Meet "Bella" - The NICOclub RB25-powered 240Z Project

A forum for owners of S30 and S130 Datsun Z's... 240Z, 260Z, 280Z and 280ZX!
User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

By now, I was thoroughly worn out from this project. Keep in mind I'm usually building at least one other car at any given time, AND maintaining a finicky fleet of older Datsuns, AND running a few businesses AND maintaining Datsun Ranch AND being an overall awesome househusband... :biggrin:

I love restoring components, but don't always enjoy the overwhelming parts of coordinating a full build. So, I took some time off to assemble the axles and get a driveshaft ordered.

This setup uses components from the 370Z and splined axle shafts from Apex Engineered. Everything that wasn't new went in the parts washer and glass bead blaster before powder coating.

Before:
20210422_112311.jpg
During assembly:
20210421_113722.jpg
20210426_153715.jpg
Completed:
20210427_163148.jpg
With the 370Z differential and these beefy shafts, another weak link in the build has been eliminated.

The driveshaft was made by our good friends at ShaftMasters.com and they've always been awesome for us. It's a beautiful piece of work, and significantly lighter than the stock unit (and stronger as well)!
20210511_150831.jpg
20210511_150836.jpg
20210511_150859.jpg


User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Since we'll be using the electric power steering retrofit column kit from Zpowersteering.com on this build, I wanted to make sure the rack was pristine and ready for duty. A shop in Las Vegas that we've used for steering rack repairs in the past handled the rebuild, and with fresh boots, tie rod ends and bushings, it's ready for reinstallation when the time comes.

Needing a break from purely mechanical efforts, I spent some time on the interior. I wanted to ensure perfect seat fitment (after all, welding will be out of the question soon!) and safety.

Becky has always had her heart set on the 80's style Recaro seats, so I procured a pair and had them reupholstered in black leatherette with perforated center surfaces. The Recaro logo and stitching were redone to match the exterior paint color.

Not wanting to rely on a "kit" for mounting these, I fabricated my own mount plates of 1/8" steel and took this opportunity to reinforce the factory seat mounting provisions (using more 18" steel to bridge the transmission tunnel to the door sill). Flexibility is great for the human body - not so great for a performance car!

The seats look right at home and fit nicely, with sufficient adjustability for drivers of all heights.
20210314_113158.jpg
Now for the seat belts. I've built a lot of cars and retrofitted a lot of seat belts, and I like the kits from Seatbelt Planet. Their stuff is OEM quality and affordable. Since we'd be using a modern retractor and a shoulder harness (rather than the separate factory setup), I needed to reconfigure some things to make the belts work like a modern car. The retractors have to be mounted perfectly level for the locking actuator to work properly, as well as the inertia catch.

The original seat belt reel pockets were a good location, and simply needed some "persuasion" with a torch and body hammer to open up the pocket a few millimeters. More 1/8" steel was used to add additional security and bracing for the first point of attachment.
20220509_085156.jpg
The second point of attachment is in the rear strut tower. You'll remember I added 1/8" steel to provide more reinforcement for this area, so it was easy to weld in a threaded bung for the the swivel - there's our second point of attachment.

The third point of attachment was easy - This set of belts uses a plastic sleeve to hold the buckle up next to the seat, for easy latching and unlatching.

User avatar
PapaSmurf2k3
Site Admin
Posts: 24041
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

Post

Some solid recent updates here. Nice work!
I'm surprised you're using 1/8" steel and getting away with it though - have you had any burn-through to the factory sheet metal when trying to weld it?

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Yep. Definite learning curve. I'm using MAP gas on the steel first, then dragging the puddle to the thinner steel.

I'm certainly not very good but I'm learning some tricks as I go... Seems to be working!

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Mon Jun 24, 2024 7:31 pm
Hey, AZ, speaking of air... I dunno how fancy you want to get with the radiator fans, but my buds at Widget Man make a couple of kick-a** products for both brushed and brushless fan control using the existing ECT or gauge sender. Drop a hint if you're interested, I can give you personal tech support.
;)
So, like a variable speed setup? I'm all ears!

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

During a lull in the heavy lifting, I decided to knock out a few more small projects.

Side mirrors can make or break a build, and I wanted to get this part exactly right. I knew I wanted something period-correct, durable, clean and non-ricey.

