Kouki Type-X Cluster Wiring Help

Post by **whowutwut** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:51 am

DreamN wrote: Going to bend the arm a bit like finalgear posted. No biggie.

Hey, can you take a pic when you bend the fuel arm? Does this fix the needle reading full on the gas gauge or just fixes the empty point? I believe I had almost a full tank when I was running the gauge cluster and it was reading around 1/2 with the type x cluster. So if the float was at the full position (with the arm bent) will it max the fuel gauge? Or is this "fix" simply to accurately send the empty point of the tank? just trying to understand before pulling the fuel pump and needing to replace the o ring yet once again. lol

Post by **Sempre 5** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:18 am

Got the speed sensor and I have 3 out of 4 gauges working(speed, tach, and temp)

I still can't get my gas gauge to work. I've tried switching the gauges, needle and face with the original cluster's gas gauge, but no success.

Been ripping my hair out with dead emails (no reply) but found almost all the info in pulling off this cluster mod (thanks Nico).

If ANYBODY has advice, feel free to share itThanks for the read

Post by **whowutwut** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:23 am

Mine moves, but it's probably not accurate. I haven't fussed around with the fuel float in the tank... I'm just going to go by the odometer and fill it up based on km driven.

Does yours sit all the way flat on the bottom? it was working on the KA cluster right? maybe that gauge is broken?

Post by **Sempre 5** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:34 am

No mine floats at the default 1/2 way.

My mech did the job and did great but we got stuck on this fuel gauge. I noticed cuz when I brought the car in, I had close to an empty tank, and then asked my mech "did you put gas in the car" cuz it read 1/2 way.

That's when he told me they couldn't get the fuel gauge to work. They've been using info from here at Nico, but they said they couldn't get enough info to fix the problem

We've tried almost everything, including switching the gauges, needle and face with the original cluster's gas gauge, but no success.

Post by **whowutwut** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:49 am

Hey, I think your cluster is working as much as it will. From what I know, the fuel gauge does not work. (someone can correct me if i'm wrong) I think the fuel sending unit is different for the 180sx kouki gauge than the US 240sx gauge so there's the problem. I thought it was mentioned earlier in this thread..

So like some people on this thread say you can bend the arm in the fuel tank to get it to read accurately when almost empty. But I don't think you'll be able to get it to read Full and Empty accurately.

Hope you're mechanic is not charging too much for all the trouble shooting when it looks like you've already got it working as much as best as it will !

Post by **Sempre 5** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:54 am

Yeah we'll find out today what the damage ($) is like

Somebody else who has done this cluster told me that the wiring for the fuel is actually reversed, and some modding is required. Also that the S14 fuel information sender does NOT fit in the S13 frame, so that's out of the question.

The guy is currently in the US driving his Skyline back to Canada. But ya I was hoping for maybe a solution instead of waiting on pins and needles and an everlasting, always 1/2 full gas tank (gee I wish it were true)

Post by **Onizuka** » Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:41 am

I'm just giving this a bump to see if any one ever figured out how to get the fuel gauge working correctly (i.e. swapping back to original fuel gauge). I'm about to get started on this, lots of good info in this thread

Edit: also, is there anything from stopping me from using #4 (Black) wire from the US harness for grounding out X30 (the airbag light) instead of #28 (Black). It would make the wiring a little bit more clean because you wouldn't have to double back the wire to connect it to each plug.
Modified by Onizuka at 4:59 PM 4/25/2009

Post by **DreamN** » Sat Apr 25, 2009 7:11 pm

As far as the fuel gauge issue no one has really posted on that issue. My fuel gauge reads slightly higher than it should. Currently I'm experimenting with the idea of manually adjusting the fuel gauge needle and hoping that it'll have even the slightest effect. I'll report on this if anything positive or negative happens.

Grounding it to your cruise control's ground might work. Give it a try. Test everything out before wrapping it up just incase it doesn't though.

Also, I posted awhile ago that I had a buzzing EGI relay. I figured it was a wiring issue with my gauge cluster. I redid the wiring, but this time around I did not wire in #20 (Blue) from the USDM harness to X8. I only wired in #24 (Green) from the USDM harness to X8.

Everything works greats and lights up perfectly as well.

Post by **Onizuka** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 7:08 am

As long as I'm testing I'll give swapping out the fuel gauge a shot and report back.

