ash10hunt wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 13, 2021 5:17 pm
Thanks! How hard is it to clear the drains?
You're most welcome. Depends. I'm a Nissan guy, the only Infiniti I ever had to clear was an M35. That was a complete PITA, the drain outlets were buried behind the steering crossmember with absolutely no room for hands. But it's different for each car. I can give you some general tips, and there are several important things to understand about clogs.
1) Clogs are most often in the fittings and not the hoses. They usually happen at the bottom fittings where the drains exit the car. Clogs at the top are usually from obvious leaves and debris. It's rare for a hose to clog unless it's kinked, but don't ever try to straighten a kink, replace the hose. Fittings that exit the car "level" are much
more prone to clogging than fittings with a slight down-angle.
2) Test before you go digging, open the roof and pour some clean water into the water channels. Specific models will tend to clog either the front drains or the rear, it's very rare to see both ends totally obstructed. That's because of roof angle, and the vast majority tend to clog the fronts. For the same reason, you may need to park on an uphill to test the rears. Water from a clear drain will generally come out behind the wheels at both front and rear.
3) if you normally park on an uphill or downhill, the clogs will almost always be at the end of the car that's lower.
4) Clogged rears are almost always easier to clear from the bottom up, because the entry holes are underneath the roof pane even when it's retracted. The entry holes for the fronts are usually exposed and can often be blown out or snaked from the top.
5) Clogs at the bottom are usually composed of an amalgam of mud and tree sap, so they can practically ossify. If the drain doesn't clear from normal methods, you'll need to get at the outlet fittings and "core them out" to restore flow. I have a small #1 phillips with a blade bent 90 degrees that I use for digging out stubborn crud. On most N/I models the fronts are at the top of the firewall and the rears are in the inner fender behind the rear wheels, so some disassembly is almost always needed.
6) If you don't have compressed air, the best-cheapest cleaning tool is a roll of grass-trimmer line.
7) If you do have compressed air, be acutely aware that you can blow the hose off one of the fittings and think
you cleared it, only to be flooded with the next rain.
8) Look under
your carpets once the blockage is resolved. Virtually all Nissan products have a plastic barrier layered into the carpet and foam spacers underneath it, so you can easily have gallons of water in the floor pan and never know it. I've actually found white pond scum growing in the pans of some cars with leakage problems that weren't handled properly, sometimes years after the initial repair.