Yes, true flex fuel, GM Ethenol Content Sensor and all. the AEM will blend and adjust fuel, timing and boost dependent on E%WDRacing wrote:So a true flex fuel setup? That's pretty sweet if it works well.
That's true. The 4,000lb Q was still fairly ridiculous with 350+ hp and torque.WDRacing wrote:My 540 has 300ish hp/q and it's not slow by any means. Seeing as how the 540 outweighs a Miata by about 1500 friggin lbs, I'd consider a 300hp Miata to be pretty much a pocket rocket.
Chris, you're going about this exactly the right way. Plan, save, buy. Take your time and do it right the first time.
That's badass!Greenblurr93 wrote:Yes, true flex fuel, GM Ethenol Content Sensor and all. the AEM will blend and adjust fuel, timing and boost dependent on E%WDRacing wrote:So a true flex fuel setup? That's pretty sweet if it works well.
That is quite useful advice. I think i'm also going to buy a seal pulley to be safe.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Top Gear Top Tip while replacing the rear main- make sure you pry from the top side of the seal when you're pulling it out. That way, if you f*** up and scratch the surrounding metal, it should be above the oil line and therefore not leak as much.
Don't worry. I have other plans that may involve it later on anyways. I'm just going to store it with the other Miata parts for now. If you ever end up needing it back though i'll be happy to send it back.AZhitman wrote:Crap - MSM clutch is already headed your way.
Agreed. I've only got one and he's an RV mechanic! Granted, I don't use him for much of anything but its good to have the option, such as the case of my brake lines this past winter. Even the labor rate isn't a factor so long as the work is quality and is performed the same way (or better) than I would have done it.WDRacing wrote:As long as they are reliable...I've become so damn leery of bad mechanics these days. A trustworthy mechanic is worth their weight in gold.
Shoot, I'll sell you a whole car for what you want to build your own for.Kompresshun wrote:I've already done V8 swap research. It's INSANELY expensive and is in no comparison to boosting a 1.6L or 1.8L...
Just a DIY 5.0L V8 swap with all parts and swap parts would run about $7,500... An LSX would be $12,000+. You have to swap rear axles, then just the subframe and everything you need to put the engine in the car runs about $5,000. Oh and then you need a custom driveshaft and wiring harness too. Now sure you could probably do a hack job and save a grand or two, but I don't want a piece of junk.
In comparison, I could swap in a 1.8L and boost it with quality parts for around $2,500-3,000 then probably make 250ish hp. That's more power than a stock 5.0L makes.