Post by **Onizuka** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 8:03 am

Fuel gauge cannot be swapped out the attachment screws that double as electrical terminals have different spacings.

Post by **Sempre 5** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 9:31 am

I'm still struggling with the fuel gauge issue.

My mech and I believe the answer might be in using the right ECU

Any insight?

Post by **Onizuka** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:19 am

I dont see how that makes a difference, I've never had any issues with the fuel gauge with the myriad of engine and ecu combo's I've had in both my s13's. The only definite way of solving this is to take a voltmeter to each the US and late model JDM fuel level sensors and find out the differences. My guess is that the kouki S13 was updated to S14 sensors almost entirely, not just the engine set.

Post by **Onizuka** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 10:49 am

Ok, so I just finished checking and installing my gauge pod, and everything works great, including the fuel gauge I remembered to check the fuel level before I switched them. Before switching there was slightly less than a 1/8th tank, and the new fuel gauge reads exactly the same. The only part I changed from the wiring chart on page one is using #4 wire (black) instead of #28 wire (Black) to ground out # X30, which is the airbag light. This shouldnt have any effect on the fuel gauge. I haven't filled it up yet, and it may read off when I do, but my question is: Has any one else found their fuel gauge to work correctly? My only guess is that either the signal voltage for empty is the same, or perhaps there is more than one part number for the kouki gauge cluster (i.e. the earlier models fuel gauge works but later models dont, etc.)

Post by **whowutwut** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 11:10 am

Try filling up the tank, with mine, I've never seen it all the way up to full, it does go above half way if I remember... Just don't let it run to empty! haha.. let me know how it goes.. .

I think you're right, the signal coming from the US s13 fuel level is different from the Japanese late model type x fuel level signal.

Post by **Onizuka** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 1:06 pm

Ok so I put all the gas I had in my jerry can ( a little less than 5 gallons) and the need went up to under a half tank, which is about right. My only other thought is that it may be because I have a s14 sr20 motor/ecu in my car. I'm going to take 7 gallons over there and see what happens.

Post by **Onizuka** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 3:27 pm

I put the 7 gallons in and it raised to fuel gauge to halfway between full and 3/4, does anybody else's gauge go that high?

Post by **DreamN** » Sat May 02, 2009 9:25 am

Well, my fuel gauge needle has always moved to the full spot when full. It'll go slightly over it. Issue I have is not that the needle doesn't move, but empty = 1/8th of the fuel gauge and full equals 9/8th on the fuel gauge. Works fine aside from not being 100% accurate. Fuel light even comes on.

Didn't know you guys were having issues with the needle not actually moving or just going half way.

Definitely double check your wiring.

Post by **disepyon** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:55 pm

Sorry for bringing this old thread up, but i find it unnecessary to start my own, better to keep information of the same topic to one thread.

So i just got done connecting the wires up for this type x gauge cluster and went to test it out. I did not permanently solder the wires, just twisted them and taped them up for testing. Everything works and all the meters read like they should be.

I went off this diagram posted by the original poster and also gathered information from this thread he also made:

My Problem is: I cant seem to get and figure out how to get my illumination lighting to work, such as when i press the illuminating light button to dim the lights, it wont dim it down. Seems to just stay on bright, same goes for my lighting on my a/c and heater control system. When i plug back in my original gauge cluster and wiring, it works.

Now i have a question for something else:when looking at the diagram, I want to know what pin #24 usdm labeled as green wire under x8 does? With out it every thing works fine, or so it seems.

Another thing to note:The blue bulbs that came with mine that are for the clock and mileage did not work, so what i did is took two random brown bulbs of the same size off my original gauge cluster and put them it. It works, But not sure why. The blue bulbs look fine. Maybe someone might know?

Also, how would i check to see if my check engine light goes off, so i know it works? since this cluster does not have one, i wired mine up based on that diagram, to the overheat catalisor light (x11). On the diagram it says NC for no Connected for this, but i went ahead and connected it, i dont see why not.

The only wires that are not hook up is pin #1 (washer) and pin #3 (cruise) from the usdm and also that one wire i mentioned above. My gauge cluster did come with a harness so i am using that to connect to the usdm harness. All the pin's off the type x harness are connected, just the usdm that have those two unused. The only thing that i did different from the diagram is i connected pin #X30 to Pin #4 (cruise ground) for grounding to keep the airbag light off.

