I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
Yasko
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If you weld your open differential (S14) then realize you don't like it. Can you then take out the welded and buy a 2way and drop it in? or is it once it's welded it's welded?


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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
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Once it's welded, it's welded.

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nismoracingsx
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Car: 1993 White 240sx Coupe
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Yay, new question! Hrm, ok, I need to know how big the opening in the dome light cavity is. I want to stick one of these
http://www.oznium.com/led-dome in there. I'm kind of like forever away from my 240 :( so I can't measure it or I would.
Thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yasko wrote:If you weld your open differential (S14) then realize you don't like it. Can you then take out the welded and buy a 2way and drop it in? or is it once it's welded it's welded?
You'd have to swap out the pumpkin.

Yasko
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So this is my 96 240sx Engine bay, I am just wondering if anything looks weird to you or if something is missing? At first the intake looked weird, but I figured it's just stock. (I looked through a ton of engine bay pics but couldnt really find any S14's with stock intakes to compare). I know I'm missing a battery tie down and a retaining clip for the intake, but other than that does everything look in check?

Image

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Looks pretty normal to me...

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KYZAAC
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Car: 92 240sx SR

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is $100 shipped a good price for a hicas p/s pump and bracket?

i want my a/c to work when i swap the sr, i know alot of ppl swap the compressor from the ka, but the a/c never worked since i had the car, is there a way to test if its the comprressor or not?
and the ppl that keep the sr compressor get the a/c lines welded, what lines do they use to extend, i never got any a/c lines with the sr. pics would help if possible

odmoht
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would anyone happen to know someone that widens barrels?
in socal only please.

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nismoracingsx
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nismoracingsx wrote:Yay, new question! Hrm, ok, I need to know how big the opening in the dome light cavity is. I want to stick one of these
http://www.oznium.com/led-dome in there. I'm kind of like forever away from my 240 :( so I can't measure it or I would.
Thanks

Bump, nobody has 5 minutes to measure that mofo? =p

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
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nismoracingsx wrote:Bump, nobody has 5 minutes to measure that mofo? =p
My car no longer has that mofo, haha... or it would've been done.
KYZAAC wrote:is $100 shipped a good price for a hicas p/s pump and bracket?

i want my a/c to work when i swap the sr, i know alot of ppl swap the compressor from the ka, but the a/c never worked since i had the car, is there a way to test if its the comprressor or not?
and the ppl that keep the sr compressor get the a/c lines welded, what lines do they use to extend, i never got any a/c lines with the sr. pics would help if possible
That's a little more than I would pay for a used one... it's not unreasonable though. That's a hard part to get ahold of I hear.

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KYZAAC
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Car: 92 240sx SR

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yea i thought it seemed high too, wasnt sure tho, anyway found a hicas pump and bracket even swap for a non hicas p/s reservoir.

Any info about the air conditioning? my ka a/c never worked, is that because the compressor is shot for sure or is there anything else to check for?

how do i extend the a/c lines to bolt up to the sr compressor? where can i get the lines to be added to the original? is it just tubing that i can get at the auto parts store? how much neets to be added? any help will be great

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PapaSmurf2k3
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odmoht wrote:would anyone happen to know someone that widens barrels?
in socal only please.
what? Wrong forum dude...
KYZAAC wrote:yea i thought it seemed high too, wasnt sure tho, anyway found a hicas pump and bracket even swap for a non hicas p/s reservoir.

Any info about the air conditioning? my ka a/c never worked, is that because the compressor is shot for sure or is there anything else to check for?

how do i extend the a/c lines to bolt up to the sr compressor? where can i get the lines to be added to the original? is it just tubing that i can get at the auto parts store? how much neets to be added? any help will be great
Unfortunately AC not working could be one or multiple things... and there really isn't one stand-out thing that tends to happen more than any other. I'm not too familiar with AC, I've just charged mine in the Honda and ripped it out in the 240... everything else I would probably leave to a pro.

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billabong093
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Just picked up another 240, trying to diagnose a problem. When im driving the car and i fully let off the gas i hear what sounds like a scraping noise. It sounds similar to what i would imagine a fender liner dragging as you drive sounds like, but theres absolutely nothing dragging. Any idea what the problem could be?

