I will check the orange pin 24 tomorrow. Thank you.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 7:20 pmJust checked the FSM, the hood switch wire is Orange on pin 24 at the IPDM, just two pins up from the Brown alternator wire on 22.
I will check the orange pin 24 tomorrow. Thank you.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 7:20 pmJust checked the FSM, the hood switch wire is Orange on pin 24 at the IPDM, just two pins up from the Brown alternator wire on 22.
hopefully you unplugged the battery before you started disconnecting wires or else you might have shorted something, which is very easy to do in this car.denbigh97 wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 8:30 pmI will check the orange pin 24 tomorrow. Thank you.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 7:20 pmJust checked the FSM, the hood switch wire is Orange on pin 24 at the IPDM, just two pins up from the Brown alternator wire on 22.
I did make sure to disconnect the battery before I opened the IPDM. I don't think there is enough space to even remove/open the IPDM without taking out the battery?Yoda's Master wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 9:34 pmhopefully you unplugged the battery before you started disconnecting wires or else you might have shorted something, which is very easy to do in this car.
ok. it's been a few years since i did the mod so I don't remember the lack of space.denbigh97 wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 10:56 pmI did make sure to disconnect the battery before I opened the IPDM. I don't think there is enough space to even remove/open the IPDM without taking out the battery?Yoda's Master wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 9:34 pm
hopefully you unplugged the battery before you started disconnecting wires or else you might have shorted something, which is very easy to do in this car.
Yes, I took the car to a local garage and was told the low voltage from the old battery triggered the error code in the BCM. They were able to clear the codes in the BCM. I will pick the car up tomorrow.Yoda's Master wrote: ↑Thu May 26, 2022 8:24 pmok. it's been a few years since i did the mod so I don't remember the lack of space.
Did you get it figured out?
Thanks for the update ibc, I find that really intriguing. Although I must say I'm not surprised by the outcome.ibc wrote: ↑Mon Aug 08, 2022 8:25 amAfter replacing my starter motor, all my battery/alternator problems magically disappeared. Turns out it wasn't the charging system at all. I think the original starter motor was weak and it drew WAY too much from the battery, so no-start was a regular occurrence. So I had to keep my battery at 100%, not 95%. But my new starter motor has way more oomph, and starts on 1st button press, no matter what. The battery charge is no longer a concern. I now trust this car.
EdBwoy wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 10:26 pmI am not saying that the smart alternator disable mod is the cause of the click-no-start. The issues might be related, but I am trying to find out how. I am trying to see if something in the starter circuit causes the click-no-start issue. And whether this circuit problem is what is discharging batteries.
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There's some production variance involved with that, but the 12.6V standard is for a new battery with a tip-top charge. Anything 12.4V or above is generally healthy, but bear in mind that the battery needs to be disconnected from the car and then sit for several hours before float voltage really means anything. When the battery is connected to the car there's always a tiny amount of discharge going on (usually around 30 milliamps for an Armada) which will tend to drag down the float level as soon as the car is shut off.
Yep. NDS-III doesn't give full functions on a lot of stuff past about '16, and it may not be able to read your '18 properly. I don't know of any other "cheap out" for getting the ECM p/n. However, it occurs to me that NTB20-021 was a recall, not a bulletin. So you should be able to run your VIN through NHTSA to see if it's an outstanding recall for your ride. If it isn't, then it was either already performed or the vehicle didn't have the faulty firmware in the first place.Droid wrote: ↑Sun Sep 18, 2022 10:41 amSo I got my Bluetooth adapter and NDSIII shows it's connected to the ECM but it doesn't display anything for the ECM part number. A different app displays the ECM control ID, but that's it. Am I probably out of luck for the part number except for the dealer, or a better scanner? Thanks.