Off-topic... Those of you who know me will vouch for this: I *HATE* fender mirrors. Unless your car is RHD and came with fender mirrors, it's a poser move. To each his own, but they're a pain in the a** to adjust, they're in the way when you want to work under the hood, and they simply don't offer the field of vision that door-mounted mirrors provide.

BTW, before you fanbois get all aggro, know this: I have 3 RHD cars, and I don't like the fender mirrors on them either. :poke:

Anyhow, I spent days and days looking at pics of cars from the late 60's to mid-80's, trying to find the "just right" look I was after. I found a few I liked, and scrounged up examples of each. Each time, I was disappointed. Wrong angle, too bulky, too square, too plasticky... Dammit.

Soon thereafter, chatting with a local guy at a car show, he was griping about his '77 Z mirrors and how they wouldn't stay in adjustment. I offered to check them out, so he came over to Datsun Ranch the next weekend and we pulled them off. I disassembled them and came up with a repair, and realized the OE mirrors were the look I was after.

I made a short tutorial on how to repair these, which you can check out here: Datsun 280Z Mirror Repair

Dual side mirrors weren't common on the S30, so I knew I'd have a challenge finding a pair - but an old friend came through with a pair off a 1978 Z that was being stripped due to rust issues. SCORE.
20210729_121023.jpg
These got the same repair treatment, and were media-blasted while disassembled. One more piece of the puzzle in place.
mirrors.jpg

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 9387
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

AZhitman wrote:
Tue Jun 25, 2024 3:29 pm
So, like a variable speed setup? I'm all ears!
If the fans are DC, you can easily go dual-speed with one of these plus 3 Bosch Box relays:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145812772939

If you want to go brushless, it looks to me like a pair of 10" SPAL pullers would fit right in. This will drive them with full variability from 15% to top speed:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143561612623

They both tee into an existing sensor and you "teach" them the sensor slope. Check out this website, Dave Barton is running a Jeep Pentastar brushless in his highly-worked Volvo 240 using the WM controller. There's a wealth of info in his fan blog, he's done a ton of research and the fans listed include mechanical, electrical, and cfm measurements:
https://www.240turbo.com/BrushlessFans.html

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 9387
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

PS - I had a black cat named Bella. Sweet old girl, but she needed fans too... every time she got stuck on the roof of the building next door. Ladder please!
:lolling:

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Remember how I said earlier that those TV shows lead one to believe that a "build" can be completed in days or weeks, or even months? Well, that's simply not the case. To do it right, there is a lot of assembly, disassembly, reassembly, and so on. This build is no different.

A few weeks went by where ALL we did was ponder the reassembly process after paint. Since the car would be stripped of every last bolt, nut, and fastener, this HAD to be right. With the car mostly assembled, sitting on a set of crappy 350Z rollers (for ease of movement), we could envision the entire reassembly process.

We slapped on some rattle-can primer to make it look uniform. The ZG flares were fitted and modified, and the holes were drilled. Since these would be attached with stainless button-head fasteners, I used a nutsert tool to place the nuts in the fenders for easy installation (and removal, in case one gets scraped or dinged). If anything needed to be test-fitted, cut, welded, or modified, now was the time.

Some small stuff came to mind, but by and large, I think she's ready for the next act.
20211110_135300.jpg
20211229_092347.jpg
20211229_092403.jpg
20211229_092415.jpg
NOW comes the painstaking process of disassembling the entire car, in order to prep for paint. I cleared off an entire bank of shelves, started collecting boxes and bags, broke out the labelmaker, and removed everything in the reverse order of assembly. Obviously, since it would be going back on the rotisserie, I needed to leave the suspension for last.

Lots of photos, lots of notes, and lots of organizing... Not knowing how long body and paint work would take, I had to be prepared to lose a lot of details (ones memory isn't what it used to be, so take notes kids!)

With the car completely stripped and back on the rotisserie, it was time to do some of the things on our list in preparation for paint.

One of these tasks was to reinforce the front fender lip. Since the fenders were cut to accommodate the ZG flares, I was concerned about the loss of rigidity from removing the fender lip. I recall seeing an episode of Full Custom Garage where Ian had addressed this very issue. Off to the metal shop to buy 1/8" diameter steel tubing.

