Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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Disabled the calipers to get the piston out, but no chance. put on a grease press but didnt move a mm.
Tommey said he had S13 calippers for me so gonna just use those.

Even gave it a go with dry ice and some fin lube but nope :)

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Izento
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I thought you were suppose to put an air compressor to the brake line hole?

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sjbsuperman1425
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If it's seized you mind as well replace it. Most times the aftermarket replacement have a lifetime warranty on them anyways.

kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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Okey, so I havent updated here in a while, and to be honest I havent done alot recently.

But I got some new calipers from Tommey, but they where for the smaller brakes and mine had 280mm from factory, so it wouldent fit the brake pads, so I had to use that part of the caliper from my old ones.

I allso had issues with the car to make it run properly, figured out I had a massive leak in the BOV, so I removed it. the previous owner had a garage made T piece for the bov, the whole IC piping looks abit ghetto but I will change it for the new engine when I get that far. Car stil dosent run great, but im gonna go over everything with start gas and soap water to look for any leaks.

But I found out that my oil leak wich I thourt was from the back of the oil pan was comming from further up on the engine, probebly the shaft seal to the crankshaft. So will take out the engine and check it

I allso dipped the block for the 600whp engine in caustic soda for some days to get rid of all dirt and rust, washed it clean and sprayed oil on it to prevent rust, I got my moroso blockfiller yesterday :)

On this picture I simply just removed the BOV and plugged the hole to see if it would run better, and it did.

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Brought the T-piece to work

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Did someone say home made?

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Cut of the "T"

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Found a plate to weld on it

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welded

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This is only a temporary salution, I will throw this away for new IC piping later for the new engine like I said before.




Block ready for acid.

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After acid and sprayed in oil

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Block filler :)

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A friend of mine allso bought a S13 this summer, it was a white pignose when he bought it, then he put on the S15 front and painted it black.

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kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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Last weekend I was visting Tommey, gave him my block so he can machine it when he has time. Gonna go with RB26 head studs.

I allso bought some parts today, new exhaust and intake manifoild.

The exhaust is 304L steinless steel, the intake is made of 6082 aluminium with billet full radius runners

To show of the turbo placement.

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Izento
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That vband manifold! Looks like a dream!

Buddyworm
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That Lehman-style intake is bad@$$. Although I'm not sure what the deal is with that 90 with piecuts on it coming off the manifold in that last shot... Is it part of the intake? We require moar pics!!!

Did you fab that intake up yourself?

Would love to see some back to back dyno testing with the lehman vs. stock vs. CPC or the like.

tommey
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2009 12:12 pm
Car: S13 ca18det

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He has not made it himself.
The piecuts are because of a lack of a mandrel bent pipe.
Maybe Kim will replace it.

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float_6969
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The piecut piece is the intake for the turbo. It's nothing to do with the intake manifold. It'll be interesting to see how that manifold does. They're supposed to be great for even flow and low to midrange and responsiveness.

kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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Thanks guys ! :) Will post more pictures when I pick up the parts. Im heading up there around christmas time.

Got my block fitted for RB26 bolts.

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kimandre92
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Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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So Tommey machined my engine now, ready for honing. He bored it to 83.44 mm and my pistons are 83.5.

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A picture of the concrete !

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kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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Small update:

I made some bushings for Tommey to use for the stressplate / block to hone it. They are 22.13-22.14mm in diameter.

I bought a power bond under drive balancer, gonna machine it tomorrow to fit a trigger wheel for the ignition.

I was at Tommy's place to deliver some parts and pick up the intake manifoild last month, I wanted to get some stuff fixed on the exhaust manifoild since I wasnt happy with the velds.

Here are some moar pics like requested, hope you enjoy! :D

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float_6969
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Making good progress!

kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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Yea its fun to see its comming together, Float :)

Machined the underdrive balancer to fit the trigger wheel today, and Tommy made me a drawing so I can get it made at work.

Here are some more pictures :)

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It had 0,09mm runout when I mounted it in the Lathe, thats the best I could do :)

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After the machining the underdrive balancer it looked like this.

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Needed to mesure for Tommy to make a drawing for the trigger wheel

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tommey
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I think you are doing everything right Kim.
Nice to see a build in wich i agree on almost everything.

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themadscientist
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There's something strangely beautiful about a freshly machined engine block.

kimandre92
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Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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Nice to hear that Tommy ! :)

It sure is scientist :)

Got the trigger wheel machined today, heateted it and put it on the underdrive balancer :)

Gonna send it to Tommey tomorrow so he can balance the crank with the OS Giken clutch & flywheel

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float_6969
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Is there also a cam sensor on this EMS? I just noticed your timing wheel isn't missing a tooth.

kimandre92
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Yes, its syncronized with the cam :)

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Izento
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So, what does a trigger wheel do? From my understanding, it replaces the CAS, so that your cams can follow the rotation of your crankshaft. But....why not just use the CAS? Sorry, I just don't know too much about trigger wheels. Beginners question.

