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Where and what is the PAIR valve?

i've been through all the threads, done everything i know to do, but my 89' KA24(E) still runs like s@*t! the iacv aac cleaning was my last step. that being done my car goes down the road alot better, throttle response has improved, but it is still hard starting cold and hot, and will not idle. does anyone have any ideas? it is my first tuner project and i know nothing about these cars.

I just bought a new AICV online. I changed all vacuum lines and I did use the AICV gasket. The 2 plugs---FICD and the AICV solenoid fit fine. Now the car has more torque and runs smoothly. Bouncing idle can be the MAF. About $40 on ebay

CrypticScorpio wrote:Ghetto way to clean iavc is.

step 1. start carstep 2. while having a friend rev engine, partially remove the 2ND (bigger of the 2 hoses) right beside eachother on your intake(stock - going from engine to airbox) step 3. if you have managed to keep car running while pulling it PARTIALLY OFF then continue if not restartstep 4. spray a **** load of throttle body cleaner in there and reatach hose while keeping engine running. repeat as needed

still like ur method though but it takes tools <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/image ... squint.gif" BORDER="0"> ol lady took mine <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/image ... /anger.gif" BORDER="0"> but hey no better reason then to go buy more <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/image ... iggrin.gif" BORDER="0">

So can anyone back this up? Not to say your a liar CrypticScorpio but just the way you worded it made me second guess the integrity of this solution. Im thinking about doing this before actually taking off the IACV and doing a good thorough cleaning. I have a 98 with about 120k on it and it only idles rough sometimes, esp after beating on it, so Im wondering if its not that bad where just spraying it through the tube would be enough to fix it.

when I unplug the maf at idle the engine dies, but i can keep it running and it only revs to about 2500 rpms. so i asume that the maf is working properly, but i don't know much about these cars, most of my mechanical experience is on american V8's, without maf's lol.

Hate to bump an old thread, but since its important...

I recently replaced ALL vacuum hoses and cleaned a bunch of stuff, including this valve. It should be emphasized here that the brass set screw which retains the spring for the plunger must be resecured with threadlocker or epoxy. Here's why:

Yesterday, I was driving back from the post office and Advance Auto. I had just picked up some epoxy to smear over the head of the screw because it kept backing out. I pulled up to a stop sign, and the engine stopped running. I had to drive home with my foot on the gas the entire way to keep the engine on. That damned screw, and the spring behind it, were gone. Good luck finding them if it happens, they come from Nissan as part of the IACV-AAC.

Just thought I'd share. I got lucky and found someone parting out his KA.

vancouverbc wrote:anybody else order a new iacv and find that the plugs are incompatible with their harness.

This just happened to me any input on what happened would be appreciated, my harness has staple clips for both the iacv and regulator but the new iacv has snap clips???

nicgriff wrote:

vancouverbc wrote:anybody else order a new iacv and find that the plugs are incompatible with their harness.

This just happened to me any input on what happened would be appreciated, my harness has staple clips for both the iacv and regulator but the new iacv has snap clips???

i just returned it and never replaced it. courtesy parts lists what iacv is for what year. if i recall, there are even different ones in the same year depending on month.

I need some help. I did my 5 speed conversion but during the conversion i broke the FICD soleniod and got it replaced. But i have problem know. When i start the car it die if i dont touch the throttle or if its warm day the thorttle jump pretty bad for 5 seconds or so. I got the idle adjusted to 750ish but know its back up at 900. Second problem is that when im in gear i can never be under 2k?

S3t0_S13 wrote:Is there a gasket or washer between the unit and the manifold???

Yes there is. It's very thin and pink. Mine fell somewhere in the intake manifold mess, so I have to go back for it later. If you're missing yours, I don't think it'll make much of a difference, though.

Removing the IACV isn't as hard as I thought it'd be, but that's only because I "figured it out". I'll post pictures and a description for people in the future.

//

How do I go about removing the screws to disassemble it? They're [rusted] in tight and threatening to strip. I don't even care if they strip, as long as I can get them out and find some different screws. Even the big brass one and smaller one next to it won't budge and are getting marked up.

Also, is it ok that I cleaned it out with throttle body cleaner with it still assembled?

My car's a 93' btw, so this is the first time in 17 years that it's been cleaned...

EDIT: I got the screws off with PB Blaster and some hammer knocks. Screwed right out. One of them's almost stripped, so I'll source a screw tomorrow to replace it.
Still need to get out the brass screw, idle adjustment screw, and the big hex nut thing.

I reinstalled my IACV, and now my car's bogging at idle. What do?
I've got it at ~750rpms, but it's fluctuating from like 725-775 and when I'm in drive the car bucks.

EDIT: My water pump isn't working, so this might not be IACV related (car idles great until car starts to warm up, then it overheats. Coolent in the radiator isn't moving with the cap off.)

great topic ;yes man is very easy to remove the IACV (i have long fingers ) but why s13 and s14 plugs are no the same .still working or not .