Stripping the old paint (and our quickie primer):
bodywork_fenders (1).jpg
bodywork_fenders (2).jpg
Using my tubing straightener (from the custom brake line section earlier), I recalled that if the rollers on the tool are a little too tight, it will curl the metal rather than straightening it. I measured the length I needed for each fender, ran it through the straightener, and eventually achieved an exact replica of the fender lip curvature. Lots of tack welds and the fenders were stiffer than factory!

You can also see the nutserts for the flare attachment in the pics below.
bodywork_fenders (6).jpg
bodywork_fenders (8).jpg
Another smallish project - I wanted to replace the mounting studs in the "sugar scoops" (headlight housings) with larger, more sturdy bits. I welded in some M6x1.0 studs, which will allow them to be tightened firmly to the fenders.

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

And so, the disassembly begins (again).

Thankfully, this car had nearly no dings, dents, or rust. So, that made the metalwork a shorter process. Thankfully, James is experienced in body and paintwork, so that left me to do some minor metal massaging. Lots of hours with a hammer and dolly, shrinking disc, and other tools, so that we can minimize the use of filler.
bodywork_fenders (9).jpg
bodywork_fenders (10).jpg
bodywork_fenders (11).jpg
PXL_20221219_193227612.MP.jpg
Once the filler started flying and the countless sanding tools were in use, that left me free to get the shell back on the rotisserie.
PXL_20230326_230615122.jpg
My task now was to learn how to use professional seam sealer, and seal every seam or joint on the car. The gun for applying seam sealer is like a caulking gun, except it multiplies the trigger force so that the sealer can be laid down smoothly. I got the hang of it, but starting on the underside was a good idea. :chuckle:

Once the seam sealer was complete (I may have overdone it - I sealed areas that will never again see the light of day... what can I say, I'm thorough) it was time for the next step. Undercoating the shell would have been an easy task, but I couldn't bring myself to spray black tarry goop all over a shell that I'd just spent two years perfecting.

Instead, I opted for Raptor Liner (yes, truck bedliner). Most modern cars have a flexible coating on their rocker panels and wheelwells to prevent paint chips and debris damage. I like the sound deadening aspect of it, and most importantly, the plan is to paint the ENTIRE car (not just the visible surfaces) - and this material is paintable.

Before one goes slinging bedliner at a shell, it needs a few things: A decent "tooth" for good adhesion (typically 200-300 grit is fine) as well as a complete acetone bath and a final blowout with the air gun. I used an old dented hood to practice my technique. Even though I've applied this product on a couple of my trucks, I wanted to get a specific texture: Not too rough, and not too smooth - just smooth enough to be easily washable. 35psi with a schutz gun turned out to be perfect, so it's time to get started.

Except it's not. We're not cleaning primer, paint and bedliner out of every threaded hole on this car, so an assortment of silicone plugs and caps come in handy. Typically, these are used for powdercoating but they'll do a good job of saving me hours and hours of thread chasing afterwards. Masking tape and plastic sheeting was applied to the exterior of the car and I wheeled her outside for spraying.
PXL_20230312_022357820.jpg
PXL_20230313_010833487.jpg
PXL_20230314_200044267.jpg
More later!

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Using a tintable coating without tint is probably not something I'd do again. Although it initially saved a chunk of money, it's hard to determine coverage (untinted bedliner is almost clear). So, I probably used more than necessary (8 bottles, or enough for two full-size truck beds). No savings. :gapteeth:

I coated the inner roof skin, the entire undercarriage, the wheelwells, entire interior and firewall, inside the door shells, inside the cowl, the back of the cowl panel and inner hood surface... basically all the parts of a car you wouldn't polish.
PXL_20230314_221042880.jpg
PXL_20230319_162700824.jpg
PXL_20230320_002110905.jpg
PXL_20230324_223049885.jpg
PXL_20230325_001000402.jpg
PXL_20230325_001027449.jpg
While I'll still add insulation and sound deadening to the interior later, the difference is already impressive. The roof skin feels dead solid, and this car should be as quiet and well-insulated as a modern car.

By now, James had finished his magic on the doors, fenders, and hood. The last step for now was to slather the entire car in Eastwood OptiFlow Urethane Primer. This is a two-part product that can be applied with a spray gun, a roller or even a brush. Since it's all going to get sanded off anyway, my painter said just lay it on thick!

