was orange/red.

then i pulled the valve cover on the s13 ka and marked the timing positions:

here's the cam colors before i removed everything:

i proceeded to remove the 248 cam and set it aside, then install the 232 cam and align it. with that in place, i removed the 240 cam and installed the 248 cam. rotated the cam and sprocket 4 teeth counter-clockwise.

here's a picture of me buttoning up the job:

all done!again, notice the color combination now. just for a reference.

easy.
Modified by DeXteR at 1:58 PM 6/22/2007

pretty cool pic u got. if i had some money i would surely send u some dj but rite now im actually saving up 4 ur intake mani or just plannin on learning how to port n polish my intak doesnt matter i think i need to learn lol seems hard but practice makes perfect 4 me. anywho how is da intake thing coming along?

hey just wanna let u guys know dat i just retard da intake 2.5 degree its a 248 so i think i should b at 3.3 retard if im correct. n stock settings on da exhaust. the car idles better and pulls alot harder from take off. tires squeal longer i say around 1 sec or so n squeals everytime i take off from first. Pulls alot better then advancing it 2.5 degrees. so I guess vannie was correct bout it being retard instead of advaning da gears!!

advancing it 2.5 degrees jsut brings the intake opening event back to stock.

there is no doubt that retarding it is going to make better power, but at the cost of high EGTs. I personally was using 2.5 degrees of retard on the intake side and 5 on the exhaust.

but i also have no regard for my motor

DjPantsSpecR wrote:there is no doubt that retarding it is going to make better power, but at the cost of high EGTs. I personally was using 2.5 degrees of retard on the intake side and 5 on the exhaust.

The cam retard at -2.5INT should show power across the board. As far as raising the EGT that would deal more with the adjustments in the distributor/ignition timing.Retarding the cam should in fact super charge the intake velocity causing for a much better mixture in the A/Fr's. A -2.5 degree shouldn't raise the egt to much, and it should increase the lowend power that people say they lose with the 248 cam.There is this nifty wide band that one of my forum members at club 240.com found. We did a little research and thought that it would be better than a AEM/UEGO, andLM1 combination. It seems to have a few of the features of the LM1 and half the cost of the AEM UEGO....http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htmBut to get to the point when people are adjusting cams they should use a wide band since there are varying A/Fr's adjusting the combinations. Personally a -2.5 retard should be safe in the A/Fr, it's when the ignition timing is advanced is when you will need an SAFC and wide band.Personally I haven't changed my cam settings, and I run my timing higher than 31 BTDC, I dumped enough fuel to make sure that I wouldn't raise my EGT, my HC shoot through the chart though and I need to readjust settings when I go in for smog.
Modified by Bigvinnie at 11:16 AM 6/26/2007

now i am confused..why have we been advancing intake timing if retarding it gives that kind of result? isnt there some kind of formula or something that we can use to calculate what the best combination and adjustment should be for a given application instead of just trying different combinations?

struckinc wrote:now i am confused..why have we been advancing intake timing if retarding it gives that kind of result? isnt there some kind of formula or something that we can use to calculate what the best combination and adjustment should be for a given application instead of just trying different combinations?

Personally I never said anything about advancing cams. Infact I have been doing cam combinations with the 240/248, 248/240,240/240, and 248/248. Guess what they are all retarded combinations and they all use the same OVERLAP.Using soem basic math to get the proper overlap these are the combinations that you should come up with the cams I just described.

3 sets of combinations. Only the -2.5 retard on to INT doesn't need changes to the A/Fr's as long as ignition timing goes unchanged. Any other combination does with an ECU tune, or SAFC, thay also make alot more power with advanced timing above 30BTDC. Pay attention to overlap there all pretty close to consistent.-5INT,-2.5EX-7INT,-5EX-2.5INT,0

EDIT Now there are cases where the durations are smaller than the 240 such as the 232's and some people have claimed that advancing the exhaust cam increases power of the 232 combination cams. I personally have never tried this method. Bringing in the exhaust 232, I guess makes a better overlap, and increases exhaust pulse and scavaging using the smaller 232.
Modified by Bigvinnie at 8:42 AM 6/26/2007

htats interesting, so ill get dat later but now im moving so it hav to wait. But since i hav an obd2 do i need 2 widebands o2 sensor or i need one?

d3vilskid wrote:htats interesting, so ill get dat later but now im moving so it hav to wait. But since i hav an obd2 do i need 2 widebands o2 sensor or i need one?

You will need one wideband O2 sensor. I believe the unit that I showed can run off the existing inline to the narrowband line.You would still need to use the second sensor after the CAT.
Modified by Bigvinnie at 11:17 AM 6/26/2007

damn it vinnie where the hell was this when I bought my plx

still havent got to this dj my bad, hopefully this weekend, hey grab a stanza ecu ,zif and chip, almost have the dohc on sohc all worked out, I think. Gonna try ec4 tonight I hope.

for those curious about my vert's d.o.p.

it's 6/93.

my vin number was correct, by the way. it is 7 and not 2... i'd love to link a picture... but photobucket isn't cooperating.


Modified by DeXteR at 4:19 PM 6/26/2007

DeXteR wrote:for those curious about my vert's d.o.p.

it's 6/93.

my vin number was correct, by the way. it is 7 and not 2... i'd love to link a picture... but photobucket isn't cooperating.

I'm starting to assume that 232/232 wasn't applied to production until late august/sept 1993, which would be the last of 94 verts only, and the beginning production of the 94 production s14