key light no start. (after 1 failed start)

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
new06m35influv
Posts: 26
Joined: Fri May 29, 2020 3:43 am
Car: '06 M35 Sport Edition

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Sorry had to get the car towed back home and get home and buncha things. Couple beers & alot of cussing lol. So when I was looking at voltage on the BCM. Pin 52 had low voltage. Which runs through 1 fuse from the battery to the BCM. So checked the fusible link wiggling it back and forth gently and noticed voltage change. Started looking closer the 90 degree angle on it from the fusible links had hairline fracture where had been over flexed at some time. So replaced it. Car tried to start only 1 turn then everything died again. checked fusible link and the 140 amp fuse had blown. So I looked through diagram went to checking and pulling starter for a couple reasons but only direct connect + to - going to draw that much. It was fried. Will put reason or theory further down in post. So replaced it with a new one as well as another fusible link of course. Started and ran better than ever. pretty sure because the ECM full reset that was done. Decided to go for a drive made it to Sonic about 15 minutes away no issues everything was great. Started up perfect started to head to grocery store from there. About another 35 minutes down the road fro there. About 10 minutes into that drive car just shut off. Busy road was able to hit neutral and push the start button everything came back maybe about 5min @ most happened again was able to do that one more time. this is because no where to pull over for long stretch on this road. And before I could get pulled over did it again. This time same result as the very 1st issue dead in the water. Same exact thing key light and everything dead besides brake light. Exactly same symptoms as when we started this. So was able to push it off the road. And not into the lake that was beside me. Little too much of an incline towards the lake right there. Checked and the 140 amp blown again. Bypassed it with insulated handle screwdriver just to see. Starter tried 1 turn/click then was done.Fried again

Okay sorry wanted to try to get all details in there.
Now Theory. Have had a valve cover oil leak for a little while that just hadn't had the time to spend six hours replacing. I know and definitely could see how oil soaked first starter was. Definitely could see how that would have happened. And was oil in the grey connector and on posts seems as soaked as the starter was had been leaking since before I bought it. When I installed my new starter I cleaned everything up OCD Style soaked it in contact cleaner used a half of a can at least. (Never mentioned but R&D technical supervisor for 5 years and 8 years at the same place electrical engineering technologist and mechanical engineering technologist rebuilding helping design and brought all manufacturing in house and set up every electrical test. everything electrical and mechanical especially all electrical and lots of circuit boards for mwd measurement while Drilling, down-hole Directional instrumentations) only put that in there and 2 really stressed the fact it I OCD cleaned that whole area and all electrical . Anyways ordered my parts to do the valve covers. Now looking at the new starter that I pulled off. Don't have any oil between the studs that's on it. Nor the grey connector where it plugs together. Looks really clean. But on the grey connector. @ the back of the one coming from the car. Has oil on it and doesn't look like the factory boot/seal that's on the back of it is the greatest.
Haven't had a chance to look at the diagram and see exactly what all the grey connector runs to.

Just kind of hard for me to swallow that it happened that quickly this time and without seeming to have any oil Invasion especially in comparison. Please let me know if all this makes sense tried to read through it twice as still stuck with doing this on phone at this time. Here in just a few going to try to upload some pics and probably take the new starter apart and see if I see any oil or broke isolation possibly to cheap MFG.

If I can find reassurance with all this that this is going to fix my problem.(I know only 1 way of doing that)But
While I was doing valve covers was wanting to order and add throttle body spacer cold air intake headers test pipes and possibly plenum spacer. As so much easier to do all that it wants since the valve cover is it PIA for leaking gasket. Once again if I can rebuild my confidence. That this is my issue. So being very optimistic had 1 morequestion. If I am able to get to do that would I have to add a chip and a tune. Or able to just reset everything and get away with it for now. Or svc light going to drive me up the wall. Until more money in the pocket and find a good chip & tuner down here.( I know seem to be kind of jumping the gun but like to gather all data research and knowledge as possible while on my mind) Is the plenum spacer worth the price. As in big gain. Or better to put that $ towards something else like a better throttle body ECT. as they seem very proud of an aluminum spacer.


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Ilya
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Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Charlotte, NC
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That's a helluva issue. But seems like you may have at least narrowed it down some.

I personally wouldn't get a 'chip'...I don't trust any of them. Many people here are UpRev tune'ed though (including me). I ran a throttle body and plenum spacer + UpRev on my 07 M35x. Great combo with the Z-Tube intake and cat back exhaust.

new06m35influv
Posts: 26
Joined: Fri May 29, 2020 3:43 am
Car: '06 M35 Sport Edition

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Yeah I would have to find a good chip and don't trust tuners down here. I haven't learned enough about it yet myself. So it'd be a little while before be able to do that part. Just found a good deal on test pipes and headers from someone local used. So wasn't doing the full cat back yet and I like the cars kind of quiet to an extent. Unlike my 86 GMC. Still waiting on the other stuff to come in to fix the valve cover leak. Changing all hoses clamps. Wire loom covers Clips to hold them down into the motor. Spark plugs coil packs. Other than the maintenance I've done since I've had it owners before me don't think they did anything. Anything I can do while I'm there since it's such an extensive job to replace valve covers. That's why I was wondering if the plenum spacer really made it worth it. And with adding everything and getting rid of cats am I going to be fine with all air fuel mixtures ect. to not set any codes off.

new06m35influv
Posts: 26
Joined: Fri May 29, 2020 3:43 am
Car: '06 M35 Sport Edition

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Sorry kind of drifted in subject there. Both starters actually still work when set aside and tested with the battery. So I have a couple 150 amp fuses for my old audio setup. Going to use for testing were don't have to keep replacing fusible link. Don't have any good idea on how to test the current draw on the starter except for if the fuse blows. If just test it on the ground without the stall of the motor going to get 500 something amps of course. So last night started pulling wire. Checking to see if any is touching chassis.Or nics in them. Checking cables for loose connections and corrosion. Cleaning terminal ends redoing ground to chassis from battery and probably adding an extra one over to motor 2 have direct connect.

new06m35influv
Posts: 26
Joined: Fri May 29, 2020 3:43 am
Car: '06 M35 Sport Edition

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I've also seen what someone was calling a ground upgrade they kept all the same ones in place but they added a thicker wire with new Loops running all around the motor to those individual small looped grounds thats there. Just kind of weird to me that I didn't have any other fuses blown. And thinking about the shut off out of nowhere when I was going down the road and was able to hit neutral and push the push button Tuan and tire back up and go. Before died again and no restart.blown fuse. Not seeing any winces drops and power everything staying powered up nicely. No parasitic drains no significant connections when ohming out hot wire to chassis or motor. Only thing blows is the 140 amp. Schematic shows it only going to starter and charging. The other connections run through a lower fuse before it gets to that fuse.


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