Lower control arm bushings- Search didn't help

[Sentientbydesign]

My bushings on my 96 I30 need to be replaced. I've seen bushings for the Maxima for that year, but I'm not sure if they will work on my I30. I don't have $225 per arm for OEM and I've heard bad stories about cheaper Ebay arms. Anybody's input would be great.

Also, does replacing the bushings or arms require any special tools?

[audtatious]

Bump...

I don't have a I30 so I'm no help unless it involves something from the FSM. Hav you tried our sponsors?

[Sentientbydesign]

No I haven't tried them yet. It's not that I can't fiind the bushings, I'm moreso wondering if anyone else has tried them and could give me the heads up or any warnings

[maxhopper]

The I30 bushings should be identicle to the Max. You can get energy suspension bushings here. http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm

To replace the lower control arm bushings, you'll first need to remove the control arm. Next place a bucket of water under where you'll be removing the bushins. Take a propane torch and burn the old bushings out. After a while they'll fall out of the control arm like little fire balls...hopefully into the bucket of water. Then install the new bushings and reinstall the control arm. You may have to have the new bushings pressed in at a machine shop.

I would also recommend replacing the sway bar and end link bushings. They will tighten up the handling on the front end considerably.

[Q45tech]

Solid bushings will adversely affect the vibration and impact isolation especially on the luxury version I30/I35.

10 year old cars all have changed/worn [out] bushings, standard maintenance procedure to replace these isolation components. Ride like new requires new oem replacement components periodically.

[Sentientbydesign]

My mechanical know-how is limited. Other than a torque wrench will I need any other special tools?

Would two jack stands in the front be enough to hold the front end up?

I'm normally not cheap about things, but I just got married and we're "recovering" from all of the expenses. Budget is going to be tight for a while.

Are the other maintenance suggestions you made difficult to do for someone new to suspension?

[maxhopper]

The end link bushings are very simple. You will need 4 bushings to replace both ends. The sway bar bushings are similarly easy. As long as you have a 10,12,14mm socket, you should be fine.

[Sentientbydesign]

I'm going to go get a "Hayes" manual to see if I can figure out the Control Arm Bushings. It seems as thought I have to remove the entire control arm in order to replace the bushings.

The control arm is connected at the bushing point looks like a small tunnel, at the wheel (some kind of pivot joint with a castlelated nut and cotter pin) and there's also another bushing of sorts farther towards the back which has 3 large nuts and lock washers holding it in place. I'm pretty sure I can remove all of them, but I'm worried about the wheel and tire moving and me not being able to put everything back together.

Also, the energy suspension bushings came with a bunch of grade 8 flat washers, two of the tunnel shaped bushings and two other bushings that are flat on one side, arched on the other and have slightly smaller holes than the tunnel shaped ones. Does that go under the plate with the 3 nuts farther back on the car?

Sorry for my nescience guys.

[maxhopper]

The bushing with the castle nut/cotter pin (if we're on the same page) is the lower ball joint. I believe the other link you are referring to is the sway bar end link.

You will probably have to have someone help you push the control arm back up to secure the lower ball joint if the front strut is still connected. You could also use a spare jack to push the control arm up if you are doing this by yourself.

Take a look at this diagram and let me know exactly what compnents you are talking about.

[internetautomart]

I'm going to go get a "Hayes" manual to see if I can figure out the Control Arm Bushings. It seems as thought I have to remove the entire control arm in order to replace the bushings.

The control arm is connected at the bushing point looks like a small tunnel, at the wheel (some kind of pivot joint with a castlelated nut and cotter pin) and there's also another bushing of sorts farther towards the back which has 3 large nuts and lock washers holding it in place. I'm pretty sure I can remove all of them, but I'm worried about the wheel and tire moving and me not being able to put everything back together.

Also, the energy suspension bushings came with a bunch of grade 8 flat washers, two of the tunnel shaped bushings and two other bushings that are flat on one side, arched on the other and have slightly smaller holes than the tunnel shaped ones. Does that go under the plate with the 3 nuts farther back on the car?

