I've changed my mind and now ther's no turning back!

1972-1979 Datsun 620 forums. All 620-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
strollpatrol620
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:08 am
Car: 76' 620 long bed, 85' 720 nap-z

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I bought me my first 76' 620 single cab long bed about 2 years ago on plans to restore it, I mean this thing was a real rust bucket. I sand blasted the whole body and welded in a ton of sheet metal and formed it to perfict shape. Then I got an Idea to turn it into a allout drag racer. I striped out every thing that was in it or what was left that wasent much the engine was allready locked the tranny was sold for $300 I've kept all the parts I would need to complete this project. I removed the bed, chopped the rear frame off and welded in a racing fram with a short'n ford 9'' rear end. I droped in a Ford performance 545 bigblock with and enine plate insted of motor mounts. Trough in a c6 tranny with a 3000stall converter, custom made the drive shaft and redid all brake lines and made my own wiring harness. It's still a work in progress but I'm aiming to go in the 8's on all motor with this baybe. By the way I kept the body in stock codition except for the hood do to the fact that I'm running a tunnle ram intake with 2 demon carbs


67 411
Posts: 199
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 8:52 am
Car: 1967 datsun 411 sss wagon 1975 datsun 620 king cab 4x4 and a 1971 521

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if you can iwould love to see some pics, im thinking of running a small block in my 620. what kind of motor plate did you run. i really would like some pics plzzzzzz!

User avatar
Charlie69
Posts: 256
Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2008 6:01 pm
Car: 1966 Datsun 520
Location: Tolleson AZ

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Please post up more pictures and information. motor mod,s brake mods, frame mods, oh hell we want it all

strollpatrol620
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:08 am
Car: 76' 620 long bed, 85' 720 nap-z

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I got the front and mid engine plates from jegs, the mid engine plate came with a crank spacer an a bit longer tranny bolts. The total price was about $200 when it was all said and done. keep in mind, this is for strict racing purposes only! If your planning to drive it on the street its better to get solid motor mounts. Well right now my frame is getting welded professionally and is getting a mild roll chage installed in it. When I get it back I'll send some pics
Modified by strollpatrol620 at 5:25 AM 1/7/2010

strollpatrol620
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:08 am
Car: 76' 620 long bed, 85' 720 nap-z

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O! and another thing, I got a front drum to disc brake conversion kit on ebay for about $150+tax . I only bought the caliper mounting brackets, all the other parts was about $15 total at your nearest junk yard, wich was the calipers and rotors. If you had the money you can get the whole brake kit for about $500+tax, that pretty much includes the calipers & mounting brackets, pads, rotors and a couple of brake lines and bolts. The only 2 ways you can get a disc brake conversion is to buy it from ebay or find a 78-79 620 and yank out the brakes.

strollpatrol620
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:08 am
Car: 76' 620 long bed, 85' 720 nap-z

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The reasion why I said engine mounts are better for street use is because you can run your factory alternator, power steering pump, fan pully, and or a/c on the engine. if you add an engine plate you might have belt alignment issues to deal with. The only thing Im runing in front of the engine plate is an electric water pump, No alt.,P/S, or a/c. For drags only!!!


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