Yep has spark and fuel, and I did a compression test running about 140 in all 4 cylinders.macgiver wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 7:24 pmThe FIRST thing you must have is KOMPRESSUN ........AND spark.......AND fuel then the ability to crank , which you got along with , you say you have spark and fuel ,correct ?
Do a proper KOMPRESSUN test , have you ever done one ?? Some people make the mistake of leaving butterflies closed , or the mistake of NOT removing ignition fuse AND f/pump fuse ( f/p relay Ok) , huh?
Did the test just like you stated. Whenever I tested for spark I felt and smelled the fuel on my spark plugs. And no starting fluid doesn't do anything.macgiver wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 7:32 pmwow , ...We have almost simultaneous exchanges ....SO did you do like I mentioned ??
I mean 140 aint bad I don't know the motor , but see IF 'n your plugs (ALL) are getting wet/moist with fuel ? LIke if you assume 'rail' pressure only , is good , gotta enter the chamber ya know?
Also starting fluid DOES'NT start it ? Don't know at this point what more to say kinda .
To test for spark all I did was put the plug in the coilpack and touch it to the valve cover looking for a white spark. I will try step 3 first thing tomorrow. What numbers should I be looking for?macgiver wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 7:51 pmI bet there maybe something your 'missing' in the spark department.....some questions :
1 ) "HOW" are you seeing spark ? With a sparkplug body grounded laying on engine & HV wire OR coilpack connected proper ?
2 ) Test ALL plugs , wires/coilpacks SAME WAY ?
3 ) measure with a VOM (multimeter) the resistance between plug tip and top , (body NOT touched here!)
Do #3 on ALL plugs FIRST actually , say before sreps 1 and 2 , ya know?
Really hoping that I didn't get a revenge car, but I won't be able to find out til possibly tomorrow since it decided to sleet all day. Just my luck also really wish I could say it was bad starter fluid but it was a brand new can that I bought that day...macgiver wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 8:16 pmResistor plugs , if that's what you got (probly) are generally 5,000ohms (5k ohm) give or take a couple thousand due to Brand's slightly different mfr. OR there will always be like 5% tolerance differences I've seen.
Now , here's the WEIRD PART , way out there , your talk'in to macgiver now ...
But listen to this scenario:
You got a car that JUST SO HAPPENS TO NEED F/PUMP?????? hmmmmmm
You need to check that gas in there , like very VERY SAFELEY take gas from as close to engine as possible ,gather like 2-3 ounces in jar ,put that gas on ground clear of ANYTHING , then safely light it, seriuosly , ya need to see the ignitability of your freakin gasoline IN THERE !
Some bastard may have put something into the tank & forced the prior owner to sell ....TO YOU !!!!!!
I'm NO chemist , but I believe if gas smells like gas , the " walk like-a duck-smell-like -duck ..." won't work ? Right ? See IF that damn gas is easily ignitable , I hope ya didn't buy a car that had a "Pay-back" done to it
Maybe the starter fluid is old , does Ether break down ..........??? Thirty years ago , I now remember , I beleive it was starting fluid like 4+ years old and it didn't smell 'strong' and left WATER behind , really .....SH!!TT
Okay so I like to second guess myself a lot, and thankfully I did but I did a second compression test and I found out that cyl 3 is at 80psi. So now that I know that what are some good swaps? Or is it worth going na-t?macgiver wrote: ↑Wed Feb 23, 2022 4:52 pmBrand new can was what I wanted to suggest too , kinda unfortunately (didn't work) you used new. Be carefull too with starter fluid , it can hammer piston , rod bearings (less so large crank journal bearing).
What you should try , now , is stop fuel by fuse or f/p relay removal , w/well-charged battery crank for solid 4-5 sec.'s , wait 20sec's crank again for 4-5 sec's you've pumped oil @ decent pressure reaching the ROD BEARINGS ! Make careful note of sounds of this cranking. NOW put fuse back and do the "starter fluid thing" and see if " you mean to tell me" your getting NO combustion ? NO stumble bump firing ? Does the cranking seem NO different than when you primed the bearings ???
Always ALWAYS 1 ) have hose turned on ,nearby 2 ) have Fire extiguisher nearby , 3 ) MOST important have car readily able to be pushed into street IF ya catch fire ( carport , garaged , close to house here? ) Keeping in Neutral + 1 blocked wheel , or easy handbrake release fine too .
Starting fluid=explosive and is the biggest mystery that it hasn't seemed to work