more trouble

[daniel577h]

ok, so i got my car to start finaly, it ran good i let it warm up and reved it a little workd fine. then i shut it off and i tried to start it again and wouldnt turn on no matter what i did. any ideas of what could have happened?

thanksdanny

[float_6969]

Please describe, "wouldn't turn on" with a little more detail. Does that mean it wouldn't turn over, or it wouldn't start and run?

[pulsar gtr]

You might have an intermittent ignitor, I have seen some when they are cold they work, when they get a bit hot they just die.

But as Ryan said, give us more details, does the engine crank? if it does, check for spark, do ecu diagnostics

RafiPULSAR GTR

[daniel577h]

it cranks fine just wont start, i get code 12 for MAF but the wiring is ok, not much resistance in any of them.

[pulsar gtr]

Do you have a spark?

PULSAR GTRRafi

[daniel577h]

yes, i got spark and fuel and compression, i turns over, sounds like its gonna turn on, but it doesnt.

[777aaron]

Well if you have all of that and the timing is correct,assuming you hav'nt moved it,it should start.A weak or orange spark will keep an engine from running,this could be caused by a weak ground or bad plug wires or any other number of things but those are the most common.You should have a blue or whitish spark,hope this helps.

[float_6969]

I would resolve the code 12 MAFS issure first. If you've put on a new timing belt, I would re-install the belt too.

[pulsar gtr]

Try and disconnect your maf and see if it starts, usually the car will start but won't rev over 2k rpm.

Did you ever replace your timing belt? If you are getting a spark, fuel, regardless if the maf is hooked or not, it should start.

Couple things to check, is your resistor pack, also check if the spark plugs are wet which is a good sign that the injectors are firing.

But a good possiblity is your timing belt might skipped few teeth which will give you a spark but at the wrong time..

Also, have you installed any electronic devices that you might have hooked it up to the engine harness, if you did, disconnect them and see if that make a difference.

Good luck,PULSAR GTRRafi

[daniel577h]

i still dont have it runnin, i rewired the maf, new maf and still get MAF code, i have no idea whats going on, i think it might be the harness that is messed up, its for a non catalizt model and i have bunch of stuff connected so i can use it like for 02 sensor etc. and i have no other electronic devices on it yet

[daniel577h]

can any1 help or give advice? BUMP

[boost_boy]

Could be your harness that have cut or seperated wires near the ecu or about anywhere from 6-10inches away from it. The previous owner in Japan could've had an AFC on it and since the unit was removed, they may have left the wire undone. Or you just got a screwed computer. Bad AFM wiring have the ability to burn out an ecu (been there and done that as well). Cost me $110 to get that issue repaired and it all came from trying to wire in the z32 AFM with no diagram and ended up screwing upi the ecu.

Dee

[daniel577h]

ok well i figured out the MAF thing, i re soldered the whole harness added wires for ecu for knock sensor etc... now i get no codes at all but the car still doesnt run right, it turns on and stays at 2k rpms, i try to rev it and it just dies, i thought it would be a vacuum leak but i cant seem to find any, checked all the intercooler pipes, vacuum lines, and manifolds with carb cleaner, but no luck, anything cause this? maybe bad air regulator or a open air bypass or something? any ideas are very appreciated

thanks,danny rocks

[float_6969]

Are you sure the computer is good? It could be bad and not give a code. This sounds odd...

[daniel577h]

is there anyway to check to see if the computer is good without replace it with a new one? this swap is driving me crazy...

[F3600]

dont rev it till its hot....or after 1 or 2 minute of idle. when my car is cold, it refuse throttle input... it just bog down and stall, its something related to the air regulator i think.

[float_6969]

not really. At least not with out a wiring diagram of the ECU board, and that's just a pain. I would personally double check all of the wiring and doulbe check for ANY leaks ANYWHERE. You may have to break down and buy another ECU and see if it'll work then.

[onevia1800cc]

if you unhook the mafs should it stay running? or start then 5 secs die?this is what mine does i am getting so heated the only thing left i can think to do is either pull and replace all the ITM gaskets and or recurculate my bov as that messes with your mixture

gotta love the ca for the 1 problem with 100 causes

[biosehnsucht]

daniel577h:odd that you don't code but are revlimited limp mode style. I would definately check for leaks anywhere, my stock IC piping definately was leaking, just got it replaced with some custom stuffs and it solved multiple symptoms at once.

onevia1800cc:with no MAF it should throw a code and limit to 2000-2500 rpm max (the get you home fail safe mode)

it should not just die, but if other things are horribly wrong the combination could lead to a stall since the MAF might be the only thing helping it work around the other problems

[onevia1800cc]

mine just dies, but i run horrible rich, i think my walbro has blown out my old *** piss fpr, at least that is my next replacement

[daniel577h]

i see, im gonna try my ecu on someone elses car that i just foind oout has a CA in it, hopefully it will work, and i will have to find whats causeing this thing to blow out my ecus. i dont understand why it would just die..

[float_6969]

If the vehicle is running, and the MAFS is unhooked, it will die. But you can restart it and it should still run. It THEN goes into limp-home and limits the rpms. If that doesn't happen, I would check your TP and ET sensors, as IIRC that is what the ECU backs up to.

[onevia1800cc]

If the vehicle is running, and the MAFS is unhooked, it will die. But you can restart it and it should still run. It THEN goes into limp-home and limits the rpms. If that doesn't happen, I would check your TP and ET sensors, as IIRC that is what the ECU backs up to.

ok if my car is running and i unhook the maf it will die, and if i leave it unhookedand start it again it will go to limp mode or if i hook it back up then start it will go to limp mode, i have done the latter??? i have no codes and never been limited i revs, just that backfire and sputter between 2ooo and 3000 rpm it also blows puffs of black when it's doing thiset ??? sorry i am a newbtp=throttle positionet??

[float_6969]

Engine Temperature. Sorry.

[daniel577h]

Would it be fine to try a blown ecu on a running car? I’m not sure if mine is blown but the guy how owns the car wants me to make sure nothing will happen just in case it is blown, I just want to see if the car runs and accelerates with it. thanks

[float_6969]

putting a bad ECU into a good car shouldn't cause any problem.

[daniel577h]

ok ecu is fine, today i decided to completly tune the car up, new plugs adjust timing, and all the idle thingys, and now it starts and idles fine just wont rev past 2k i dont get it before i got no codes and now i get codes 34 and 12 and ive tried different maf. tommoorow im gonna try to solve this problem, if anyone has any ideas for ANYTHING that can cause this please let me know thanks guys for the help