Started with the loose parts, just to get a feel for it. Easy to apply, but messy! Thankful for massive dropcloths here at the Ranch!
bodywork_fenders (12).jpg
bodywork_fenders (13).jpg
PXL_20221127_213121883.jpg
PXL_20221130_194051699.jpg
PXL_20221130_194109889.jpg
Time to move on to the shell... when finished, I'd used nearly two gallons. :blush:
PXL_20221209_185211374.jpg
PXL_20221218_222708971.jpg
PXL_20221219_232110623.jpg
PXL_20221228_233007818.jpg
PXL_20221228_233022525.jpg
Time for a break to let this cure and start putting together a body dolly for transport to the painter!

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

The day we thought would never come - She's ready to head out for paint!
PXL_20230326_230615122.jpg
A nerve-wracking drive across town made me start longing for an enclosed trailer! She's in good hands, and I'll get an update ready as soon as she's wearing her new color!
PXL_20230327_170501875.jpg

User avatar
PapaSmurf2k3
Site Admin
Posts: 24041
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

Post

If you thought you wanted an enclosed trailer on the trip in, just wait for the trip back home with the fully painted car!

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 9387
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2024 10:27 am
If you thought you wanted an enclosed trailer on the trip in, just wait for the trip back home with the fully painted car!
Tarpaulins, anyone?
:lolling:

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2024 10:27 am
If you thought you wanted an enclosed trailer on the trip in, just wait for the trip back home with the fully painted car!
Facts. I'm already planning a route, time and chase car. Secret Service, take notes. :)

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 9387
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

Hey, just a thought... you already have a rotisserie. Why not pallet wrap?

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

115* temps + 50mph + fresh paint... all scary. :(

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 9387
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

You could always test it on a small junk part. 75 gauge polyolefin doesn't shrink until about 255F, and if you're using 2K clearcoat then it should be harmless to it when fully set. In your environment I think I'd be more scared of abrasive dust and sand than anything else, and wrap would completely protect against that.

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 19890
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

Looking great!

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

After nearly a year away from home (long story for another time), she's BACK!

Definitely a nail-biter, rolling 30 miles home with the car on its chassis stand, strapped on the trailer. Funny thing about towing (or driving) something of interest: People want to look, wave, take pictures - but when they do, they're looking at your car... and as such, they're veering ever-closer! Nerve-wracking for sure. I don't mind trailer-whipping someone who can't stay in their lane, but let's not do that with two years of hard work sitting on the trailer.
20240712_094820.jpg
20240712_094809.jpg
All settled in back at Datsun Ranch. Gonna enlist some help to get her off the body dolly, and it's go time!
450849553_10221148393293380_1049738705424051975_n.jpg
In the meantime, I've begun disassembly of the RB engine. That'll be the next post!

User avatar
PapaSmurf2k3
Site Admin
Posts: 24041
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

Post

SUH-WEET

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 19890
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

That color is sooooooo good!!!

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 9387
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

float_6969 wrote:
Wed Aug 07, 2024 4:52 am
That color is sooooooo good!!!
For some Japlish reason known only in the bowels of Nissan Yokahama, they called this color on the Juke "Cosmic Blue". One of my coworkers bought one but when he tried to register it, the woman at the counter (who had seen the car and the prior registration) insisted it was a purple repaint and that the title needed to be changed. After a ridiculous go-round to prove Nissan actually called it blue, he waggishly put a vanity plate on it reading "ITSBLUE" and made sure the same woman had to process the paperwork.
:lolling:

Cosmic Blue Juke.jpg

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

While I pondered how to get the car off the dolly (by myself), I went ahead and started disassembling the RB in preparation for new seals, some head work, and some plumbing upgrades. Thankfully, this engine was still amazingly clean, and I'm eager to get it to the machine shop for decking, new valve stem seals, a head drain, and Tomei poncams!
20240714_122008.jpg
20240714_122020.jpg
20240714_134502.jpg
20240714_153730.jpg
20240714_173145.jpg
Nothing gets reassembled without a good cleaning, and I gave the block a fresh coat of POR-15 engine enamel.
20240716_142605.jpg
20240716_142614.jpg
In chatting with other RB owners, I realized the Walbro 255 fuel pump (pictured) probably wasn't going to cut it with this build, so I ordered a Walbro 450 and installed it instead.
20240724_134233.jpg
Getting the car off the stand (solo) was a task in itself. I considered wheeling it over to the lift and separating the body from the stand that way, but then I had to get the body BACK into its bay for reassembly. Could have reassembled the rotisserie to hold the body while I removed the stand, but then I'm right back where I was.

