Thanks bud..however I have tried that, no avail. Even turning the key on and off to “prime it” hasn’t helped either. I hear the fuel pump slightly when turning the key though. It doesn’t look as easy of a job as I imagined, so I’m hoping that if I go that route, that’s the fix. Can’t be much harder than removing the 8 injectors lol.Ludeaem wrote: ↑Mon Dec 14, 2020 3:44 pmIf you ever find out the long crank after warm issue be sure to make a post. As I've mentioned in a previous post I have the same issue but the remedy is just to turn the key to ACC and wait until the 'brake' light comes on in the dash and it starts as it should.
My advice, just do that unless you want to dump hundreds, if not thousands of $ into this 20+ year old car. Some things you just have to deal with and be glad its road worthy. You won't win every battle. Deep breath man
Yeah i mentioned earlier i replaced the crankshaft sensor (one under the engine not far from the passengers side oxygen sensor) on my last oil change, it didn't fix it. Now if you refer to camshaft sensor on the front near the air intake, i didn't do that. And that is an expensive part.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Mon Dec 14, 2020 5:12 pmDon't know if you've ever put a crank sensor in it, but that's the most likely culprit for a long crank with no codes. When those sensors get magnetically-weak, they become bouncy or flatline at low RPM (cranking) but normalize as soon as the engine fires and the extra RPM increases reluctance. That problem will tend to worsen when the sensor is warm, especially when the sensor sits on a "cooking" engine with no airflow for about 30 minutes. The ECM will hold off firing when it sees an erratic crank signal, but after about 5 seconds it will say the heck with it and start on the cams alone. Because the crank signal recovers immediately when it fires, you get no codes.
As for the airbag, once the ACU throws a code, it will remember it forever even if the code goes "past". ACU codes don't clear after a certain number of cycles with no error like engine or tranny codes. So you need to get the codes read and find out what it saw. On a vehicle that old, there's a good chance you'll find driver airbag "open" codes. They may be "past", but clearing them won't help because it won't be the airbag that's at fault. It will be your aged spiral cable causing the issue, and if so, they'll keep recurring till you replace the spiral.
You lost me here...I don’t really have those type of testers. When you say bad ground, you refer to the sensor or the engine as a whole?VStar650CL wrote: ↑Mon Dec 14, 2020 8:10 pmPossibly, yes. Check the quality of your grounds, too. As little as 50 millivolts (0.05V) can make Hall sensors misread and fail. Use a voltage drop test to check dynamically, both from the negative-post to the block and negative post to the sensor ground pins (backprobe the connectors). To run the test, put your VOM on the lowest voltage scale and start the engine, and put the common probe on the negative post (not the lug, the post). Put the red probe anyplace on the block. Anything above 0.05V and your ground cable is corroded someplace. Then measure to the backprobes in the sensors, if they're much higher than the reading at the block then the individual sensor grounds are crappy.
Both, and all you need is a common voltmeter, nothing fancy. $8 from Harbor Freight will work fine.
Wow, that’s still pretty technical for me lol. I’m just not versed on electric stuff. Most of my diagnosis have been straightforward stuff, and I’ve not needed those things. But what you’re saying is certainly pointing me in the right direction. At this point, I don’t think it’s the fuel pump after all. Like I say, I replaced the crankshaft sensor... but didn’t help.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Tue Dec 15, 2020 6:44 amBoth, and all you need is a common voltmeter, nothing fancy. $8 from Harbor Freight will work fine.
How good a ground any device needs depends on how much current it draws. That's why checking grounds dynamically, with the engine running, tells you much more than an ohmmeter. Coils, for instance, draw a lot, and the ones Nissan uses with built-in transistors react very badly to "soft" grounds, it makes them heat up. This is what the famous "warty" coils come from, as well as the myth that coils fail in groups. They don't. When groups fail, it's invariably from crummy grounds.
The negative battery post is the "ultimate source" for all grounds on the car, so that's what you're measuring relative to. Ohm's Law says the more resistance you have between a device and the negative post, the higher the voltage you'll read between the device and the post. So the reading between the block and the post tells you the relative health of all the connections in between, automatically accounting for however much current your particular engine consumes. Even a tiny amount of resistance in your main ground cable can cause an unhealthy "soft" ground. 50mV is usually considered to be the healthy limit; applying Ohm's Law to an engine that consumes 10 amps, we get 0.05V / 10A = 0.005 ohms. Five thousandths of an ohm, that's all it takes to give your ECM a headache. That's also why an ohmmeter won't tell you anything meaningful, unless it's a very good meter.
The same principle applies to the thinner wires and connections that carry ground to the sensors, so checking them is important when looking at sensor issues. We had a Murano in the shop some years back that had "eaten" the original crank sensor and two replacements in the space of 18 months. The ground finally got checked when the owner started screaming, and we found 63mV between the connector and the block. The small wire connecting the sensor to the block had gone south and was blowing up the output transistors in the sensors. That sensor was only drawing about 12 milliamps, so a measly 5 ohms in the small wire was all it took to blow it. The car was out of warranty, so we spliced a shorter wire direct to the tranny housing. It never had another problem. Lesson learned.
Yeah, I think I may have to consult one of my mechanics on this one. But that’s going to involve setting an appointment, and spending MORE money. s*** that I already f*** did last week: $136 labor at one place for power steering pump, and $180 for all rear brakes+calipers at another. I just wish the s*** would just work lol. I’ve been maintaining it meticulously, obviously just wear and tear and previous ownership demons lol.