motor gets hot way quick/ MAF problem

[silent_elite]

90 s13 swapped out to 95ka24de. just got her running and she idels at like 1k after i adjusted the TPS but wont rev higher than 2700k and backfires a bit when driving. any ways the motor is getting hot way to quick, like after being on for a minute and half the stock headers get super hot and smoke comes off of them (no oil spilled on them). i look at the temp gauge and it dosent move. car has plenty of oil and coolant. rlly need to get this fixed so i dont overheat so i can work on my idle/revs issue...

anyhelp is great
thanks

[biggie]

Fix the temp gauge (new sensor probably or make sure its hooked up). And make sure to burp the coolant system very well.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Defiantly fix the gauge and bleed the coolant, but if the header is getting really hot it could be a clogged cat.

coolant temp sensors are about 10-15 bucks

Coolant bleeding

Jack the front of the car up
Take off radiator cap
Take a 2 liter pepsi bottle cut it in half and use some black electrical tape and wrap the bottle neck a little, or get a cooling funnel
Flip it around and place the bottle neck were the radiator cap was at. Pinch off over flow line if not using the funnel.
Now start filling it with coolant about half way
Remove bleeder screw
Close bleed screw after you get a nice even stream of coolant
Squeeze the upper, and lower lined and burp out the air
Add antifreeze until you over fill the rad by a quart
Turn the heat on full blast
Start the engine and let the engine run after 3-10 minutes the thermostat will open and suck in the excess antifreeze (ambient temp affects time)
Fill it again but with about a half of quart.
Let it run until no more bubbles come out. Squeeze hosed time to time.
Replace cap, unclamp overflow hose and then shut off the engine, fill over flow 1/2 to 3/4

Coolant funnel (best to have)

[silent_elite]

ill go head and make sure i have a good connection on the temp wire from the harness leading to the cluster and s*** (car has sohc to dohc swap) i also bought a new thermo ima go head and put in tmrw and burp my coolant system and ill rent the radiator test pump and check all that. car has no cats, 3inch all the way with test pipe but stock headers and downpipe.

is my car really getting to hot too quick or whatt, i hear the ka's like to get hot but this is my first one

[NicUzumaki]

hey if it maxes out at about 2500+ it sounds like its in limp mode meaning your maf is bad.
get this though, when u do the sohc to dohc the mafs are completely different

sohc 1.7-3.0 volts
dohc 1.3-1.7 volts

or there about dont quote me

it will make you run super rich
i bout a dohc maf on ebay for 30$ all said and done, and inspected a friends car s14
the maf wire may have four pins but only 3 wires just like the sohc
so you can grab ur dremel and cut off the outer case it will then plug into yours
u just have to try the multiple ways till it runs right

or do some cutting and solder
its alll good



as for the overtemp the dohc are notorious for it do as OutToWinPAHC
has said but also put a funnel in it when uve think uve finished bleeding, fill the funnel up and walk away for an hour or so, you will be amazed when u return, your funnel will be more than likely empty, another trick ive done is kept a 10ml socket drive in the car and when it over temps because it hit an air bubble (heat will spike but ur heater wont blow hot) i pull over and carefully open up the bleeder and let all the air out, close it up and drive ur temp will normalize and ur good to go until u hit more air

best of luck


ps if ur tach doesnt work i know how to wire it up with the dohc swap

[silent_elite]

fixed the temp prob, car warms up in about 3 mins and tem gauge goes toa bout the middel and is fine.

as for the maf i just put on my cold air intake today and mounted the maf to it. turn on the car and it sporadically revs to like 1300 then dies in 2 secs. with it unplugged car idels fine at 1000rpm but still wont rev past 2700. i plug the maf back in connected to the filter but of the intake piping and car idels at 1000rpm but still wont rev up. car does smell like its running rich, pretty gassy smell from the exhaust

[NicUzumaki]

i would really check your maf sensor
that sounds exactly like "limp mode"
you can grab your part number off it,
then go www.rockauto.com and look at what u have and what ur supposed to have
kinda cool, gives u a rough pricing outline as well

just sounds like they never changed it after the swap, or someone went to replace it but bought the wrong one
best of luck

[silent_elite]

btw the maf harnness connector has 4 pins but only 3 have like a metal coating thing and the maf it self has 4 pins. how do i know what style maf im running (sohc or dohc) and how do i test it with the voltmeter

[silent_elite]

So what am I doing exactly with the s14 maf cause I went out and got it today but the the harness connectors won't hook up. Am I his gonna dreamer off the inside connector of the harness so it fits, is there any wiring I need to do?

[NicUzumaki]

cut the outer shell off of the 4 pin connector that way it can plug into the maf,
but there is multiple ways it can go in, so u just got to try the different ways and drive it until
your are able to rev higher than 2500

[OutToWinPAHC]

IIRC there is a pin that is not used, but it should be keyed.

[NicUzumaki]

the extra pin is in place to stop people from swapping the dohc and sohc because there is a 300$ price difference,
well at least thats how it is for me and my local retailers

[silent_elite]

ok so i got the MAF hooked up and i went for a drive and the car revs but jerks in first a bit around 2500rpm then goes up and down real fast but if i give it some gas it gets out of that. did some reading and some ppl said its the tps. went out and got a new one, took off the throttel body a lil bit to slide in the new one bolted it all down and set it at .46ohm. go to start the car and rpms jump to 1200 then the car slowly dies down. is there something wrong im doing... rlly wish i cld just drive this car already. first time nissan kid

[scooz14]

is your timing set correctly? are you still having glowing headers?

[silent_elite]

Fixed the heating problem and the headers never rlly got that hot. Just need to figure out this tps problem so I can finially drive my car for more than 5mins without it jerking

[OutToWinPAHC]

Time it, and check your 02 sensor.

[NicUzumaki]

i had the same problem after my swap,
timed it and all new tps new maf
but i ended up running a can of sea foam thru the gas and some down the throttle body
to my surprise it really evened out the revs

but after u set ur tps u have to un plug it for 10 seconds and re plug it back in
it also takes up to 5 drive cycles for the ecu to retune itself

when ur checking everything check to make sure the throttle cable is hooked up right, take the tension off of it
and see where your revs are at, might be that simple
your idle adjustment screw is to the left of where the heater hoses come out of the block,
just another thing to adjust after you got ur tps set

also if it is revving high and acting weird you may have a bad injector,
u can start the car, turn it off, unplug all 4 injectors and try to start it again, if it runs for more then 5 seconds u have leaky injectors

best of luck

[NicUzumaki]

was just re reading what u wrote,
it should run at 1200 rpm cold and between 7-800 rpm once hot
u may have the timing right,
could just be dirty or clogged, or that the gas is old and varnished a little,