Ultimately, I wound up using every jack, every stand, lots of wood blocks and elevated the stand about 1" off the ground - and then promptl took the SawZall to it. :biggrin: The stand had served its purpose, so it'll be repurposed into something else later (metal isn't cheap, so I don't throw anything away).

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Wanna know who's SUPER-thankful he took pics all through the preassembly and disassembly? THIS GUY! :dblthumb:

After spending the better part of a day getting her on jackstands and at a workable height, I started assembling the windshield wiper assembly.
20240725_153844.jpg
20240804_114143~2.jpg
20240804_114148~2.jpg
20240804_114555.jpg
20240804_114609.jpg
20240804_125759.jpg
20240804_184450.jpg
Up next, the hatch struts and the headlight buckets.
20240725_160749.jpg
20240803_090549.jpg
20240804_082535.jpg
20240804_184439.jpg
Now for the brake lines and fuel lines, as well as the fuel tank and the charcoal canister and its associated plumbing. Super-appreciative of Becky for helping me thread the lines without bending them!
20240809_123627.jpg
20240809_123745.jpg
20240809_124036.jpg
20240809_124210.jpg
20240809_131031.jpg
20240809_152042.jpg
20240809_160446.jpg
I found some nice 1" x 1/4" closed-cell foam strip to isolate the tank from the underside of the car, and some "fuel tank strap tape" from an old musclecar restoration shop to use between the steel straps and the tank. The charcoal canister is a bit overkill (size-wise), but I don't plan on having to change it anytime in the next decade!

Going to take a break for some shop cleanup, personal hygiene, and some REST, before I start assembling the suspension!

Thanks for checking in! :bigthumb:

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 19890
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

Thanks for the update! I'm ready for the next one!

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 71102
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Short update, since I clearly didn't take a break as I planned...

Today, installed some more of the front suspension.
20240811_185137.jpg
20240811_184531.jpg
All fasteners are staying loose until installation is complete (which is a good idea ANYTIME you're assembling something). This prevents hassles when undoing something (which will happen) and also keeps things oriented cleanly rather than getting torqued crooked by premature tightening.

Also, the turbo manifold, downpipe and turbo hot side housing were sent off to be JetHot coated, and the cold side is getting a heat dissipation coating as well. I'll have pics of those when they're done.

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 9387
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

AZhitman wrote:
Sun Aug 11, 2024 9:20 pm
All fasteners are staying loose until installation is complete (which is a good idea ANYTIME you're assembling something). This prevents hassles when undoing something (which will happen) and also keeps things oriented cleanly rather than getting torqued crooked by premature tightening.
We'd see a lot fewer creak and groan complaints if Nissan (and most other OEM's) took your advice. The suspensions on cars these days are all tightened and laser aligned with the wheels up, which results the entire frame being stressed when the weight is dropped on the wheels. We end up doing a "chassis relaxation" to fix it, where we take the subframe, gusset, and rack bolts loose with the wheels down on an alignment rack, then retorque them and realign. Amazing how many little noises come from that simple little issue.
:biggrin:

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 19890
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

Yeah, I learned that lesson as a kid. I guess I just assumed it was common knowledge. Apparently not!

User avatar
PapaSmurf2k3
Site Admin
Posts: 24041
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Mon Aug 12, 2024 4:49 am
We'd see a lot fewer creak and groan complaints if Nissan (and most other OEM's) took your advice.
Nissan Canton did this while I worked there, at least to the best of their ability. Control arms had a jig that would put them at the correct angle prior to the whole car being put under its own weight. Saves the bushings quite a bit.
But you're right, as soon as they'd drop the cars down, drive it over a rumble strip, and take them over the chassis-twister on the test tracks, all sorts of pops would happen and it wouldn't be a bad idea to re-loosen and re-tighten everything. Tough to do when you're building 2000 cars a day though.

The bigger problem is they had 1 jig for all options within a model (think 2wd vs 4wd off road versions of the trucks), so compromises had to be made.


Return to “Datsun Z Forum”