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float_6969
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Most EMS's that use a crank driven trigger wheel use a missing tooth strategy. The sensor that is used for trigger wheels senses the distance from a ferrous object and this creates a high/low frequency. Then when they hit the area where there is a missing tooth, the EMS correlates this as being some set distance from TDC. So basically you tell the EMS that the trigger wheel has, lets say, 24 teeth, minus 1 tooth for the sync (or TDC location). It can then "count" the teeth to know the position of the crankshaft. It will then fire the ignition coils at the correct time. The issue with this strategy is that it makes sequential ignition impossible. The EMS has no way of knowing if the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. This is where wasted spark ignitions come into play. Cylinders are fired in pairs, both on the injectors and the ignition. This is a simple and robust system, but has limitations as well. Other EMS's use a cam signal. This is what Nissan does with the CAS. Same basic principal as before, only it uses a slotted disk with a light emitter on one side and a light sensor on the other side, this creates a similar signal to the trigger tooth signal, but since it's cam driven, it knows if the engine is at TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke. This allows for sequential injection and ignition. The drawback to a cam driven sensor is lash in the cam driving system. Unless it's gear driven, there's slight changes in the relationship between the cams and the crankshaft in belt and chain driven cam systems. To deal with this, some EMS's use both sensors (not just stand alones, my Mazdaspeed Protege uses both a cam and crank sensor). They use the very accurate crank angle signal from the trigger wheel and the sync signal from the CAS to allow for sequential injection and ignition with all of the pro's of both types of systems and none of the drawbacks. The only real con with that type of system is complexity, but it's really not all that much more complex with today's technology.

kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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A small update:

Built a loft to store car parts so I would have more space on the ground floor. Went abit short on materials so dont have any support on the floor where the walls are, gonna buld that next week.

My engine is allso leaking oil between the engine and gear box, so gonna take it out and change the seal so it dosent leak.

It dosent run so good eather, has a high ide and it accelerates slowly when I drive, even in 1st gear. So wanna check the markings on the timing belt, the half moon on the CAS and clean the AFM.

Allso want to clean up the engine bay when the engine is out.

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float_6969
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Pulling the trans to replace the rear main seal is WAAYYY less work than pulling the engine.

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Izento
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It took me 10 hours to do my clutch....albeit that was my first time ever doing a clutch. Mounting the transmission back up was the hardest part.

kimandre92
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Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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It might be less work, but I dont have any good lifting equipment so dont wanna work to much under the car Float :)

Yea this is allso my first time pulling a engine :)

Took the head from the other engine to work on Friday and disassembled it :)

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kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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So I've been lazy and not working on the car recently.. but today I decided to pull the engine!

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I thourt it was the seal for the crank that was leaking when I went under the car with a flash light to inspect, aperantly I was wrong.

It was the previous owner of the engine that had the bottom pan of and didnt get the seal for it back in place when he mounted it so it was leaking oil..

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kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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So went down to my garage again today, removed the oil pan to change the leaking seal.
I decided to remove the exaust elbow, sicne i have a Apex 3'' OEM fit one its gonna make it alot easier for me later when im going for a bigger exhaust then stock.

I allso figured I wanted to test fit my over fenders and rear wheel to see fitment, even tho I decided a while ago to change to 5-lug.

Enjoy.



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kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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So now im waiting for new bolts to the flywheel so I can put the engine back together and put it back in the car!
Removed the air duct over the CD player in the car to fit a plate with gauges. Took out the air duct to seal it. Then it wont blow on my gauges.

I also have some bigger news! I ordered a turbo!
I decided to go with a Borg Warner EFR 7670 with V-band exhaust housing and external WG :woot:

kimandre92
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:32 pm
Car: RS13.5 (CA18DET)

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I decided to remove the front bumper, I wasnt satisfied with my overall fitting. Gonna make new mounts for the inter cooler since it was hold by perforated strip and one screw and it dosent fit directly on the S15 bar.

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I allso ordered new flywheel bolts because the old one had broken threads, when I got the new ones I noticed that the tread was different. The previous owner of my engine forced normal M10 bolts in there, I dont know how he made it, so I had to order a M10x1.0 tap to refresh the therad.

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Anyone know what this is? Its in the corner on the firewall on the passanger side. None of the wires was connected to anything, and it was hooked up with a switch inside the car. So I just removed it.

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Going to seal this air vent to put in gagues

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Should be able to find a cable to connect some of the new gagues here ;)

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Allso I got my hands on a Z32 transmission, fitted for CA18!

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float_6969
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Great progress!


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