Post by **disepyon** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 10:20 pm

Got my cluster hooked up and everything put back.

Solved my problems. Everything seems to be working fine so far for me.

All that is left is me waiting for the s14 speed and temp sensor to come in and install so i can drive.

Pictures for people that are viewing this thread for later on in the future.

Post by **whowutwut** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 4:20 am

awesome! looks great! glad you fixed your problems. sorry I couldn't help. it's been so long since i swapped it, it was all a blur.

do you not have much gas in your tank for the gas light to come on? I've just been filling my car every 200km or so, just to be safe. not sure how accurate the gas gauge is.

Post by **disepyon** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:30 am

whowutwut wrote:awesome! looks great! glad you fixed your problems. sorry I couldn't help. it's been so long since i swapped it, it was all a blur.

do you not have much gas in your tank for the gas light to come on? I've just been filling my car every 200km or so, just to be safe. not sure how accurate the gas gauge is.

yes i am on empty. I made sure i was on empty with my original cluster so i know. The needle seems to be a little off from the empty line, however my original gauge was a little off to. The gas light didnt come on until it went below the empty line. Once i get the sensor in from the mail and installed, ill go fill her up and let you know how it turns out for me.

Post by **White Comet** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 11:18 am

hey i finally got around to plugging in my cluster and giving everything a try. there might still be some grounds in my electrical system to take care of so this might just be an issue that will resolve once i finish my wiring, but does anyone else have the hicas light ever coem on? i only turned the key to acc sicne the engien isnt ready to fire but the hicas light stayed on teh whole time.

Post by **disepyon** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 8:37 am

Alright folks, Got done installing my speed sensor and temp sensor. Everything works out perfectly, the odo reads right. After the installations of the sensors i went and got gas at shell station. What do you know, my gas gauge reads right. This is how my original gauge read when on full too. For those of you that are having trouble, i have no idea what you guys are doing wrong.

Next update will be pictures with LEDS, just waiting on them in the mail now. I spent about 80 bucks on LEDS.

here is the site: https://www.superbrightleds.com/index.htm

Post by **White Comet** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:35 pm

sooooooo no one can answer my question?

Post by **disepyon** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:51 pm

Is your car equipped with hicas or did you remove it or never had it?

Some more pictures, Forgot to take some with the high beam indicator light on.

Post by **White Comet** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:53 pm

my car's a base model zenki, never had hicas

Post by **DreamN** » Wed Nov 18, 2009 6:39 pm

You wired your cluster wrong. No reason your HICAS light should be on since you shouldn't have it wired in to begin with. Go back and check your wiring as I guarantee you you've made at least one mistake.

White Comet wrote:my car's a base model zenki, never had hicas

Post by **chalmer240sx** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 8:36 pm

SpeedRacer1 wrote:End result...

oh s*** everything glows

Post by **DreamN** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 10:36 pm

For those still having fuel gauge issues:

Double check your wiring is the first thing you should do.

Manually adjusting the fuel needle is the solution to your problem For whatever reason some kouki clusters fuel gauge needles aren't accurate. This could be due to mishandling of the product without the front protective plastic.

I found this out seeing as I've done 5 kouki gauge cluster installs now and 2 were perfect while the other 3 (my first) needed to be adjusted manually. No wiring issues or bending of anything.

Simply top off your tank. Take out your cluster (don't disconnect) and adjust the needle manually till it stays at the fuel level. Easy as that. By simple trial and error you'll begin to figure out how much you need to turn (counter clockwise) your needle to get to the full mark.

This is a great shot of where your needle should be at when full. If you prefer a little lower that's fine.

disepyon, good work bro. glad you figured out the answers to your wiring questions. looks great and please take pictures of the cluster with the led bulbs. I've been thinking of doing the same, but I am still not decided if it would actually be worth the change considering we have pitiful 74 wedge bulbs as our main bulbs rather than the 194 base bulbs on regular s13 models.

Been tinkering with the idea of converting the slot to fit 194s, but maybe on a spare one that isn't in the best of condition.

Post by **whowutwut** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 2:45 pm

Hey DreamN, Interesting info! I need to find some time to take the cluster back out, it's a pain.... What exactly are you adjusting? Are you taking off the front plastic and moving the needle itself? or is there something you are turning... you mention counter clockwise. Is is something on the back of the gauge cluster?

Kouki Type-X Cluster Wiring Help

Re: (DreamN)

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