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speedeast
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billabong093 wrote:Just picked up another 240, trying to diagnose a problem. When im driving the car and i fully let off the gas i hear what sounds like a scraping noise. It sounds similar to what i would imagine a fender liner dragging as you drive sounds like, but theres absolutely nothing dragging. Any idea what the problem could be?
Can you get a sound clip? Is it just while driving, or does it make the sound when not in motion?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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It could be something drivetrain/powertrain related. When you let off the throttle, you esentially start engine breaking, which will torque your drive line in a different direction than under throttle. Just a theory.

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Dire91
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I'm freaking out and need help! I just started my car and the hood started popping up and down so I immediatly shut it off. I open the hood and I don't know what cylinder this is but the 2nd from the front the spark plug wire popped out with the spark plug still attached to it. I know that isn't suppose to happen, is that very bad?

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PyR0NiAk
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Dire91 wrote:I'm freaking out and need help! I just started my car and the hood started popping up and down so I immediatly shut it off. I open the hood and I don't know what cylinder this is but the 2nd from the front the spark plug wire popped out with the spark plug still attached to it. I know that isn't suppose to happen, is that very bad?
Whoa... Ford Explorer's use to be BAD about that s***. You can do a temp fix with a hemocoil, but you're going to need to do a head swap eventually. At least if it did what I think it did and blew the threads out for the spark plug.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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yeah, look for shavings and stuff... its possible whoever put them in just didn't torque it down correctly, which is a good thing, cos it might have just worked its way out. If that's the case, it should just thread back in.

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aznSF
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Where can I order new 97 240sx power steering pump? or there are rebuild ones only? how much for new and how much for rebuild one? Thanks!!

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PyR0NiAk
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Try autozone... Courtesy Parts asks 400+ for an oem one..

http://www.courtesyparts.com/49110-pump ... 38031.html

Autozone charges a little over 160 with a core..

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speedeast
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Dealer only...

Reman: $140 autopartswarehouse.com
Dealer: $430 everythingnissan.com

It would be stupid not to get a reman. pump.

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GaMBiTx
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hi,
when driving for a while, the pedal area and leg area gets pretty hot, is this normal ? anything i should check?

also , any ideas where to mount the megan fpr & its bracket on a KA24e

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Dire91
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:yeah, look for shavings and stuff... its possible whoever put them in just didn't torque it down correctly, which is a good thing, cos it might have just worked its way out. If that's the case, it should just thread back in.
Yea it just worked its way out, it screwed back in very nicely and is running again. Two questions, how can I tell if one cylinder isn't firing? and also anyone know where I can find torque specs for instance on spark plugs?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Well, the car will run rough if its not firing on one cylinder. You can try pulling out that spark plug wire from the dizzy or the plug and seeing if the idle/way it runs changes to pinpoint a misfiring cylinder. Torque specs would be in the FSM (link in my sig y0!).

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PapaSmurf2k3
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oh yeah, and be careful you don't electrocute yourself when pulling out the wire. You could also pull the connector off of the fuel injector.

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PyR0NiAk
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:You could also pull the connector off of the fuel injector.
That is freaking brilliant, and makes me feel like a complete idiot. I still remember getting lit up working on my Beretta when I was 16 trying to find a bad coil pack. Never thought of just pulling the injector plugs

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speedeast
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GaMBiTx wrote:hi,
when driving for a while, the pedal area and leg area gets pretty hot, is this normal ? anything i should check?

also , any ideas where to mount the megan fpr & its bracket on a KA24e
Is there an exhaust leak in that area or has that sheet metal guard fallen off or been removed?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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GaMBiTx wrote:hi,
when driving for a while, the pedal area and leg area gets pretty hot, is this normal ? anything i should check?

also , any ideas where to mount the megan fpr & its bracket on a KA24e

Yeah my pedal area gets pretty warm too. That's just where the exhaust is routed. You could try putting header wrap on your front pipe/downpipe.

I'm not sure about the SOHC, but I mounted my FPR right to the intake manifold. When I removed my stock fuel bracketry, there were a bunch of open threaded spots :)
A simple L-bracket took care of the rest.

Yasko
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Is there a noticeable difference between brands strut bars? I have been looking at the Greddy ones for $125 each, (S14) and I was wondering if anyone has had them? Main thing I'm worried about is fitment issues. Granted their made for my car.

http://www.frsport.com/GReddy-14023009- ... _1550.html
http://www.frsport.com/Greddy-14023010- ... _1551.html

Edit: Also if I but the front Greddy strut bar will that also work for a S14 w/ SR20 swap or will it only work for the KA?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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not sure as to noticeable differences, but yes, it will fit the SR20 as well as the KA. It doesn't actually touch any part of either one of them.


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