Sorry for my nescience guys.

you do have to remove the arm to replace the bushings.your wheel and tire will move, but you'll be able to put it back together.

the flat bottom bushings looks like an "n" are the rear bushings (#16 in the pic above)

[Sentientbydesign]

First of all I just want to say that you guys are SUPER awesome for helping me out. I truly apreciate it.

The other connection point I was reffering to was the transverse link. I think the second "bushing" I got from Energy Suspension goes there. I'm not sure. I do know from looking below that whatever does go in the transverse link spot is hardened and cracking.

One bushing goes over the link bushing pin and is shaped like a pipe. The other bushing is flat on one side, arched on the other and has a hole in the middles with grooves midway in the hole. I think the pre lube goes in there. Go in there about once every six weeks

[dr-rjp]

They say that "Timing is everything."

I have a 1998 I30 with shot LCA and sway bar bushings on the left side. I bought new bushings from ES -- as have a lot of Maxmima owners have -- but I am going to need a find both a machine shop to punch in the new ones after the old ones come out, and a repair shop to do the work.

The only question I have concerns the ride quality of the ES bushings.

Q45Tech: what did you mean exactly by saying that "Solid bushings will adversely affect the vibration and impact isolation especially on the luxury version I30/I35."

[maxhopper]

The general consensus is that poly urethane bushing transfer more vibration than rubber bushings, but offer the benefit of extended life over the rubber bushings.

[Sentientbydesign]

Timing IS everything. I just went over to my dads and he and his mechanic helped me install the new bushings.

First of all, I wouldn't pay a mechanic to do this job with one exception. You need the right tools. We used SAE and metric bits. Some as large as 24mm. And high torque socket wrenches. I didn't personally have all of the tools but my dad did.

You don't actually need a machine shop. The old bushings can be torched and sawed off with a reciprocating saw. I'm not going to say that it was all easy work, but taking them off and putting them on wasn't bad, just getting the old bushings out that was a pain.

Torch the transverse link bushings. They will be a pain to get off but once they start burning, you can get a flathead screw driver and pry them off. Then you'll need the reciprocating saw to cut the thin metal shell inside the control arm. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THE ARM ITSELF, just the small pipe that held the original bushing.

What you will need the machine shop for is the ball joints. They have to be pressed in and out. You should check to see if yours are warn and how well them move once you get them out.

There is a tunning fork like tool used to push the ball joint nut out of the hole it's in. It was very helpful. You don't pop the ball joint itself, just the screw portion away from the wheel assembly.

Take apart and put together took about 30-45 mins. Getting the old bushings off and figuring out that we needed to cut them was the long part.

My ride isn't very soft as I have eibach springs and tokico illuminas set to 4, however I noticed no degradation from installing the new bushings. There was NO press work needed. Just cut the piping in the transverse link and pop the new bushing in. A large C clamp helps to get the bushing in there nicely though.

[dr-rjp]

Timing IS everything. I just went over to my dads and he and his mechanic helped me install the new bushings.

First of all, I wouldn't pay a mechanic to do this job with one exception. You need the right tools.

My exception is that I have a severe neck injury that prevents me from doing stuff like this...so I have no choice.

[Sentientbydesign]

Are you running stock suspension on your I30?

The only thing I notice is a slightly more elastic ride than before. But then again I have stiffened suspension. The density of the stock vs. ES bushings didn't seem to be much different.

The tire shop I go to were going to charge me $200 for the entire job including pressing out the old bushings. Hope that helps.

[dr-rjp]

Are you running stock suspension on your I30?

The only thing I notice is a slightly more elastic ride than before. But then again I have stiffened suspension. The density of the stock vs. ES bushings didn't seem to be much different.

The tire shop I go to were going to charge me $200 for the entire job including pressing out the old bushings. Hope that helps.

I had the Energy Suspension bushings installed on my LCA's and my front sway bar. Car feels good with them.

[alexlloyd]

The only thing I would add to this is that while the LCA is out of the car, spend the extra time (and$$) and do the ball joints as well. Putting new bushings in will transfer all the load and vibration back where it belongs, on the ball joints. If they have any slop in them, they will wear out in a matter of months. The difference in cost should be minimal (joints are typically $50.00) but could be more. There is nothing like a NEW front end to make you enjoy your vehicle more, the ride and handling changes will be noticable from the moment you back it out of the garage.