fontana dan wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 25, 2022 5:23 pm

I've got a set of 4 new KYB SR Specials which I sourced from Japan through Streeter.
Already done power steering pump, high pressure hose, tension rods and front swaybar links. Factory rack seems fine at this point.

Don't rev the engine? Sorry too late. Yeah the trans does suck.

Thats awesome, im glad there is still options out there to get those kyb specials. Im looking forward to your updates
Hoenstly when you mentioned upshifting issues i would have thought it was more noticeable, sounds like a healthy engine and trans to me
I did forget to mention that the poly bushings from energy suspension are for the 240sx from 91 to 98 i believe. The rack bushings will fit the car as well. But if your planning on doing the rear subfram, its honeslty up to you if you want to drop the whole subframe or take all the suspension links off first then drop.... there is no right or wrong way but if youre going to take everything apart to get a clean frame then i would personally take all the links off first, as well as the diff and drop the frame by itself. I would think it makes it easier unbolting everything without the frame or parts swinging around while you try to unbolt rusted or muddy bolts
Once doing the subframe bushings, DO NOT CUT THE OEM BUSHING SLEEVE. The poly bushings from energy suspension need it.... others will specify to cut said sleeve. Same goes for the knuckles.

To your videos point - your car wasn't even fully warmed up which means you're transmission wasn't either. Not the best scenarios for WOT shifts. Redline shifts in your case should have improved with a fully warmed up drivetrain.

If this is your primary driver the subframe drop, while still relatively easy, should be taken slowly and done correctly. Its bulky so having a friend to help lower and raise would help granted I did it solo with a jack. I did not notice any drivetrain feedback from the bushings and i'm pretty picky about that myself. I also have poly front lower control arm bushings. I can tell you what DID cause a lot of NVH into the my driving experience. Heim joint tension rods. You sound like me so get ones with rubber. I want to say I got SPC camber arms.

Will go ahead and order energy poly diff bushings.
@ludeam There is an issue with the thermostat; the engine will not reach operating temp in cold weather. Have a new one waiting to install. Does a 30F difference in coolant temperature have an impact on trans shift quality? We will see.
The 1-2 upshift is intermittent, it slips worse when the transmission is cold. When I first bought the car I thought it was toast.

Ah ok. Keep this in mind. The general rule of thumb is engine oil takes 3x as long to get up to temp as the coolant does. I would argue that transmission takes even longer due to the capacity.

Ludeaem wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 27, 2022 3:23 pm

I would argue that transmission takes even longer due to the capacity.

Depends very greatly on your driving type and style. The bulk of the heat generated in any A/T comes from hydraulic resistance inside the Torque Converter. Simply put, heat is what happens to whatever horsepower is produced by the engine but not used by the wheels. Hence, highway driving with the TC locked generates very little heat, stop-and-go driving with the TC in constant slip generates quite a lot, especially if your foot is heavy.

Took this video to demonstrate how bad the front shocks are before taking the car apart. It's on jackstands now. Removing struts tomorrow for real.
What's kind of weird to me is that neither appears to be leaking oil but they are both totally blown.

You're going to miss that cushion!

Anyone know if it is possible to separate the strut from the knuckle in-vehicle?
The ABS wheel speed sensor ($400 ea. on rockauto) is seized in the knuckle.

No, because you need spring compressors to release the spring tension and remove the top hat. Mine was a bit stuck too and if I remember correctly I sprayed some wd40 or pentrating oil from the hub side and gently pried with a flat head all around the sensor.

Got the struts out. I disconnected the ABS sensor pigtail in the engine bay and fed it through the grommet into the wheel well, leaving the sensors in place on the knuckle.
Anyone can give info on front lower balljoints? Boots are torn on both.

Moog K9820. I believe they are good for front and rear even though sites say they won't work. I'm also seeing Moog 9818 which are for Maxima/i30s.

For the cartridges loosely fall this guy for the first few minutes. He is putting a different strut insert in so the drilling part etc shouldn't be followed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqglS6U ... KrzysztofP.

Thanks for the part # Ludeaem.
I have the struts reassembled now with new inserts. Will make a new thread and do a writeup on this if everything else goes back together smoothly.

Good deal. I am still sourcing front struts so I can finish my swap from BC's

Trying to go back to factory struts? Good luck finding some.
The car rides sooo much better now. Its currently getting an alignment. I've made a thread on this install.
1997-infiniti-q45-front-struts-kyb-sr-s ... 32056.html

No, I threw out my OEM struts years ago.