I recently bought a 1995 240sx ka24de 5 speed, I had bought with the thought in mind to do a swap. But in turn decide to rebuild the ka and boost it. And yes I am a noob to the s14, but I know about building v8s. So any tips about rebuilding the ka to handle some boost, would be nice. I have the factory service manual for tear down and rebuild.

rods:eagle or crower / pauter or carillo if you're baller
Pistons: CP/Wiseco - They both take care of the tendancy for the ringlands to let go, choice depends on if you can live with piston slap (CP) when its cold
bearings: clevite/king/callico - seems ot be a toss up, I like clevite
Main/headstuds: ARP HW (no brainer) - there are oversized headstud options (AMS - SL1) if you plan on runnign tons of boost
Oil pump: OEM nissan, do not f*** around with ebay imitators
Timing set: see above
HG: cometic or cosworth MLS / or felpro OEM if you're under 400 hp (Make sure you have the upper and lower covers machined with the block - if you dont, you could have sealing issues, especially with the MLS gaskets.

Like baking a cake - search any of the above set ups, and you should find all the info you need.

Thanks

Don't forget Carrillo rods!

I went with eagle rods an wiseco pistions no slap eather. And a bc head kit with 20psi rus great an puts down 400whp has a jwt tune

Got some news for anybody building a KA24DE, i recently bought a set of main bearings which are .25mm over sized part number Clevite MS-1949 P and found out the thrust bearing flanges are way too thick and doesn't allow the crank to spin freely, and i have ordered a new set part# MS/2080P these bearings fit very well.

Thanks Razi,

updated the above short list - also you should measure everything to the FSM values, you want to run on the loose side of factory specs for all bearing tolerances, and follow the piston manufacturers build sheet for piston to bore tolerance. More horsepower equals more heat, and more thermal expanseion for all of the rotating components. I've seen more than a few build threads where the motor was built to the tight side of tolerances and proptly threw a bearing once everything swelled up and got a bit too tight.

Also opinions vary, but if you search you'll find boost friendly ring gap specs to properly file fit you new rings.

He is def right about the bearings needing to be a bit lose i am rebuliding the lower end on my kat and beleave this was part of them failing.