I have been messing around with lowering my wagon, I have had a look at a few threads and no-one seems to be doing it because it's 4x4, I'm doing it because I can. "Because Stance"
Lowering it with the torsion bars, first atempt was good for stance but s*** for suspension, so I thought about it and came up with the following process,
1. Drive the front of the vehicle onto ramps (flat concrete area)
2. Jack the vehicle until all weight comes off torsion bars (you need a high lift jack and some blocks)
3. Release the torsion bar adjusters fully from the centre cross member
4. Remove adjusters from the torsion bar splines
5. Remove lower control arm bump stops
6. Lower the vehicle weight back down onto the ramps, it will bottom out on the LCA
7. Re-index the torsion bar adjusters so that you can just fit the adjuster bolt and nut back together
8. Jack the weight off the vehicle again
9. Tension the torsion bars about half way down the thread
10. Remove the ramps
11. Lower vehicle to the ground and check height and clearances to suit, I use the lower control arm pivot bolt to the ground
12. Repeat 8 and 9 until you get 11 to suit your height requirement
13. Raise the vehicle once your height is set, loosen the lower control arm pivot bolt, front and rear of LCA, replace bump stops
14. Lower the vehicle back to the ground and tighten LCA bolts
15. check the height is where you want it to be
Wheel alignment is needed once you're finished
I run 15x10 -41p wheels, yes they rub a bit, I will adjust the body work (mostly the plastic inners and my F/Glass flares) to suit the stance, aka Big Hammer or hack saw, I use it for towing a racecar because of the heavy chassis.
I have used M35 Stagea Tien rear springs and adjusters with 2WD HB shocks in the rear
2WD HB shocks in the front.
Here's a pic, she's not pretty, it was just for towing the racecar.towing duties are now taken over by a Hiace van with 1UZ.
